Driveshaft input needed

[exvitermini2]

Doing an e39 lm7/4l80 with a 7675. M5 rear diff and axles. Also my 4l80 currently has a bolt on yoke..which I think I read you can use a th400 slipyoke and go?

I've read all the threads you guys have generously put forth. Mad props to you for paving the way and much appreciation for all the input! I dont want to beat a dead horse but it seemed like everyone went a different direction.

Way I see it I have 3 options, just unsure which is the best and there also may be another way that I'm not thinking of.

1) buy m5 driveshaft(500 bones..ouch), modify front with a slipyoke

2) buy 540 driveshaft(200ish) shorten rear section about an inch, modify front for slipyoke

3) sonnax 6bolt to 1350 joint, one piece shaft with slipyoke at trans

The 1 piece I think would be cheapest and easiest, however NVH is a concern that I might run into?

E36lsx I did we used a 1 piece shaft and it's been fine to about 150mph. My e36 racecar with a mitsu/Toyota driveline I just had a yota slipyoke put on(by my guy and fleet pride locally) the stock 2 piece and it's been fine to about 160mph.

Thanks in advance for any input offered.

[Bluebimma]

Single piece is great if you set it up correctly. I’m using inland 1350 chrome moly quick release slip yoke for my 6.0tt 4l80e setup to e60 m5 diff.


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[unnatrl]

I did the slip yoke, Sonnax flange and single piece shaft (6.0 & 4L80e). The only issue I had to take care of was transmission and differential angles. My trans was sitting too low and the differential pinion flange was pointing up (too high). The driveline angles are critical when you use a standard style u-joint. The BMW cv style joint is very forgiving when it comes to angles.

If you are going forced induction, take the time and do the single piece. It is more expensive and takes much more effort to setup, but you will know it’s done correctly. Critical mass will come into play at some point, discuss this with who builds the shaft. You won’t have any luck getting more than a 3” diameter shaft to clear the fuel tank. Trust me, I thought I was going to be the exception because I had to drop the pinion angle. Joke was on me...

The 2 piece (modified 6 speed) that I originally used had crazy vibration on hard initial acceleration. The brand new carrier bearing was deflecting a lot. I tried the old school window weld trick to shore up the bearing and had no luck there. The vibration felt like wheel hop. It was 100% gone when I went with the 1 piece driveline. Naturally aspirated would probably be fine with this setup.

[exvitermini2]

Awesome, thanks for the info guys!

Unnatrl what mount setup were you using?

[unnatrl]

Jesus freak mounts with a set of E30 poly 24v swap isolators and a stock style trans mount.

[exvitermini2]

Awesome, I will be utilizing his mount kit as well.

I ordered the sonnax slip yoke and piece for the diff. I'll have my local guy make me a 3" steel shaft once I get it all bolted in and measured up.

Thanks!