Yesterday I tried using the maddox wheel bearing removal tool to pull out the subframe bushings. The tool was pulling the bushing out no problem, using my milwaukee fuel 1/2" impact to turn the tool. However about a 1/5 of the way in I noticed a slight bend starting where the subframe connected to the bushing cylinder. It's hard for me to tell but I think it slightly cracked it. I also noticed the factory welding is not entirely around the cylinder. Is this worth having fully welded in?
If this looks like a crack what is the best way to have a welder fix this?
What screws into that threaded hole? I'm wondering if some sort of reinforcement plate is put down, how much room around that hole is required to remain? subframe bushing crack 1.jpgsubframe bend 2.jpgsubframe bushing question.jpg
That looks more like damage in the finish (paint) than anything. Mine bent significantly more than yours did and never cracked. Never became a problem either. I would leave it, but if you're really worried you can have it welded and finish the weld around the cylinder, although I think it's overkill.
Yeah since you have it out you can have someone spend 5 minutes putting a weld on it if you're worried. Would be a good time to also weld in the reinforcement plates on the swaybar tabs if you haven't. I agree with others though that it doesn't look like a big deal and is probably fine.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Why impact wrench? You have almost no control or feel of what is happening when you impact something. There is a place for impact wrenches but using a bar and turning slowly would seem a better choice here.
Well Saturday I had a welder I found on craigslist weld in my rtab pocket reinforcements and the sway bar reinforcements, both which I got from AKG and everything fit pretty good. Had to make a few minor trims on the akg rtab piece to let it sit 100% flush against the floor or whatever you want to call it. I was pretty happy with how that went and he only charged me $210 for those. I ended up paying $120 to have him come back and weld this stuff today. I have this car torn apart and I don't want to have to do anything again so I figured why cheap out now. Ignore the camo looking primer, everything will be black again when finished. subframe bushing cylinders welded.jpgsway bar reinforcement 1.jpgsway bar reinforcement 2.jpgsubframe bushing cylinders welded.jpgsway bar reinforcement 1.jpgsway bar reinforcement 2.jpg
here's a few shots of the welded rtab pocket. No issues with any of the factory welds around where the bolts go; purely preventative work that was done.
Make sure you paint with self etching primer and use seam sealer
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