hi guys, i've got a major problem with my e39. the first turns on the car works fine,starts and runs ok,but if i stop it,it will not start again.It dosen't matter how long i keep it working the first time, 5 min or 5hr,after i stop it and try to start it again it won't start,krank's fine long,but no start,the only error codes i get are 146 tilt sensor 149 burglar alarm system:passenger compartment sensor and 148 LED for burglar alarm open circuit. i've made the diagnose with a delphi ds 150.
it all startet when i had problems with my windscreen wipers motor. iv'e tested it directly and it worked fine so i advanced to the relay,this was fine too,then to the switch in the cabin,fine too then... to the comfort module the gm3 module....i've changed that too but nothing.I took down the motor and dismounted it and finaly find the problem.replaced it all fine wipers working again.....after all the mounting of the parts back...the next day i went to put gas...started fine got to the gas station put gas and when i wanted to leave the car won't start...that was in november last year...synce then i struggled with the problem.....
On short...
I get the same error codes...
crank but no spark(first start ok after stop,it won't start in the same day..next day the same behavior)
my car dosen't have an alarm system only central locking(no led in the mirror no sensor inside no wires under the roof for the sensors still the codes apear)
bought pa soft dezactivated the interior sensors and dwa(no error showing but the starting problem still exists)
bought inpa with ncs expert and ncs dummy(deactivated same sensors,the dwa antytheft system with ncs expert(done the coding on the gm3 module)but the problem is still there...
i considered the ews problem but if was a problem with ews or key( i have only one key) it wont start at all
the crankshaft sensor but....with that problem the same wont start at all or heavy start with poor performance...but te first start is ok the engine performs ok....
please if you can give me any tipe of help with this problem it will be very apreciated,any advice anything.....meed help,i'm gooing crazy here it's very frustrating....
allredy payd 4 mechanics but noone figured out.....
I THANK ANY WHO REPLY ON THIS....SORRY FOR THE BAD ENGLISH
I BEG THE ADMIN TO PUT THIS UP SO EVRYBODY TO SEE THANKS..
moved to E39 forum from E39 DIY
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Pull fuse #48 in the trunk and see if it solves the issue. I think all e39 came with burglar alarm (DWA) so probably somebody yanked it off not in the best way. If you don't want it, simply removing the fuse cuts feed to the DWA module and it lays there dormant, no need to yank it off. Code it off with BMW Scanner, then pull the fuse.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
This is possible. A notorious problem is for the hood switch to fail and set the alarm off all the time randomly. A possible scenario is that a previous owner had that problem, the car was constantly false-alarming going off on the street and in the night, and he did something stupid to try to remove it.
However the other very real possibility is that this car IS some kind of stripped-down base model (a 520i sold in Eastern Europe... sounds very possible it could be... those markets often get less-common low-end base models that are the opposite of the "totally loaded" cars that get sent to USA...) and indeed it did NOT have alarm from the factory... But then somebody swapped a junkyard GM into it that is looking for the alarm systems.
In that case all you should have to do is a full "Code Car" with NCS and reset all the coding to match the vehicles original equipment.
However I dont think that those error codes are related to the starting problem at all.
Conclusions we can make from the information provided:
1. If the starter is turning, then the EWS has no problem with any of its inputs, which would include the GM allowing it to start.
2. If the car starts the next day, then the EWS is not losing sync with the DME in any way.
Therefore these alarm related codes almost certainly have nothing to do with the engine starting.
So - although you still want to try the Code Car probably to sort that out, I think you should move on and ignore that for your starting problems.
Moving on then... Typical "no engine codes, cranks but no start" problems include:
- Crank or cam sensors faulty
- Low compression for some reason - borewash from excessively rich mixture, or leaky injector; or clogged rings; or something else...
mcv - no crank sensors can fail intermittently at first and sometimes it looks like this, like maybe they work ok when stone-cold, but then fail when warmed up. I know another German engine I had, if the crank sensor failed during operation, the engine would keep running fine until you shut it off because it would use the cam sensors as a timing substitute. But then the car would not re-start.
I would probably "throw a crank sensor at it" myself (advice is generally not to buy the cheap ones because they are known to fail quickly/early) and if that doesn't help, then I would do some compression tests on the engine, perhaps ideally when its warm and the car is failing to start.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Yep! Tho that was a weirdo condition, and a different motor but would certainly tell you if the DME is triggering injectors (which would rule out crank sensor actually...)
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I think there's more similarities between the later ms4x (m52TU and M54) and the me7.x than one would guess at first. The way they "prep and prime" the engine for cold start is one. If the DME is seeing abnormally and artificially "cold" conditions on (re)start it will flood the car like you experienced.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
greetings again thanks for the replies,my e39 is for europe was made for austria,it has no alarm system there is no fuse 48 in the trunk, no tilt sensor and no hood sensor or siren in the engine bay. before the dwa code it was working fine that's why i asumed this was the problem i will buy a crank sensor to see what happens next. The compresion rations are good 11.5 athmospheres per piston yhe temperature sensor works fine,tested it,sooo right now i'm running out of options...if any of you guys have any ideeas.... keep them coming....till then i will keep you posted to what i am dooing to the car....MANNY THANKS AGAIN FOR RESPONSES
Well, if the car is throwing DWA equipment codes, and TRULY never had it from 'birth', then somebody improperly coded the car at some point... OR (my strong suspicion) somebody swapped a different GM in...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Morning,alredy did the coding with ncs expert the dwa code disapeared,but still same problem.i will change the crankshaft sensor,and will see what happens next...but..if the crank sensor would be damaged,the diagnose should see it.....in my case no crank or camshaft sensor errors apear,i tested the car whith the following,delphi ds 150 inpa and pa soft1.4.......no error codes on engine section.....
Go back to "see" what analog values you have using INPA and check the DME when the no start condition is present. It might help to read all of the values before, when the car starts, and after, when it cranks but doesn't fire, and see what's going on.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Dude. We have been right about your DWA errors (went away with the recoding didn't they...) why don't 'you maybe trust we might know what we're talking about.
I already told you that a crank sensor failure may not throw codes and that it is not an uncommon situation to not see one.
By the way you don't have to use all those code things, none of them will do anything different, that's a waste of time. INPA and/or PASoft will be the best.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
If you still have this problem, disconnect your MAF, and see if the car starts. If it does,that's your problem. Dive without the MAF connected for one day and you will confirm. Cheers
I have this error
dwa led open circuit or cable dwal kl30
Can someone enlighten me what it means exactly?
No issues with the car, just an error I'd like to remove/fix
Looks like it might be connected to the anti theft system?
I remember I did disconnect the hood switch and removed the fuse for the alarm as it was randomly going off.
Looks like that's why I have the code?
I'll try to put back the fuse and new hood switch
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