Montreal blue M52 turbo

[R.Thomas]

Will you be using the E46 M or non-M front fenders for the rear flares?

[et89]

pre-facelift non-m sedan fenders. my main example is this car;
http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/12/...t-cohesive-m3/

if my fenders come out the same as this i'll be very happy.

[et89]

PHOTO-2020-06-20-10-47-13.jpg

Sneak peak

[R.Thomas]

Looking NICE!

[chikinhed]

That looks good. My M3 has been in the body shop since December trying to get done what you had done in a couple of weeks

[et89]

That looks good. My M3 has been in the body shop since December trying to get done what you had done in a couple of weeks

Yeah, I am really happy with how the shop is working on this. Letting me know when they could start, he discusses every decision with me before moving forward, clear on what parts I needed to source and so on.

The delay I do have is because of how crusty my e36 was, And it was bad.

Going to pick up the car today. Putting it completely back together during the weekend hopefully.

I feel like a kid before Christmas to be honest.

I have a hard time letting people work on my car, not because I am so good at it (I am not), but because around here people don’t care as much as I do. It is cool to have a shop that gives me the feeling they care just as much as I do.

[et89]

WhatsApp Image 2020-06-27 at 13.42.16.jpeg
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final result
i need to align the rear bumper, and install the splitter.
also, I installed new OEM kidneys. I am very happy with how it all turned out.

as you can see i can fit wider wheels in the back now without issues.

[R.Thomas]

Came out good. What wheels/tires are you gonna run?

[et89]

Came out good. What wheels/tires are you gonna run?

I'll probably stay with these for a while.
don't know why but it is hard to get the actual look in pictures, in real life I fall in love everytime I see it.
fitment is good, and i don't feel like spending big bucks on different wheels right now.

but then again, I said the same regarding the fenders a few months ago, so we will see

[et89]

small update;

Due to corona, I had to cancel my planned road trip to scotland to do the NC500.
Sure enough, during the weeks i should be going, i got stranded with no clutch close to home.
Slave cilinder was spraying oil all over the place, not building enough pressure.
replaced both master and slave, and all was good.
luck that it didn't happen while in the middle of nowhere somewhere in the highlands.

After that we had 3 weeks with lots of rain and i noticed my carpet was very wet.
I found out that the seal between the heater and the firewall was leaking, with rain leaking into my interior.
Replacing that was the shittiest job I've ever done to a car.

Also ordered a set of Rotiform LSR's, but after some weeks of waiting i heard they were sold out, and Rotiform didn't build them no more,
and if i fancied a set of Japan Racing wheels or 3DSM's. the first being fake LM's and the other are not really my taste, so I canceled my order.

I am currently rebuilding a set of BBS style 42 18's. Real BBS's that i can give a personal touch.
I will run them with Falken 510's in 255 in the rear, and 225 in the front.

some pictures of the car from last christmas.

IMG_0915-01.jpg

IMG_0873-01.jpg

[R.Thomas]

What widths and offsets for the Style 42's?

[et89]

front:18 x 8.0J et20
rear: 18 x 9.0J et24

I will probably run it with a 5 or 10mm spacer in the front, 15mm in the rear. fills the (modified) rear wheel arges near perfect,
without having the inside of the tires much wider than i have on my current setup.

will post some pictures when done

[et89]

finished the wheels soem time ago, but i didn't post pics yet.
Did some tidying up on the rest of the car with the rear window weather strips,
ditched the red paint on the calipers and painted them dark grey.
and I 3d printed a bracket for my catch can:



got a present from my wife (clubsport door trim);



the wheels:

front:18 x 8.0J et20 - Falken Ziex914 225/40 R18
rear: 18 x 9.0J et24 - Falken FK510 255/35 R18

[R.Thomas]

Looking good. I love the Clubsport door sill trim.

[et89]

I'm looking into some Fuel rail/fuel system upgrades.

How do we feel about Fuel Pulse Dampers?

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Nice looking E36!

How do we feel about Fuel Pulse Dampers?

Depending on your fuel system design, injectors, etc. They can help with inconsistencies/trouble - but as with anything, data will be able to show you if you need something or not.

[et89]

Nice looking E36!



Depending on your fuel system design, injectors, etc. They can help with inconsistencies/trouble - but as with anything, data will be able to show you if you need something or not.

Data right now is not there other than that the car is running great and the AFR’s are pretty much spot on too where I want them to be. No option to log fuel pressure, but watching the gauge while driving it all looks fine. I don’t think an analog gauge is fast enough to pick up fuel pressure pulse that well.

Thing is, I am looking at radium engineering stuff to complement the rabidracing itb kit that I’ll be installing (I don’t really expect any gains, I just think it is a cool mod to do) and the s54 rail has an opening for an FPD, and I’m not sure if I “need” one.

[et89]

Haven't updated here in a while. <br>
Last year I have added a few things to this car, biggest is the Rabidracingdeveloplment S54 ITB converion kit and upgrade intercooler piping.

CDE6CD2B-048A-4B4F-88C4-E8276BCCC46C.jpg

I recently picked up an M50B25NV.
I want to build an engine for when the Alu M52 goes. This engine has about 200+K KM on it and although i never had an issue and it still runs strong,
I decided I want to go steel block for this engine build.
Plans:
M50B25NV rods and block
M52B28 crank
Forged pistons ~9.3:1CR

M50NV head, (if possible to repair) converted to vanos
M50B25NV intake cam as exhaust cam
M54B30 intake cam

Paired with my current setup with the HX35, SPA manifold and S54 itb conversion kit.
My goal is to make 500-550whp on this setup, maybe 600 in the future.

2 questions though, after pulling the M50 apart i found 2 things:

The head is cracked in cilinder 4 between the intake and exhaust valve (see picture) , in cilinder 4 the walls also have the following marks:
IMG-5216.jpg

IMG-5203.jpg

First question, the marks look like watermarks and i can't feel them with my nail when i scratch them, what are they? and would you run this as is?
2nd; is the crack in the head possible (And worth it) to repair?

I would really like to run the NV head, but if this is a dealbreaker for this, I can use my current vanos head.

[mr10ger]

pretty nice, how does the car behave with the ITBs and turbo compared to STB?
have you ever been on a dyno?
regarding the marks and cracks.I'd personally just use the block if you cant feel the stains and the engine ran well and had no isues before. or you flexhone it.
I also believe that half of the M5X heads are cracked, but i've never heard about any issues with cracked heads like leaking anything. So I'd either just use it or use the M52 head, if its not also cracked yet dont see any advantages of the NV head.

[et89]

Ordered oversized pistons,
Block will be bored and honed to be able to fit them.
B28 crank acquired
M54B30 camshaft acquiered

Waiting for the pistons to come in the mail so i can sent the block to the machine shop.

I'm really excited!

One more question, the M50 had all it's oil squirters, what is the consensus on replacing them, and do they actually wear down over time?
apart from Cil-4 the block was in very good condition, bearings looked really clean etc.

Regarding the head:
I think i'll just use the Vanos head of my current engine. unless i can find a replacement head for not to much money.
We'll see.

[R.Thomas]

Giddy up!!!!

[et89]

pretty nice, how does the car behave with the ITBs and turbo compared to STB?
have you ever been on a dyno?
regarding the marks and cracks.I'd personally just use the block if you cant feel the stains and the engine ran well and had no isues before. or you flexhone it.
I also believe that half of the M5X heads are cracked, but i've never heard about any issues with cracked heads like leaking anything. So I'd either just use it or use the M52 head, if its not also cracked yet dont see any advantages of the NV head.

Never been on a dyno..
My logs tell me that with the ITB's I have more air in the higher RPM's, keeps breathing fairly well up to 7K rpm.
I should be able to use more of that with the Cam setup that i am going for on the new engine build.
Throttle and turbo response improved. driveability was a bit worse and that needed some adjustment in the tune and the throttle cable.
It's doing great now, but the combo of the ITB's and my current clutch setup is
something not everyone can handle. I'll change my clutch setup when the new engine is done.

I'll make a decision when I pull my current head.
Curious to what I'll find in the ALU M52 after almost 40k of boosted KM,
of which at least 12k have been on a to small turbo and a tune that left a lot to be desired.

I measured the bores and in one spot the damage was 0.05mm deep and I was able to feel it.
that's why i decided to go oversized pistons and a bore and hone job on the new engine.