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Thread: Seized/stuck brake caliper, wheel shake/shimmy, brake smell, overheating rotor.

  1. #1
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    Seized/stuck brake caliper, wheel shake/shimmy, brake smell, overheating rotor.

    This post discusses a seized/stuck brake caliper and the symptoms which can include wheel shake or shimmy, steering pulling left or right, brake smell/odor, very hot brake rotor, blue rotor metal, excessive brake pad or rotor wear. I have now read many posts referencing this problem on this and other forums, affecting many models and years. So, although I describe this on a particular model, I’ve posted in a general help forum because it is clear this is a general problem.

    My vehicle: 2012 BMW X5 xDrive35i (E70). Seized front passenger-side caliper. My symptoms: During a 10-mile drive to a restaurant on the freeway, car began to shake/shimmy not-too-seriously but very noticeable, especially in the steering wheel. I was close to the destination, so I continued. Upon arriving, I checked both front wheels, could smell strong brake odor on right front, feel extreme heat radiating from the rotor, and visibly the rotor had that blue color of being overheated. After dinner it had cooled, I was able to drive it home, no real noticeable shaking, but I avoided high speed roads. At home, same symptoms; strong brake smell, extremely hot, blue-colored rotor. I have experienced seized caliper before on another vehicle and I assumed that was the problem.

    Next day put it up on jacks, I could not rotate the right front wheel by hand whereas I could rotate the left one. Removed the right wheel, and could not rotate the rotor by hand. By prying on the edges of the outer brake pad, I was able to loosen pressure of the caliper enough to rotate the rotor. But after I pressed the brake pedal, the caliper would not release, and would require prying to release the pressure on the pads. I opened the bleed screw to release hydraulic pressure in the caliper, to test the theory that has been suggested here about the brake hose failing such that the fluid couldn’t flow backwards. This did not release the pressure on the pads, and I still couldn’t rotate the rotor. I bled about a quarter cup of fluid off into a can, and it pumped out just fine with no apparent fluid line restriction. I visually inspected the fluid for any particles, dirt or cloudiness, but the fluid was clean and clear. I removed the caliper and checked the pins. They weren’t particularly dirty, but I cleaned off what little debris there was. I used a c-clamp to compress the piston, and it did seem that it took quite a bit of c-clamp force to make the piston move (as compared to the many other times I’ve done this on other vehicles). I had my wife press the brake pedal to extend the piston (I placed a wood block so the piston wouldn’t pop completely out). I exercised the caliper 3 times this way, hoping it would loosen up and operate properly; but each time I used the c-clamp, although it did compress, it seemed like it took an awfully lot of force to make it move, even with the bleed-screw loosened. I believe this ruled-out the concept that the problem was some blockage in a hydraulic line. I replaced the caliper, but it still would not release after pressing on the pedal. I even took it for a short test drive (hoping maybe driving it would help) but just came home with a smoking hot rotor. It seemed clear that there must be some kind of mechanical obstruction making the piston difficult to move, and I decided to replace it with a rebuild.

    The next few hours I spent trying to locate a caliper, or even a rebuild seal kit. In a city the size of Salt Lake City on a regular weekday, I could find no rebuild in stock anywhere. The single dealer in town notified me that a new caliper costs $467, and that it is special order and 4 days out! They also said they “didn’t sell” a seal kit or rebuild kit, although I soon learned that there is a BMW OEM kit (34-11-1-163-647 ) and so the fact this dealer “doesn’t sell it” doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist, and it is of course available from online sources like ECS Tuning and Pelican for about $25. Likewise, I found several of these online sources had rebuilds for less than $100 but all of these requiring waiting a week for delivery. Back to the brick-and-mortar stores, Advance Auto Parts (formerly Carquest) said they could get one in about 4 days at the great price of about $280. Said they didn’t have a seal kit. Autozone had neither a seal kit or rebuild in stock, but advertised on their website a “home delivery only” rebuild for only $59 but about 11 days to ship. I actually tried to order that one, but at checkout was hit with a notice that it is “not available.” NAPA had neither a rebuild nor a seal kit. But finally, believe it or not, O’Reilly (formerly Checker) whose rebuild costs $79 but is special order and about a week out, said they had a seal kit IN STOCK, and it cost about $4! I was skeptical, but it was true. It is BrakeBest part number 15299, O’Reilly line code BHH.

    So I rebuilt the caliper with the new seal and dust boot. Yes I have a cylinder hone, and I honed the cylinder slightly to make sure it was smooth, but mostly I focused on using the hone to remove some small amount of rust/corrosion that had formed around the outer lip of the cylinder, but inside the dust boot. I haven’t rebuilt a caliper in years, and this caliper is an unusual design in my (admittedly ancient) experience. The seal does not fit in a groove on the piston like most I’ve done. Rather the seal fits in a groove in the cylinder. And not only had rust formed around the outer lip, but also there was rust and crap within this groove. It was apparent to me that it is very important to clean this groove out thoroughly, and a cylinder hone won’t do it. I fashioned a small rectangular piece of metal that I could hold with pliers and use as a scraper to clean out this groove. It’s possible that some rebuild shops may fail to clean the groove well, and that might explain the reports in this forum where people have replaced their caliper with a rebuilt one but it did not correct the binding problem. I seriously suspect that the design of this caliper makes it more susceptible than other designs to binding when corrosion, rust, dust, and debris get into this groove, possibly by distorting the seal or preventing the seal from being able to move or flex inwardly/outwardly. At any rate, it appears BMW calipers are mostly all this design, and the numbers of people reporting seized calipers on various BMW models and years seems to suggest it isn’t that uncommon of a problem.

    In regard to the piston, in this design, it is the piston’s outer walls which must be nice and smooth to effect a sliding seal, rather than the cylinder walls. In my case, the piston had no scratches or corrosion and was easily cleaned with brake parts cleaner and paper towels. It appears to have a phosphate coating which I suspect probably shouldn’t be polished off, so I didn’t attempt to smooth it with, for example, fine sandpaper. I suspect the piston actually needs to be replaced if it is scratched or pitted too badly, although I don’t know where I would get one. I searched and found many seal kits for BMWs include new pistons, and some separate pistons are available. While I was at it, I also measured the piston diameter in several directions to check it for out-of-roundness, just to rule this out as a possible source of binding. It appeared to be perfectly round. So after scraping the groove, removing the rust and corrosion around the outer lip, I otherwise cleaned everything well and assembled it with the new seal and dust boot, lubing the piston and seal with a little clean brake fluid. I installed it, bled it, and then tested it. I knew it was functioning properly because I could have my wife hold the brake down and I couldn’t rotate the rotor, but as soon as she let up on the brake pedal, then I could rotate it.

    Just to mention another problem that can cause binding that I’ve seen others report. The piston is kept in parallel alignment with the cylinder by pressing against the flat, perpendicular back of the brake pad. If the brake pad is worn in an unusual manner (such as all worn out at one end but the other end is still thick); if the rotor were worn unusually (such as if the outer edge was considerably thinner than the more central area); if the wheel bearing was bad causing the rotor to tip; or any other abnormality that would cause the brake pad to lay on a plane that was not essentially perpendicular to the bore of the caliper cylinder; then the piston can be cocked (tilted) in such a manner as to bind against the cylinder.

    Below are a few pictures. I know this is long, but there are several things that I wanted to point out that I hope might help people trying to diagnose or correct this problem:

    1. The amount of rust/corrosion/dirt was actually quite minimal…I’m still somewhat surprised that what I found was enough to cause the piston to drag so much.
    2. I suspect binding or hindrance of the caliper piston on these models is a lot more common cause of the problem than dirty pins.
    3. I’m highly suspicious of the story that the brake hose often fails in some way to prevent release of hydraulic pressure from the cylinder (acting in some way like a “check-valve”). At the least, do the tests I’ve described before running out and buying a new hose.
    4. For those with E70s, if you can’t find a rebuild somewhere within a reasonable cost and time frame, perhaps you can at least find these cheap seals at O’Reilly and do it yourself…or perhaps there are still some brake shops that will actually rebuild it for you, even if you have to supply the seals.

    Just removed.JPGBoot_piston_cylinder rust.JPGRust 2.JPGAll cleaned up.JPGSeal Kit.JPG

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    Not that this applies but I had a caliper that wouldn't release either and toasted my new Akebono ceramic brake pads. Couldn't figure out what the problem was after checking everything during full disassembly of calipers. Checking piston movement without seals revealed a slight drag in bore. I used my inside mic to check several points in the bore and found it had heat warped out of round. Dialed the bore in on the mill and removed a few .001's from egg shape with the boring head, a quick hone and problem corrected. Check other suspect components as stated above but if nothing seems wrong then check the bore for being out-of-round (oval) from heat/stress before you throw money at problem. Yes it was a brand new aftermarket caliper.

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    Interesting. "Checking piston movement without seals" sounds like a wise thing to do anytime you have the caliper disassembled.

  4. #4
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    Yeah BMW's newer cars - E-46 and up seem to use that same principle. I had to replace two calipers on the wagon already, and both pistons would move pretty freely, I could hear/feel when one goes bad. I have replaced my fluid every 2 years, so I think it is junk seals being used by BMW and as you noted, seal placement.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkitt View Post
    Interesting. "Checking piston movement without seals" sounds like a wise thing to do anytime you have the caliper disassembled.
    -I never had this happen in the past. The past 30 years have revealed the evidence of all manufacturers cutting as many corners as possible to reduce costs. This often results in metal components warping from stress/heat cycles which seldom happened decades ago. Sure, design reduction in mass to reduce weight/cost is a factor but in the 80's we sent a plate out for hardening (for further WEDM work) and it came back from hardening with a noticeable stress crack across the plate like it was de-laminating. This almost never happened with this material (A-2). Other times we had seen weird inclusions of foreign substances that the WEDM couldn't even disintegrate. These were the first notifications of what happened from outsourcing products/materials offshore. What I'm getting at is parts work great (if to spec) until installed and subject to heat/stress in normal duty cycling. Once that occurs there's no telling if the component is still to spec or not and despite the added time involved it would be a good idea to verify that something hasn't changed before putting the component back on the vehicle. Assuming (like I did) that "It's a new part so it HAS to be good" can come back to bite and then it may create bigger problems or at least re-doing the job. It does take more time to check/measure things during a repair and I fully understand that not everybody (except another worn out toolmaker) has measuring equipment suitable for the job at hand. However, for those here that do a lot of work on their infernal contraptions (more than a few here do) it might pay dividends to acquire some good measuring instruments to verify things are what they should be. Now that most manufactured components are outsourced to some nameless company located who-knows-where and blame/liability won't reach the desk of somebody that can/will actually do something I find it a good habit to be a bit mistrusting until proven before relying on the results of 1st piece approval for a production contract of critical components I have to put faith in. This holds especially true when hunting (as we all do) for a better price for components on the internet. It may seem a bargain but perhaps there's a reason it's a lower price. I've even found name brand items to be lacking sometimes. My apologies to all for the long rant about the steady decline of quality in manufactured components but I'm hoping it may help someone avoid incidents that lead to much wailing and gnashing of teeth. I've gotten a lot of valuable info from the collective membership of this board, I'm just trying to contribute something back I know a little about. Hope it helped someone, I'm going to return now to my seat in the back row....to lurk.

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    Quote Originally Posted by roninB4 View Post
    -The past 30 years have revealed the evidence of all manufacturers cutting as many corners as possible to reduce costs.
    Well, since we're ranting here...One of the reasons I've owned 7 BMWs over the years (i.e. my cars, kids cars) is because of the quality of the components as compared to many makes. Electrical connectors that actually work and don't break when pulling apart, quality steel that doesn't rust nearly so fast, good screws that don't round off the first time you put a wrench to them, etc. Also that they seemed designed to be maintained, in that in most cases there is a procedure that can be followed where, for example you don't find yourself working blind or trying to remove some screw 1/64th of a turn at a time. However, diagnosing problems, and discovering the proper service procedure hasn't always been easy, and that's where forums like this can be pretty helpful. But diagnosis and repair instructions wouldn't be so hard to find if BMW did not very intentionally make it this way in order to try to monopolize service to their dealerships. (Ever notice that a link to a BMW Technical Service Bulletin rarely works for very long? They viciously enforce their copyright on those, to make sure service info is unavailable to both independent mechanics and owners who DIY). And we all know about the outrageous cost of dealer parts, further discouraging competition and DIY. Today's rant is that now I'm finding regularly that my local dealership tells me every time I call that a part is not in stock and is "special order." This dealer has a very large and very busy service department. It's very difficult for me to believe that they don't keep in stock something so commonly needed as a brake caliper, or at least a seal kit. I admit I'm a conspiracy theorist at heart, but I can't help but believe they are deliberately discouraging independents and DIYers in this manner also. It may be that this is unique to BMW of Murray since they are the only dealer within about 50 miles, so they have a pretty good monopoly going anyway. This E70 is the first BMW I've owned that was not at least 10 years old when I got it, and aftermarket parts aren't so readily available as the older ones. It may be the last BMW I ever own.

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    while i won't defend BMW - or any modern manufacturer in a variety of industries - i will say that i've found bmw to be more forthcoming regarding service information than other makes. granted, they do not make it easy to find, but a little time on the internet will point you in the right direction.

    for example:
    factory information is available, for a fee, via this official site:
    https://www.bmwtis.com/

    to take advantage of the actual diagnostics, yes, you need the gear they support - but, you can do it if you want to. there's actually more here than they were actually mandated to provide - imo.

    factory repair manuals and procedures, not official, are available here:
    https://www.newtis.info/

    there's a wealth of parts suppliers online that offer BMW parts at pretty good pricing.....
    my local dealers offer discounts to BMW CCA club members - which helps make parts, service, etc. a bit more affordable.

    now, if i speak from an information security perspective (my area of expertise) then BMW gets a big "F" if I were grading them.
    again, not trying to hold them up as a poster child or be a defender of the brand or anything - but, i do think the access is better than others.

    now, having said all that, i'd point out that the right to repair is a critical movement in this country. it is imperative that we continue to push for the right to repair the things we buy...
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

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    Thanks for the links and your perspective. I guess I'm just disappointed in the whole Information Age. I'm old enough to remember being the first guy on the block to own a personal computer. With the coming of the internet I envisioned a time when the world's knowledge would be at our fingertips! How naive. Good info has simply become a bigger commodity, and it isn't cheap. Plenty of free spam, misinformation and fake news though.
    Quote Originally Posted by shadowpuck View Post
    now, having said all that, i'd point out that the right to repair is a critical movement in this country
    I certainly agree with that. Diagnosis/repair info and parts for EVERYTHING we buy comes at such a high cost (if available at all) that it disappoints me. Not the least in regard to our environment, where the important middle word in the mantra, "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" seems all but non-existent.

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    I'm not going to get into the logistics of BMW, or other manufacturers, trying to send service to their dealerships....but I'd really like it if people would put paragraph breaks in their huge blocks of text.

    That $#!+ is unreadable.

    Chris Powell
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    ....but I'd really like it if people would put paragraph breaks in their huge blocks of text.

    That $#!+ is unreadable.
    -Ughhh guilty as charged

    -It just comes out as one connected stream of thought

    -Will try to do better in the future.......

    -......with composition

    -That's part of why I don't post very often

    -It's Cassady & Kerouac's fault

    (returning to my seat now)

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    Quote Originally Posted by roninB4 View Post
    -Ughhh guilty as charged

    -It just comes out as one connected stream of thought

    -Will try to do better in the future.......

    -......with composition

    -That's part of why I don't post very often

    -It's Cassady & Kerouac's fault

    (returning to my seat now)
    eh, just throw a return or enter key in the mix every now and then - you'll be fine.
    write down the thought - copy it into a text editor (in case your browser eats your idea) and then add some returns....done.
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

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    Quote Originally Posted by dkitt View Post
    Thanks for the links and your perspective. I guess I'm just disappointed in the whole Information Age. I'm old enough to remember being the first guy on the block to own a personal computer. With the coming of the internet I envisioned a time when the world's knowledge would be at our fingertips! How naive. Good info has simply become a bigger commodity, and it isn't cheap. Plenty of free spam, misinformation and fake news though.

    I certainly agree with that. Diagnosis/repair info and parts for EVERYTHING we buy comes at such a high cost (if available at all) that it disappoints me. Not the least in regard to our environment, where the important middle word in the mantra, "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" seems all but non-existent.
    i've been fiddling with the internet and computers longer than folks might think, or i even care to admit!

    i'm disappointed with aspects of the "information age," but, also, it's an amazing time to be around. i have access to such a wide variety of information sources for nearly anything i want to learn about that its staggering at times and often more of a challenge to discover legitimate info vs. the fake (another area of my studies - use of propaganda).

    however, i hear what you are saying - you make good points. much like in other aspects of society - the minute someone figured out you could make money with that internet thing, it spelled doom for certain principles.

    totally agreed regarding reduce-reuse-recycle. everything is basically module swap - diagnose/troubleshoot to the module. now i'll sound like "old man yelling at clouds" but i started out doing board level repairs on computer gear - so, diagnose down to the individual component and make the repair. on the plus side, modularization allows for more flexibility in programming/customization, and can still be DIY friendly.

    at least we like cars that have a thriving aftermarket producing parts, and in many cases - quality parts - we have enough skilled/experienced folks working on those cars that we have resources when we need help (as DIYers - it's also always so amazing to me how many BMW techs are willing to discuss/assist us DIYers).

    i remember when i first jumped into DIY (the e46 was still rather new) and everyone was proclaiming it was the end of the world in regards to DIY. then the e90 was the doom. this made me curious so i went and did some research. i found articles from back in the early 90's claiming the e36 was the killer of the "backyard mechanic."

    i guess its all relative and perspective!
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

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    3. I’m highly suspicious of the story that the brake hose often fails in some way to prevent release of hydraulic pressure from the cylinder (acting in some way like a “check-valve”). At the least, do the tests I’ve described before running out and buying a new hose.
    Well, it does happen, but I'll agree it's pretty rare. I did have it happen to a 99 Blazer of mine, after two rebuilt calipers refused to release pressure on the same wheel. As to the "some way", what happens is that a chunk of inner layer delaminates and when you release pressure, the backward flow flips it back and it blocks the line.

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    I have found internally collapsed brake hoses to be more common than sticking calipers.

    It's really easy to test: just crack the bleed screw open to relieve any possible pressure. If the wheel then turns easily, the hose is at fault. If the wheel still doesn't spin, the caliper is at fault.

    Either way, I'd never replace or rebuild a caliper without replacing the hose; the hose is inexpensive, and a rubber part which exhibits typical rubber failures from age, not to mention the stresses put on it by thousands of pounds of pressure, and a caliper being hung from it when a bad mechanic does a brake job.

    Chris Powell
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    I have found internally collapsed brake hoses to be more common than sticking calipers.

    It's really easy to test: just crack the bleed screw open to relieve any possible pressure. If the wheel then turns easily, the hose is at fault. If the wheel still doesn't spin, the caliper is at fault.

    Either way, I'd never replace or rebuild a caliper without replacing the hose; the hose is inexpensive, and a rubber part which exhibits typical rubber failures from age, not to mention the stresses put on it by thousands of pounds of pressure, and a caliper being hung from it when a bad mechanic does a brake job.
    I respect your experience and credentials, so if I'm wrong about the frequency of hose failures, then I stand corrected. The flipped back rubber flap thing still seems like an incredibly unlikely occurrence to me; but there are other ways a hose can be restricted, and there's certainly a lot more pressure to overcome a restriction coming from the master cylinder than going back the other way. Thanks for re-iterating that it's easy to rule in or out with the bleed screw test.

    A further interesting discussion about this issue can be found here: https://www.knowyourparts.com/techni...ths-revisited/

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    I don't blame hose failure on a flap of rubber, I blame it on internal collapse and swelling. In my opinion, the vast majority of these failures are caused by bad mechanics, at least if the car's as young as yours.

    I've seen some bad techs hang a caliper by the hose. Even worse, tool suppliers sell "brake hose clamps"...which is just disgusting. Whether the brake hoses are rubber factory items, or stainless braided stuff, they should never be kinked, pinched or clamped. Kinking stresses and puts cracks in the internal layer, which allows the volatile brake fluid to begin deterioration, and, if it's a rubber line, internal swelling.

    I've personally (on my own M5) had slightly sticking front brakes that repeatedly killed rotors. I first rebuilt the calipers, and replaced the hoses. Then I replaced the $500 each calipers with brand new. It took a new master cylinder to finally fix it. (Glad it was my own car!) Still, the poor beast weighs 4000 pounds and is subjected to full-tilt track use.....

    Chris Powell
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Even worse, tool suppliers sell "brake hose clamps"...which is just disgusting.
    Couldn't agree more on that! Clamping brake hoses seems a very poor practice, whether the clamp has "rounded edges" or not. Dangling the caliper from a brake hose? Well I was taught about that in high school auto mechanics class more than 40 years ago. Thanks for your insight.

    Since I've got a line of communication open with a guy who knows what he's talking about, hope you won't mind a related question. I put ceramic pads on this car about a year ago, to reduce wheel dust. They've worked very well for that. But I'm suspicious they conduct more heat from the rotor to the caliper piston, and maybe that heat cooked my caliper seal, making it inflexible. I would also say the ceramics are tearing up my rotors a bit faster also. Curious as to your thoughts on ceramic pads.

  18. #18
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    I can't comment on ceramic pads as a category, because every make is different, just as "semi-metallics" differ from one another. Certainly, Akebonos seem excellent, for lower dusting. I don't care about dust, and I use OEM pads for street use, because they work instantly from stone cold, every time, and can put up with any amount of street demands, even from extraordinarily high speeds.

    For track use, I like Performance Friction best, although they don't make front pads for my M5, so I have to use Hawk race pads.

    I don't think your use of ceramic pads is causing undue heat transfer, ruining your caliper seals, in street use. I've seen MANY rotors glowing red hot on the track, without cooking seals.

    Chris Powell
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    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  19. #19
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    my thoughts - granted, unasked! haha.

    ceramic pads - generally not a fan. same with semi-metallics.

    i also do not care about brake dust.
    OE/OEM pads/rotors for street use.

    on track - yup, PFC for me.

    chris - i think PFC will put any compound on any backing plate if they know the fitment/plate number, etc....granted, no idea on price for such service!
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
    Posts
    23,672
    My Cars
    E39M5, E500 4WD
    Hmmm, thanks, Greg! Track season approaches, and the Hawks always disappoint, compared to PFC. I might have to send them an email....and a set of worn out Hawks....

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    SE Tennessee
    Posts
    302
    My Cars
    98 328iS, 84 733i (sold)
    Not my place to question the voice of experience but for my own knowledge (anybody can chime in here) why do the Hawks disappoint? Just on the track at elevated temps? Never done 4 wheels on a track, 2 wheels and 2 left feet yes but not 4 wheels.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
    Posts
    23,672
    My Cars
    E39M5, E500 4WD
    Sometimes I put the pads and a different set of rotors on a few days before the track weekend, and wait a few days after, to take them off. The Hawks scream bloody murder on the street. They really just don't stop the car as well, on track, either - I have to brake at least one or two markers earlier at the end of VIR's long straights, after the brakes are fully hot.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    asheville, nc
    Posts
    65
    My Cars
    01 325xi sedan
    dkitt, reading all that made me glad I opted to grab two rebuilt centric calipers from FCP when the rear right started sticking, heating up, and stinking! Got a friend to help me slap them in and was good to go! I enjoyed all the detail though, and appreciate the posts!

    So, say you have new stainless hoses, but on caliper removal it kinda got away from you and fell, then hung from the hose briefly... Would you be worried about the integrity of the hose? Not that I be that clumsy........

    Quote Originally Posted by roninB4 View Post
    -Ughhh guilty as charged

    -It just comes out as one connected stream of thought

    -Will try to do better in the future.......

    -......with composition

    -That's part of why I don't post very often

    -It's Cassady & Kerouac's fault

    (returning to my seat now)
    Haha. I found it interesting enough that I didn't notice the lack of breaks (no pun intended) until Chris said something! I mostly lurk too, so I'll see you in the shadows.

    Best wishes to all:

    https://getpocket.com/explore/item/j...olden-eternity
    H&R Sport Springs, Bilstein B8s, and poly bushings (Thanks Chris!); Valeo SMF & non-SA Clutch, CDV delete, and E60 Shifter w/ ZHP knob; Beisan System VANOS Seals...
    Mtech-II Front Bumper (PO got bumped in parking lot!); Eagle Eye LED Tail Lights... Lots of PM!!!

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