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Thread: Driver's Door Lock will not lock door.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    75
    My Cars
    1989 BMW 735i

    Driver's Door Lock will not lock door.

    So amidst the myriad of other problems, our driver's door has decided that it will not lock from the outside with the key.
    It will unlock if and only if you hold it in the unlock position. However, if you release the key, it rebounds and relocks all doors, causing my wife to glare at me angrily, thinking that I'm playing games and intentionally locking her out of her side of the car.
    Our mechanic has told me that we need a new cylinder, and that we would have to then change the other locks, and the keys, thus causing us to also have to replace the ignition switch.
    Is there anyway around this option?
    Has anyone here had similar problems and if so, how did you rectify the situation?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,655
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Maybe you just need new grommets https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=grommets
    Even if you get another used/new lock, you can change thwe wafers and then still the old key fits http://www.evansweb.info/2003/01/18/...l-replacement/
    also check the bracket http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...k_bracket.html
    mechanism http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/do...kMechanism.htm
    microswitch http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...croswitch.html

    when the system rebounds and locks again = the general module under the rear seat gets an implausible signal

    GM function
    Resetting the GM also sometimes helps.
    SUBJECT: New General Modules (GM)

    MODELS: 7 Series (E32), 5 Series (E34)
    - Vehicles produced 9/91 and later
    Situation: New general modules have been used in production since September 1991 in all E32 and E34 models. The software has been completely revised (details of these revisions are found in the attachment to this Service Information Bulletin). Part numbers have been changed to reflect these revisions, as listed below, as of September 1991. Model Part Number
    E32 61 35 8 356 095,
    E34-up to 61 35 8 356 095 9/91 production
    E34-9/91 and later production 61 35 8 355 812
    Note:
    E34 vehicles produced 9/91 and later have different central locking system components from earlier E34 vehicles; therefore, P/N 61 35 8 355 812 is used only in E34 vehicles produced 9/91 and later, P/N 61 35 8 356 095 can be used in E34 vehicles produced prior to 9/91, and in all E32 vehicles. When the general module is connected to the vehicles electrical system, it will recognize (and store in memory) the vehicle configuration, such as:
    - with/without power windows
    - With/without power sunroof
    - with/without wiper contact pressure control
    - with/without headlight washers
    Important Information
    All general modules must be plugged in only after disconnecting the vehicle's battery. If the vehicle's battery is connected when the GM is installed, undefined signal contacts can cause an incorrect vehicle configuration to be stored, resulting in the impairment of
    one or more of the above-mentioned systems. If one or more of the GM functions are impaired in this matter, the GM can be "cleared" by disconnecting the vehicle's battery for at least ten seconds.

    GM Function Changes E32/E34 (Beginning with 9/91 Production)
    - Repeat and Time interlock for headlight washers:
    · Time interlock: 3 minutes
    · Headlight washing at fifth windshield washing after time interlock.
    - Intensive washing pump operating time reduced from 3 to 2 seconds
    - Minimum interval for intermittent wiping is programmable down to 2 seconds (previously 3 seconds)
    - Increased wiper contact pressure during windshield washing cycle is now also provided during dry wiping portion of the cycle (previously only during washer pump operation).
    - Previously, the GM would react to opposing signals (eg., an unlock signal while trying to lock, as with a defective microswitch) by carrying out the first command, then the opposing command (e.g., locking, followed immediately by unlocking).
    Repeating the first command then results in carrying out that command (e.g., try to lock again, and locking is now carried out).
    This function ("Asynchronous Position") is omitted in the new GM for all E32 models and E34 models prior to 9/91 (P/N 61 35 8 356 095), and remains in the new GM for E34 models after 9/91 (P/N 61 35 8 355 812) only for central locking commands "lock" and "double-lock".
    - After unlocking is performed due to crash sensor activation, the locking command is now reactivated by double-locking with the key from either the driver's or passenger's door.
    - The "one-touch" operation of windows has been expanded to include all four windows in the opening direction. The driver's window still has "one-touch" operation in both opening and closing directions. Interruption of the "one-touch" feature of the driver's window in the closing direction is still accomplished by depressing any window switch (in any direction), or by depressing the sunroof switch in the "tilt" direction (provided the sunroof is not already in the "tilt" position). Interruption of the "one-touch" feature of the sunroof in the closing direction is still accomplished by depressing the sunroof switch (in any direction).
    - The switch-off delay of the interior lights which occurs after entering the vehicle and closing the driver's door has been reduced from 20 seconds to 15 seconds.

    location of GM http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/elec.../rearseat.html

    the cylinder is the least one which breaks.
    Last edited by shogun; 01-17-2019 at 03:06 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Fort Wayne Indiana USA
    Posts
    53
    My Cars
    1991 BMW 750il.

    Angry What! No!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tarponhuntr View Post
    Our mechanic has told me that we need a new cylinder, and that we would have to then change the other locks, and the keys, thus causing us to also have to replace the ignition switch.
    Not sure what your mechanic is thinking. I would question them thoroughly! Maybe he thinks it would be cheaper to replace all the locks? That's BS! I'd run from the shop like I was on fire. RAPE! RAPE! I just went through my drivers door lock. Bought this kit and did some repairs. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ft-51218105491

    SMH
    20190104_144449.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    United States
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    75
    My Cars
    1989 BMW 735i
    Quote Originally Posted by Narly9999 View Post
    Not sure what your mechanic is thinking. I would question them thoroughly! Maybe he thinks it would be cheaper to replace all the locks? That's BS! I'd run from the shop like I was on fire. RAPE! RAPE! I just went through my drivers door lock. Bought this kit and did some repairs. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ft-51218105491

    SMH
    20190104_144449.jpg
    I kind of thought the same thing, and I'm beginning to distrust my mechanic more and more.
    The first time we took Ed in for the stumble on takeoff combined with backfire and sulphur smell, he simply "scraped" the inside of the distributor and said he just thought it was carbon buildup.
    When I asked him about the ringing noise during cranking, he said, "Oh that's normal on these old ones, the bendix just gets hung up".
    Unfortunately, he's all we have within a reasonable driving distance.
    I'm going to have to get very familiar with our boy, very quickly, I'm afraid.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Fort Wayne Indiana USA
    Posts
    53
    My Cars
    1991 BMW 750il.
    I'm afraid of mechanics. Although I do ask some a lot of questions. I've stopped asking them anything in the past decades. I figure it out for myself or look it up. Lucky me my library has a well stocked shelf of automotive and motorcycle books for about anything you would dream of. Turns out, reading is very handy. 8-)

    I just finished with the lock on my e32 and had to buy a scrap yard lock system. Lucky they had one to match! A new one is about $250 online. I think mine was $16 used.

    As for your issue; I think your inner actuator mount may be broken or the actuator is loose. A quick pull of the door panel and inspection would give a clue probably. I was having a similar issue of the unlocking being finicky. Infact my passenger door still is and I will have to check it out some day. It partially unlocks then won't open. If I turn the key a few more times, in the unlock direction only, it moves just a tiny bit so I can open it.

    If it makes you feel any better about your mechanic. My local dealer wouldn't even look at it for less then $1,500. And all they would do for that amount is look at it! 8-) Level two inspection.

    Let me know if you want a video on removing the door panel.

    One can never say what the issue is for sure until they see it. Even then it might be an optical illusion. 8-)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Narly9999; 01-21-2019 at 04:52 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Fort Wayne Indiana USA
    Posts
    53
    My Cars
    1991 BMW 750il.
    shogun is the man around here though. This link shows the broken mount/bracket. http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...k_bracket.html I repaired mine in the same way. Seems it was the thing to do.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    United States
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    My Cars
    1989 BMW 735i
    I will need to pull the door for certain. My biggest concern is not the actual work, but the fear of all those nearly 30 year old clips not making the return trip, and not having the proper ones to replace them with on hand. �� However, after looking at some of the repair kits with all the little metal washer looking pieces, that's a little daunting. I envision 1000 little springs all going off at once.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Japan
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    I would not yet buy any lock wafers, they usually last long. First remove the door panel and make an inspection and then order parts. You do not yet know what is broken.
    Grommets you have to order in advance, they have to be replaced anyway, part numbers in my link above.
    10 door Trim Panel Clips 51411973500 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=51411973500
    And then some
    per door 2 51321938884 Sliding piece for the window lift, good chance to to do that now when the door panel is off http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_0402
    1 as spare, item 10 Clamp 51411908855 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_1538
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Fort Wayne Indiana USA
    Posts
    53
    My Cars
    1991 BMW 750il.
    I share in the skepticism that the tumbler isn't the issue. Best to pull the system apart and see what you need to order. Unless it's all peanuts for you. Then order away! 8-) Can always eBay them(Maybe). And I think some places allow returns(Maybe not).

    There are many websites globally that sell parts and generally have these parts in stock. Watch out for the cheaper places aren't soaked with shipping. Some places offer free shipping but have higher prices YET they are the most cost effective because the shipping isn't $35 for a 5 dollar part. 8-/ ECStuning, FCP, Pelican, Rockauto, realoem? and of course a myriad of other site. A search for BMW e32 parts will render a list.

    I found bmwfans.info to be a nice way to look up parts and see how things are possibly coming apart. The shop manual helps but it can lack little details.


    Yes, there is a spring for each tumbler wafer. But they are generally stuck in the tumbler with pasty grease. Of course, the kit has no grease yet. 8-) If you end up getting the kit, be sure to lay out an old towel on a table or something somewhere. As the wafers tend to not wear much, the keys do. Local guy(A lock smith) here has a digital cutting machine that decodes the key and cuts a new one to the proper tolerances. There should be someone in your area as well?


    BUT!

    One thing about the kit. It has a new flexible seal and tumbler and tiny ball. 8-) And it's SHINY! Ooh!! Shiny Objects!! 8-) *enjoy my comedy!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    United States
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    My Cars
    1989 BMW 735i
    Not tiny shiney balls!!! I'll never get this thing fixed if I have to use that kit then! Springs AND tiny shiny Balls!!??
    She'll just have to learn to lock and unlock him from the trunk latch then! The more I think this through, I am with you guys. I think there's something sticking besides the lock. Because the trunk latch will unlock all doors but the suspect one. Thanks for helping me think this through.
    Last edited by shogun; 04-09-2023 at 09:18 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Kuwait
    Posts
    36
    My Cars
    BMW 1988 750IL
    I would suggest having a spare key in your wallet too. I closed my door at a gas station with the keys in the ignition and the drivers lock locked and took all the other doors with it. When I asked the dealer here in Kuwait about door lock kits they said I had to special order a whole new door handle with lock assembly from Germany.
    I did that about 10 years ago for the front doors and within 4 years they both were acting up again. The passenger door wouldn't unlock all the way and the drivers would lock when you close the door and and sometimes wouldn't auto unlock with the key.

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