02 540iT trans problems

[danmurphymn]

My car just turned over 232k. An hour ago I backed out of the garage, shifted into manumatic gear 1 and nothing happened. It didn't go into manual mode. I drove it around the block and it feel like it's stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. I just went around the block and didn't take it on the road.
I ran my cheapo scanner on it and came up with a P1832 code pending.

Any thoughts on where to start?

I've owned the car since 219k. Searching of the PO's records showed he brought it to a mechanic for tranny service around 200k and was told it's all good (no further details).

Help me with an easy fix! I was just about to order a wood lathe for the shop. If I have to spends lots on the tranny, I probably won't get approval for the lathe from the household financial committee!

[danmurphymn]

Update: I drove the car again and everything is fine.
In my searching I found possibly a few other connected issues?
Recently my key has been finickey in the ignition. It doesn't normally turn right away so I normally have to pull it out, turn it around and try again to get the key to work.
My voltage while driving is 13v. I know that battery voltage can cause trans problems. Just not sure if these are connected at all...

[CPHES]

How old is the battery? I’d look there first, but 232k miles is a lot. 9 times around the earth, and it’s a 5hp24. I have a 99, with 212k, so I get where you are.

[danmurphymn]

How old is the battery? I’d look there first, but 232k miles is a lot. 9 times around the earth, and it’s a 5hp24. I have a 99, with 212k, so I get where you are.

I don't recall how old the battery is off the top of my head but I think it's less than 2 years old.

[CPHES]

Get to Autozone with it, let them load test it for you - rule that out. Checking the fluid level is a pain, but you need to rule that out too.

[geargrinder]

Please always post text for codes.

Otherwise you're just asking anybody who wants to help to have to google it and hope they get the right thing. Do people think everybody has memorized every P code there is?

P1832 seems to be a cordless Ryobi impact driver, so, I'd try charging up the batteries for it, and make sure the forward/reverse switch isn't in the 'locked' position. Eventually the batteries on those die so you might want to buy another one.



- - - Updated - - -

Get to Autozone with it, let them load test it for you - rule that out. Checking the fluid level is a pain, but you need to rule that out too.

Agreed. It was 4F here yesterday, I imagine in MN it must have been -37F. Was the battery possible ice cold and low on volts yesterday?

The actual code looks solenoid related, so, could be indeed that that old slushbox is ready to poop out. Or could be the cold weather low voltage caused poor solenoid activation.

Was fluid ever changed or did somebody drink the "never change the fluid or the tranny will assplode when you take the dirt out!?!?!?" kool-aid...?

FWIW with "limp mode" stuff like that its always worth a try to shut down and restart... did you try that when it was acting up? That can resolve an issue if on first start there was a low voltage 'moment' that caused a glitch but now the alternator is making good power and all is well...

[danmurphymn]

Please always post text for codes.

Agreed. It was 4F here yesterday, I imagine in MN it must have been -37F. Was the battery possible ice cold and low on volts yesterday?

The actual code looks solenoid related, so, could be indeed that that old slushbox is ready to poop out. Or could be the cold weather low voltage caused poor solenoid activation.

Was fluid ever changed or did somebody drink the "never change the fluid or the tranny will assplode when you take the dirt out!?!?!?" kool-aid...?

FWIW with "limp mode" stuff like that its always worth a try to shut down and restart... did you try that when it was acting up? That can resolve an issue if on first start there was a low voltage 'moment' that caused a glitch but now the alternator is making good power and all is well...

Gah, thanks for the feedback on the code text!

The car has been driving fine now. I didn't try re-starting it at that moment, but the next time I drove it everything was fine. It was around 0F yesterday, but it was parked in the garage. I think I'll try to limp it along and do a fluid / filter change once it gets a bit warmer out.
The previous owners records were not extremely detailed so I'm not sure if the tranny fluid & filter was changed at 200k or not.

[geargrinder]

thumbsupemoji.

If it does act up again, take note of temperature, and after warming it up for a minute or two try a restart. If that works then it is either voltage-blip, or, potentially the temp causing a mechanical failure in the tranny (say... ice cold gunk sticking up the solenoid for instance)

[danmurphymn]

Okay, car went back into Trans Fail Safe mode again a few days ago. I haven't driven it since and it has been extremely cold here. Below zero for most of the week but the car has been in the garage.
Today I tried again. I plugged my cheapo odb tool into it and the car read 10.2V before I started it and 12.8V after I started.
It's a Deka battery from 2/17. I've heard these are some of the best batteries.

I'm going to try charging the battery to see if that solves the problem.

Any other thoughts or anything else I'm missing?

[mattmar1]

10.2 vdc is basically a dead battery. 12.8 volts running doesnt tell you much when your battery is that low. yes fully charge the battery, then reread the battery voltage and the engine running voltage.

[JimLev]

I'm surprised the engine even started with the battery at 10.2v
If your going to keep the car for another 5+ years get a NAPA Legend battery. Mine is now 10.5 years old and still working fine.

[danmurphymn]

So... Those voltage readings were from my cheapie odbII tool. I checked the battery directly and was at 12.8 (I think) sitting. 13.8 (I think) running. I ran the car for 10 minutes, shut it off, started it back up and my trans goes back into manual mode so I think it's fine.
I borrowed my neighbors charger and the battery was definitely low and is charging overnight.

Here's my best guess on what happened.
I must have a battery drain somewhere. That combined with the cold weather caused the trans failsafe mode early last week. I drove it again the next day and it was fine. Mid last week it was super cold, like -8 and it went into trans failsafe again. I decided to work from home the rest of the week so the battery didn't get charged from driving.

[Chedley]

Time to buy a basic battery charger/maintainer. It costs only $20 at HomeDepot....

[geargrinder]

Here's my best guess on what happened.
I must have a battery drain somewhere. That combined with the cold weather caused the trans failsafe mode early last week. I drove it again the next day and it was fine. Mid last week it was super cold, like -8 and it went into trans failsafe again. I decided to work from home the rest of the week so the battery didn't get charged from driving.

I think you're onto it. Or at least what next step is. A 2yr old battery should be fine. Cold alone shouldn't cause enough battery affect, but could be exacerbating the symptoms of a drain. Now just to check all the usual suspects for mystery drain: hood switch, FSU, ignition switch, water in passenger footwell fuse area...

[Chedley]

Yes, the thing with keeping a battery fully charged maintained, is that it can easily mask a small "mystery" drain...I hook up may battery charger/maintainer overnight at least once a week.
With these cars, sometimes ignorance is a bliss. "What you don't know cannot hurt you"...ROFL.. :-)