BMW x3 issue front end

[rdigvonni@gmail]

2014 BMW x3 28i awd
I have a BMW X3 28i 56000 miles that keeps making a clicking noise when turning the wheel either direction. Also it sort of jumps as if the brakes were on and it can't go. Only when the wheel is turned. It does this in reverse and drive whether accelerating or not. NO service light has come on. We have already replaced both CV axles and it did nothing for this issue. Can anyone help

[328 Power 04]

If I understand your explanation correctly, the front wheels behave as if they were tied together, and not allowed to spin independently of each other when turning?

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I have seen a similar sounding issue when the transfer case actuator/module was stuck on actuating the transfer case clutches too much.

[rdigvonni@gmail]

It's like I'm trying to drive with the emergency brake engaged. It feels like the wheels are slipping as they turn and making that popping noise. I can post video when I get home today.

[328 Power 04]

When turned a little or to the max?

[rdigvonni@gmail]

It does it both, when turned a little and turned all the way right or left.

[dworthy]

Have to ask:

BMW half-shaft or some Chinese made rebuild?

[rdigvonni@gmail]

Have to ask:

BMW half-shaft or some Chinese made rebuild?

They are both used BMW parts

[dworthy]

What it sounds like to me that the hubs are locked, which seems odd as BMW doesn't have locking hubs. So I would double check your work, as it seems one of the half-shafts is binding. Is there any free play with the shafts? I.E. Do they slide back and forth 1/2 inch or so?

[Critter7r]

Transfer-case-induced wheel hop is pretty common at anything more than freeway-curve turning angles.

[White94RX]

I'm going to agree that it sounds like a transfer case

[328 Power 04]

Want to try a quick test, forcing the vehicle on rwd only, temporarily? And attempt a drive then?

*Warning this test will trigger lot of lights temporarily. I would much rather you have some sort of diagnostics capabilities. It involves unplugging the transfer case module at an easy to reach connector under the hood.
Since the transfer case module is on the flexray network, you will get abs/dsc, airbag, steering module, and transmission lights at that time.

But it would disable the transfer case from attempting 4wd, and should free up the front wheels. When you plug it in and cycle ignition, it *should* get back to normal.

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When turning, the normal behavior of the transfer case is to leave the front wheels out of the driveline...
The front differential is a locked differential design, and all the wheel speed difference gets transferred into the front driveshaft and the transfer case should allow it to spin a bit more freely.



Alternatively, for a test you can disconnect front driveshaft, and save yourself some error lights.

[Critter7r]

unplugging the actuator is a common test procedure. If the hop goes away, you've found your culprit.

[328 Power 04]

X3 test.png

Unplug X13*1B, the one on the bottom.

[rdigvonni@gmail]

Want to try a quick test, forcing the vehicle on rwd only, temporarily? And attempt a drive then?

*Warning this test will trigger lot of lights temporarily. I would much rather you have some sort of diagnostics capabilities. It involves unplugging the transfer case module at an easy to reach connector under the hood.
Since the transfer case module is on the flexray network, you will get abs/dsc, airbag, steering module, and transmission lights at that time.

But it would disable the transfer case from attempting 4wd, and should free up the front wheels. When you plug it in and cycle ignition, it *should* get back to normal.

- - - Updated - - -

When turning, the normal behavior of the transfer case is to leave the front wheels out of the driveline...
The front differential is a locked differential design, and all the wheel speed difference gets transferred into the front driveshaft and the transfer case should allow it to spin a bit more freely.



Alternatively, for a test you can disconnect front driveshaft, and save yourself some error lights.

I'm going to try this. I wanted to do video, but it got really cold yesterday so hopefully I can do that today. Thank you all for the comments you have no idea how helpful this is. I'm afraid to even try to drive the car to a repair shop.

[rdigvonni@gmail]

I'm going to try this. I wanted to do video, but it got really cold yesterday so hopefully I can do that today. Thank you all for the comments you have no idea how helpful this is. I'm afraid to even try to drive the car to a repair shop.

[rdigvonni@gmail]

Want to try a quick test, forcing the vehicle on rwd only, temporarily? And attempt a drive then?

*Warning this test will trigger lot of lights temporarily. I would much rather you have some sort of diagnostics capabilities. It involves unplugging the transfer case module at an easy to reach connector under the hood.
Since the transfer case module is on the flexray network, you will get abs/dsc, airbag, steering module, and transmission lights at that time.

But it would disable the transfer case from attempting 4wd, and should free up the front wheels. When you plug it in and cycle ignition, it *should* get back to normal.

- - - Updated - - -

When turning, the normal behavior of the transfer case is to leave the front wheels out of the driveline...
The front differential is a locked differential design, and all the wheel speed difference gets transferred into the front driveshaft and the transfer case should allow it to spin a bit more freely.



Alternatively, for a test you can disconnect front driveshaft, and save yourself some error lights.

So we disconnected the transfer case module and drove it and it the problem is gone. That being said what is the next step to fix the problem.

[328 Power 04]

Having good BMW diagnostics software is next.

I would first try to run the current transfer case module calibration, but that calibration isn't guaranteed to last.

Probably replacing the transfer case module/actuator would be next. You can put the module used ($50-200) from any xdrive 3/4 series (F3x), 5 series (F10), or 7 series (F01). Try to keep it from around your year or newer. That or new ($1000+).

Then it has to be programmed, coded, and calibrated. That's where you really need bmw diagnostics available.

Do you have a Windows laptop?

[328 Power 04]

A very inexpensive example https://www.ebay.com/itm/192698983911

Or https://www.ebay.com/itm/254063048046
Be aware, it will need programming.


*There is a chance that your transfer case has failed mechanically internally* but I wouldn't jump to that yet.

[rdigvonni@gmail]

Yes I do have a windows computer. How can I get the diagnostics to do all of the required steps.

[328 Power 04]

You need an ENET cable first, and the rest has a high learning curve.
May have to do a lot of it remotely.

Are you a shop, or is this a personal car?

[rdigvonni@gmail]

Personal vehicle. Do you mean an ethernet cable.

[328 Power 04]

It's a special OBD cable for F chassis cars, called ENET. It's a sort of Ethernet cable adapted to the car. It's necessary for the programming and diagnosing with factory programs.

[rdigvonni@gmail]

It's a special OBD cable for F chassis cars, called ENET. It's a sort of Ethernet cable adapted to the car. It's necessary for the programming and diagnosing with factory programs.

Can you please send a link on where to buy this so I make sure to get the right item.

[328 Power 04]

Is your username your correct email?

[rdigvonni@gmail]

Is your username your correct email?

Yes it is my correct email. Thank you!