So let me start by saying I've soldered my fob a half dozen times and it works great.
But, after 21 years and 235k miles, the plastic where the keychain connects has literally worn through and broken. (See picture below).
I may just post in the wanted section for a broken fob and replace the shell, but has anyone got any ideas on some kind of way to fix it or otherwise keep the keys attached to the fob?
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Plastic epoxy and sanding
Buy an aftermarket Subaru fob. Or ask Braymond141 if he has any used cases. He reprogram Subaru fobs to work on the E36 — both are alpine fobs but have different programs. I have one of his reprogrammed Subaru fobs.
You can buy replacement cases for a few bucks on Ebay. Only difference is they have the blue/orange buttons like the Subaru fobs, instead of grey buttons.
Current Whips: 10 E90 ///M3 - 04 GMC Sierra CCSB - 19 VW Atlas
Past BMW's:
85 325 - 87 325is M-Tech 1 - 91 318is S50 swapped - 91 318i 'vert
97 M3/2 - 98 M3/4/5 (Alpine/Modena) - 98 M3/2 - 98 M3/4 (Dakar)
06 330xi - 09 335i
Braymond141 has them in stock.
https://www.msportparts.com/collections/electronics
Well worth just getting one from him than trying to fix it with epoxy. Plus Brett is a cool dude who could use the support
But if you wan'ted to cheap out, and feel like the buttons do work, and the electronics won't give you an issue, you could always just buy a blank case:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-BUTTON-RE...1/132915487889
Last edited by Hova; 01-17-2019 at 03:57 PM.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
I can sell you a new gray button empty shell too. $10
I'll try to have shells on the website today. There's a "hot spot" in them from the injection molding process. Fitment is 10/10, Aesthetics are 9/10 in my opinion. The gray button shells are impossible to find so it's all I could get.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Last edited by blckstrm; 01-23-2019 at 07:15 PM. Reason: spelling
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Yeah, sadly.
It's not terrible - it's installed and closes fine, but it's not completely flush.
I've been rear-ended twice now (while sitting at a complete stop - not some stupid emergency braking stunt), and have had to punt on fixing the trunk to avoid totaling the car both times. It never made contact with the trunk itself, but the bumper moving under it tweaked the latch and exacerbated the cracks. I'll have to take a picture. One side is sunk and the other is a little high. The plate pulls the sunken side out to where it should be, but the high side doesn't want to move back where it belongs.
I tried tapping it with my ball peen hammer, but it didn't want to move at all. I didn't want to get too aggressive with it, but maybe I should be a little more aggressive with it and go at it slowly. I thought it would be best to work on it with the latch screws in place, but it may may sense to try it with the screws removed.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
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