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Thread: Is CCV system pro-active replacement necessary? (no issues on m52 in my 2000 528i)

  1. #1
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    Is CCV system pro-active replacement necessary? (no issues on m52 in my 2000 528i)

    I'm the original owner of my 2000 528i, looking for preventive maintenance advice. About 90,000 mixed-use miles, southern car, always garaged. M52 runs great, zero oil consumption and zero smoking issues.

    I had read a few threads on this significant failure and thought maybe I'd replace the CCV and the associated hoses while the car's sidelined for ABS module repair. Bought the parts, but upon reading several DIY threads it appears to be a fairly big job and I'm pondering waiting a while.

    Any recommendations from you experts out there? Just go ahead, or check something before deciding? Some engine performance issue that'd I'd see if it was needed? I suppose some of the hoses and fittings have suffered from 18 years of heating and cooling. Don't want to risk an abrupt, major failure, but I'm not into "practice bleeding" or screwing up a car that's running ok either .

    Your thoughts are welcome. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Your system is the same version oil separator that was used from late 98 production. Replace the hoses and parts. For those who have higher mileage cars I would ALWAYS recommend a complete system overhaul especially those who live in the rust belt. Short drives, cold temps, poor oil change frequency history = total failure, not if it will occur only WHEN will it occur. Easy 2 hr job. You do not have to replace all the little seals and the throttle body unless you suspect vacuum leaks in those areas. Replace the little O rings on your dip stick tube as well.
    O-ring 9mmX2.2mm 2 Qty from 09/1998 production date PN: 11431717666



    No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number
    01 Pressure regulating valve 1 09/1998 11617501566
    02 Vent pipe 1 09/1998 11611432559
    03 Connecting line 1 11/1998 01/2000 11611440317
    04 Vent hose 1 09/1998 11157532649
    05 Screw K60X22 2 09/1998 11617533331
    06 Vacuum hose black 3,5X1,8 X 09/1998 11727545323
    07 Return pipe 1 11/1998 01/2000 11157520035
    08 Hose clamp L12-15 1 11/1998 01/2000 07129952104


    Insight from Real OEM
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...BMW-528i&mg=11

    FCP Video
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...1566kt2#video0


    Helpful?
    Last edited by StephenVA; 01-21-2019 at 04:15 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Thanks, Steven. That's encouraging. The threads I'd read talk around 8 hours labor and removing most everything on the airbox side of the engine to access the separator and hoses. The parts you list are mostly what I've got on hand. Got any thread links to a good procedure? Is this any quicker from underneath with car up on a lift?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by GAflyer View Post
    Thanks, Steven. That's encouraging. The threads I'd read talk around 8 hours labor and removing most everything on the airbox side of the engine to access the separator and hoses. The parts you list are mostly what I've got on hand. Got any thread links to a good procedure? Is this any quicker from underneath with car up on a lift?
    I just updated my response with a few video links. Lots more up on the DIY threads.
    Current Garage Highlights
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  5. #5
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    took me around 3 hrs to replace mine, not a bad job, on my 99 528i

  6. #6
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    I don't want to go crazy with mission creep, but I would be surprised if your 90k '00 528i doesn't need a new oil filter housing gasket (OFHG) as well. The original gasket hardens with engine cycles/age not mileage. If you are on the original gasket, its only a matter of time before it starts to leak. The good thing is that when you remove the Oil filter housing, your access to the CCV is much better. Please read up on the OFHG procedure, but be sure to get a piece of cardboard to remember where each of the 6 OFHG bolts go as they are different sizes. you must also be careful not to over tighten those bolts as it will strip and cause a major headache. . The torque spec for the 6 bolts is 16 ft lbs. I do it by hand with a 1/4 inch ratchet.

  7. #7
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    If you are not having problems I'd leave it alone. If you need to remove the intake or OFH as mentioned above then you are foolish not to.
    If anything the OFH gasket would be the proactive item to do, these ALWAYS fail. So, while you are there....
    Did someone say mission creep?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  8. #8
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    Appreciate the advice guys. "Mission creep" in this case isn't necessarily bad, as the plastic and rubber parts in our cars undeniably degrade over the years. Hence, my replacement of all engine cooling system components a while back. Being pro-active helps us keep beautiful older cars on the road. My one-and-only oil leak ever (well, on this BMW anyway--'88 M6 is another story) was from that OFH gasket several years ago, and it was dealt with then. If I'd considered the CCV repair back then, I might have tackled it at the time. My car has no symptoms associated with the CCV issue, and I'm a little worried that in the process on disconnecting so many plastic fittings and electrical connectors, that one of them that may be just a little brittle right now will end up broken and require replacement. Right now, nothings broke...kinda don't want to create a problem where none exists.

    Rob

  9. #9
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    In my experiences the plastic hoses are only good for about 100K or a little more, but I've never actually had the CCV itself go bad. So I'd do the hoses now but skip the CCV. Not a 15 minute job, but not really a big deal either.

    Can't really argue with the OFH comments, it is definitely leak prone. When I did the one on my 00 I ran a very thin bead of RTV on the sealing surface, just outside of the gasket itself. Only kept the car for another 50K or so after that so I don't know what difference it made or didn't make. To me the OFH is a much bigger job than the breather hoses.
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  10. #10
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    I wouldn't change the CCV system until it's time to change the coolant pipes (which may be soon). The CCV system is trivial to change when the intake manifold is off, and may be too brittle to reinstall without replacement.

    The intake gaskets are probably in great shape, good enough to be reused.

    I agree that the oil filter housing gasket definitely needs to be replaced.

  11. #11
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    Oh great. My car is also a 2000 528 that I purchased new, and it has around 77k miles on it and I have a tendency to take short trips. Kind of irritating that this car can self implode if you don't keep up with certain things (cooling system being number one) and the CCV is on the list as well. One more thing to worry about.
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  12. #12
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    Short trips in low temps is a guarantee to have issues with the dreaded Mayo accumulation issue. Every German make and model has this issue. VW too! Solutions: heated garage, longer trips, frequent oil changes with the engine oil HOT.

    Upgrades from BMW: for 525/530 applications only, insulated vacuum hoses to pull oil vapor from the valve cover and separate the liquid back to the dip stick tube. Replaced them yet? 528 early and later models do not have the insulated hoses available only standard hoses. Replace them if OE
    Last edited by StephenVA; 01-22-2019 at 05:14 PM.
    Current Garage Highlights
    2003 525iT TiSilver
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    1973 Pantera L
    1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
    1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
    1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
    1969 Road Runner 383
    1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
    Short trips in low temps is a guarantee to have issues with the dreaded Mayo accumulation issue. Every German make and model has this issue. VW too! Solutions: heated garage, longer trips, frequent oil changes with the engine oil HOT.

    Upgrades from BMW: for 525/530 applications only, insulated vacuum hoses to pull oil vapor from the valve cover and separate the liquid back to the dip stick tube. Replaced them yet? 528 early and later models do not have the insulated hoses available only standard hoses. Replace them if OE
    IMO, the insulation on the hoses do little to no good.
    I almost think it is better without the insulation, that way the engine can heat the pipes faster...

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  14. #14
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    Short trips in really cold temps in the 01 525 plugged up a fairly new CCV system that had the insulated pipes. So while I was in there to replace the leaking plastic coolant pipes under the manifold I took the opportunity to rip out the CCV system and reconfigured it to mimic the ccv system in the b34 and b35 engines. In the 25 years since owing a bunch of e28s and e34s I've never experienced the dreaded Mayo accumulation issues in those cars. So it was out with the new and in with the old. So far oil consumption is been drastically reduced and the garage doesn't smell any more of blow by gases.

    cheers
    demet

  15. #15
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    I've never heard of CCV issues on M52 or M52TU engines.
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  16. #16
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    I'd like to replace all of mine too. I want to change the intake manifold gasket too, so why not while I'm down there.

    So much going on under there though, you'd want to try and get it all back where it was originally.

  17. #17
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    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
    Short trips in low temps is a guarantee to have issues with the dreaded Mayo accumulation issue. Every German make and model has this issue. VW too! Solutions: heated garage, longer trips, frequent oil changes with the engine oil HOT.
    Yep. Totally. Wife's been driving an Audi 2.0T motor nearly 10yrs, and, to much repeated husband-aggravation, often/always drives .5-.7 miles to work (pick from the excuse menu: too busy, running late, weather, doing errands later, something in the car i need anyway, etc. etc. Somehow there is one for single day of the year apparently.) That is a brilliantly wrong car/motor for that situation as it is infamous for its poorly engineered somewhat complex PCV assembly.

    Solution for us was LiquiMoly Leichtlauf High Tech oil. Drastically reduces the oil consumption due to PCV related issues. Not sure exactly why but I'm guessing that's because it reduces 'mayo' formation and perhaps cleans up the sludge/varnish that eventually always makes the 2.0T PCV stop working 100% as designed. It still consumes a little bit, but nothing like the quart-every-few-thousand-mis rate that we were at on the standard recommended M1 product (dealer policy: "that oil consumption is within acceptable limits" in case you are wondering).
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