Getting ready to swap the ZF 4HP 24 transmission in the my 850 this upcoming weekend.
Any great tips for getting to the top Bellhousing bolts?
Other than a Long Extension?
very long extension is the easiest.
'91 Dinan 860 Stage III (new 6L engine)
'91 Dinan 850 TT stage III (brand new engine) 21st Century Tech meets 18th Century Dinan...
'91 850i 6sp (mint) (sold)
'90 Dinan 750iL TT stage III (Guido - The Beast)
'94 850 CSi The Detroit Auto Show car (restored to factory perfect) (sold)
'96 850Ci, The George Carlin car
''73 3.0 csi, '08 535i, '03 X5 4.6is
...and a few other non BMW cars
As Cartoonz stated, very long extension and some patience.
it helps to disconnect everything and drop the rear of the transmission down before trying to attack those bolts.
You'll find the if you play around with where the different length extensions that you put together makes a bit of a difference on how easily you can line up the socket with the bolt heads too. Surprisingly, with the rear of the tranny lowered just a bit, you can reach the bolt heats with your fingers on one hand to guide the socket on.
'91 Dinan 860 Stage III (new 6L engine)
'91 Dinan 850 TT stage III (brand new engine) 21st Century Tech meets 18th Century Dinan...
'91 850i 6sp (mint) (sold)
'90 Dinan 750iL TT stage III (Guido - The Beast)
'94 850 CSi The Detroit Auto Show car (restored to factory perfect) (sold)
'96 850Ci, The George Carlin car
''73 3.0 csi, '08 535i, '03 X5 4.6is
...and a few other non BMW cars
If you remove the fan and unbolt the engine and guibo, you can tip it up quite a bit. Access to those top bolts would be much easier with an engine hoist. Or perhaps a jack under the front of the engine.
I should explain a little further. I have an 840, so perhaps your experience will differ. I just put my engine/transmission as a unit back into my car after a long rebuild. As I was easing everything into position, I saw that with the engine on its mounts, the transmission tilted down as expected. But if I lifted the engine just enough to clear the mount bolts, the transmission tilted WAY down.
Brett
Last edited by ltbrett; 01-24-2019 at 11:10 AM.
Be sure NOT and i mean Not! turn the engine the wrong direction when searching and lining up the Torque converter bolts.
Clockwise and I am going to avoid the fan and shroud unless I need it.
I would remove the fan, When you tilt the engine, I've seen it sometimes try and poke at the Radiator, Just keep your eye on it's distance when you lower the rear of the trans.
I pulled the fan, made it easier to get to bolt on crank to get the torque converter bolts out.
There is a surprising amount of room with the trans tipped down. Not really that far.
Had to pull out most of the insulation, it was rotted and in the way, it will be getting replaced.
Got all of the bell housing bolts out but one on the mid left. Having problems getting extension on it. Might loosen the exhaust downpipe for additional clearance.
I will get back to it
Got it out, Had to rip out more Insulation was the problem, replaced with some Cool Mat, made sure to leave sunroof drain holes open, now on to replacing front Pump seal and rear seal just because it is easy now, Transmission was a Reman, car has 185K Miles, no idea how many miles were on this one
Trans R and R VI.jpgTrans Insulation.jpgTrans Tunnel.jpg
Good job, I like it and it's the only post in the E31 section with pictures removing the 4HP24
Drop the Rear of the Exhaust, support with Jack, Remove center mounts Pull out O2 Sensors
IMG_20190209_100504.jpg
Unbolt the front and Drag it out, Helps to have a friend. Heat Shields are rusted, Replacements are available, I am going to wrap them with Exhaust wrap. Transmission Mount was Trashed from the Upper Oil Pan Gasket LeakIMG_20190112_101715.jpgIMG_20190112_101653.jpgIMG_20190112_112252.jpgIMG_20190112_123159.jpg
You have to remove the starter, Fan is optional, I needed to, Insulation was trashed and got in the way and was replaced with Cool Mat. You have to Disconnect Shifter, and Electronics cable on the other side. Get the torque converter bolts from the front thru the hole. Crank the motor clockwise to get to the next one. Two Bolts on the top of the bell housing are smaller Male Torx. I cracked them all off with a breaker bar and long extension and spun them out with an Air Ratchet
Replaced all the insulation with Cool Mat, Leave the drains open on both sides, you can stick you finger in them.
I like the insulation upgrade, seems like so many of these cars have pieces missing or insulation rubbing on driveline. The cool mat should provide more protection too and be thinner than factory
Can you provide information on which cool mat used?
Regards,
Brian
Cave Creek, AZ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PILLZG
And some Metal Tape that you use for Ductwork to finish the seams
rjjablo, i see you removed at least 2 down pipes..... just out of curiosity , do they also have that overschoot material on the "cup joints " ?
On my car i had 3 with overschoot to dia 36 mm and 1 which was butt welded and kept the pipe dia of 41 mm less some welding metal on the inside.
the same…. yes, it is 36 mm , i measured it with a hole saw that just fit . Strange for a "down" tube of 41 mm. But as John said, they went to 500HP ( FI ) with those pipes…. i drilled them out but it shouldn't be a bottleneck after all.
thanks !
Got the Transmission in today, Put Torque converter on and slide until it just slides in. Cannot get car high enough to clear both Trans Jack with Transmission on it. Slide it underneath, Jack up back of trans and put a 2X4 under front and jack it up until I could get trans jack underneath it. Wiggle and move and align, and loosen and move etc until it goes clunk and its together. Put in 4 bottom bolts, easy. 4 Top Bolts, Less easy but not difficult with long extension. Two for the starter, not hooked up yet so easy. Discover that the two on the opposite side of the starter had a nut on the block side that are lost since I spun them off with an air ratchet.
i admire you guys without a lift..... i'm to old for working on the ground.
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