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Thread: Ideas for fixing a key fob / fob holder

  1. #1
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    Ideas for fixing a key fob / fob holder

    So let me start by saying I've soldered my fob a half dozen times and it works great.

    But, after 21 years and 235k miles, the plastic where the keychain connects has literally worn through and broken. (See picture below).

    I may just post in the wanted section for a broken fob and replace the shell, but has anyone got any ideas on some kind of way to fix it or otherwise keep the keys attached to the fob?


    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  2. #2
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    Plastic epoxy and sanding

  3. #3
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    Buy an aftermarket Subaru fob. Or ask Braymond141 if he has any used cases. He reprogram Subaru fobs to work on the E36 — both are alpine fobs but have different programs. I have one of his reprogrammed Subaru fobs.

  4. #4
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    You can buy replacement cases for a few bucks on Ebay. Only difference is they have the blue/orange buttons like the Subaru fobs, instead of grey buttons.
    Current Whips: 10 E90 ///M3 - 04 GMC Sierra CCSB - 19 VW Atlas

    Past BMW's:
    85 325 - 87 325is M-Tech 1 - 91 318is S50 swapped - 91 318i 'vert
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    06 330xi - 09 335i

  5. #5
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    are slow.
    Braymond141 has them in stock.

    https://www.msportparts.com/collections/electronics

    Well worth just getting one from him than trying to fix it with epoxy. Plus Brett is a cool dude who could use the support


    But if you wan'ted to cheap out, and feel like the buttons do work, and the electronics won't give you an issue, you could always just buy a blank case:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-BUTTON-RE...1/132915487889
    Last edited by Hova; 01-17-2019 at 03:57 PM.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    Braymond141 has them in stock.

    https://www.msportparts.com/collections/electronics

    Well worth just getting one from him than trying to fix it with epoxy. Plus Brett is a cool dude who could use the support


    But if you wan'ted to cheap out, and feel like the buttons do work, and the electronics won't give you an issue, you could always just buy a blank case:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-BUTTON-RE...1/132915487889

    Thanks, I should have searched for Subaru fobs. All of the BMW results were integrated with the key.

    And yeah, as I said all of my stuff works. A new $10 case will more than do the job.

    But I DO need that trunk latch reinforcement he sells.

  7. #7
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    I can sell you a new gray button empty shell too. $10

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    I can sell you a new gray button empty shell too. $10
    Deal! I'll give you a call a little later today and add that to the trunk latch reinforcement plate.

    Thanks!

  9. #9
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    I'll try to have shells on the website today. There's a "hot spot" in them from the injection molding process. Fitment is 10/10, Aesthetics are 9/10 in my opinion. The gray button shells are impossible to find so it's all I could get.


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    I'll try to have shells on the website today. There's a "hot spot" in them from the injection molding process. Fitment is 10/10, Aesthetics are 9/10 in my opinion. The gray button shells are impossible to find so it's all I could get.

    I already did it. I just ordered the plate and two Hotwheels, and added a note to the order to replace them with the case. I also sent you an email about it.

    Not worried about the aesthetics - and I'm sure it'll be worn smooth like the old one soon enough anyway...

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    I already did it. I just ordered the plate and two Hotwheels, and added a note to the order to replace them with the case. I also sent you an email about it.

    Not worried about the aesthetics - and I'm sure it'll be worn smooth like the old one soon enough anyway...
    Got your message and will adjust. Thank you!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    Got your message and will adjust. Thank you!
    You really went above and beyond - thank you!

    And this reinforcement plate is great too, but would have fit a lot better if I'd installed it ten years ago!
    Last edited by blckstrm; 01-23-2019 at 07:15 PM. Reason: spelling

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    You really went above and beyond - thank you!

    And this reinforcement plate is great too, but would have fit a lot better if I'd installed it ten years ago!
    Is your sheet metal that bad?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    Is your sheet metal that bad?
    Yeah, sadly.

    It's not terrible - it's installed and closes fine, but it's not completely flush.

    I've been rear-ended twice now (while sitting at a complete stop - not some stupid emergency braking stunt), and have had to punt on fixing the trunk to avoid totaling the car both times. It never made contact with the trunk itself, but the bumper moving under it tweaked the latch and exacerbated the cracks. I'll have to take a picture. One side is sunk and the other is a little high. The plate pulls the sunken side out to where it should be, but the high side doesn't want to move back where it belongs.

    I tried tapping it with my ball peen hammer, but it didn't want to move at all. I didn't want to get too aggressive with it, but maybe I should be a little more aggressive with it and go at it slowly. I thought it would be best to work on it with the latch screws in place, but it may may sense to try it with the screws removed.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

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