Major Issues

[txfour]

Hi, I am new here and need some help.

The ignition push button is staying illuminated even with the hood, trunk and doors closed and the car locked. Key is 100' from car. Why is the button staying illuminated over 2 hours after locking?

Also, the Auto Start/Stop at red lights randomly works.

So far I have replaced the battery as the other got killed by power draw. Registered the battery with my Carly Pro adapter.

I have now replaced the negative cable and IBS. Do you have to register a new IBS sensor with the car or it just picks it up?

Still getting "Increased Discharge" and "Battery Discharging While Stopped / Electrical Devices Were Temporarily Switched Off".

So today, I hooked up a multimeter to the positive cable and the positive post. I had the cable removed for this test.

I am seeing 6.6 amps continually. I pulled every single fuse under the hood one by one and every fuse in the trunk next to the amplifier and every fuse on the REM. Pulled them all one by one. I could not locate the FEM to see if there were any fuses on it.

The only aftermarket addition is HID lights. I pulled that fuse as well and it had no impact on pewer drain.

No matter what fuse was removed, I never could get the car to stop drawing power. Car does not have comfort access I do not think.

It will eventually go into self preservation mode and kill power to everything but still registers 1 amp and the ignition button will still stay lit.

I'm lost. It obviously has to have something to do with the push button staying lit 100% of the time.

I ran across this post about the EDC.
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1283704

[MauiM3Mania]

Moved from the General BMW Discussion sub-forum. Help will be found here.

[bmwdirtracer]

Hi Txfour, and welcome to the forum.

You need to know that your car is a mass of computers. Carly really isn't going to do it for you.

ISTA is BMW's own diagnostic system, and it has some special abilities. It can talk to the energy management system, and ascertain exactly which circuit has been sucking the electricity from your car after the car's supposedly gone to sleep.

Don't try to mess with this "old school". Get the car connected to ISTA, and let the computers tell you what's keeping them awake. The system can tell you "Amplifier drawing unauthorized power, 256 times....et al...)

By the way, when you do an old school drain test, hook up to the negative side, not the positive. Roll all the locks, and give it 30 minutes to fall asleep.

[ross1]

easy "old school" check
An alternator with a failed rectifier can drain the battery in short order. Might want to try disconnecting the big red + wire and see if the draw remains.
Your draw is pretty serious, I'd think the back of the alternator would be warm from dissipating that much energy.