Post pictures of bottom mount air intake tubes.
It’s my last pipe to make on my car and I’m stuck. I have the tube mocks up outside the car but I can only picture getting it in with the motor mount removed. Is everyone using three couplers or two? 3” or 2.5”
Note it is easy without a/c. But my curiosity is how it’s been done with a/c.
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Are you trying to go up between the motor and frame rail to behind the headlight or low to the fog light area in the passenger front corner of the bumper cover?
My intercooler is above the sub frame. While poking around my only option seemed to be up between frame rail a/c and spa manifold to behind the headlight.
I would be ok behind the fog light but can’t see a path to get there
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It is possible to keep the AC compressor, a couple ways.
Before I realized that the you would need an extended motor mount bushing (to lift / rotate the motor to the drivers side of the engine bay) for the intake pipe to clear the manifold - I modified a conical air filter and mounted it directly to the turbo inlet, its tip sat right behind the compressor
I think I actually used this filter: I didn't like having the filter absorb the heat underneath the manifold or the size of it.
SPE-HPR0100.jpg
So I moved to the bumper
58ca12eedea199bdc6bf93da0bd05d77.jpg
I ended up getting irritated when I was trying to install an additional AUX fan and did away with AC
But yes, keeping it is possible. Its just a matter getting the intake pipe between the front of the turbo manifold and frame/ other parts. Extened motor mount / shimming. I would guesstimate you need an additional 2-3 inches of space there (if on stock motors mounts) for a 3" pipe.
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-20-2019 at 08:27 PM.
I used oval pipe, cut and welded in a curving shape and raised the AC and cut away part of the tensioner bracket to put a large cone filter in the fog light area under the bumper and just in front of the wheel well liner. Going up past the frame rail to the headlight area is easier.
Used an old fog light housing, removed the glass and cut off the back, epoxied a short piece of 1.5" aluminum tube to the back and used aviation ducting to bring it up to the top mount turbo area.
Makes a huge difference. Compressor cover is actually not HOT after running the car on the road.
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
I would try to get some elbows made where you design the pipe to have a weld in the center of the oval section. This will allow you to squish the open ends of the elbows to an oval section to clear the frame rail. Weld those together after forming and you should have a pipe that fits. Use the thinnest wall pipe you can find.
More than likely 3" - a 2.5", certaintly. Could always dent the 3" tube at the manifold if needed as well.
If I'm not mistaken before the bell housing hits the upper part of the firewall, we have a good 3-3.5 inches or so
If I we're able to do it all over again, I would find the longest motor mount available and I'd shim it if needed.
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