So I am redoing my whole rear end currently and just got some parts in. I still need to press out the old bushings. I am doing rtabs, inner and outer bushings/ball joints on upper and lower rear control arms, subframe bushings, and diff bushings. Is there a general rule on where to apply the force from the press or is it different for each piece?
Press metal not rubber. The outer metal sleeve is good. There are tons of threads with pictures on this.
If you have a press it's all pretty simple. Some of the parts might need some persuasion with at torch to get moving, at least the ball joints did for me on my 12-ton harbor freight press.
Press on the metal if you can. If you can't get the bushings out, use a hacksaw and cut through the rubber into the outer shell, then use a flat head and press in to compress the bushing. It will fall right out.
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I did see the hack saw method to cut through the bushing shell on youtube, great idea. I will be using a 20 ton press.
The press works well on some. Others are easier using a bearing removal/install kit.
I have a 20 ton press and these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U3CY8DK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&ps c=1
https://www.bimmerworld.com/E36-E46-Trailing-Arm-Bushing-Tool.html
The kit is very useful for things like rear ball joints where their location is difficult to get lined up on a big press.
The big press was great for rear wheel bearings and front ball joints and the like.
For ball joints press on the metal cage the joint sits in. Do not press on the boot or the ball itself. Youll ruin the boot and or ruin the joint itself.
For bushings press on the metal sleeve the bushing sits in. Some bushings sit recessed inside the metal sleeve and you can use a piece of flat stock across the top to push, just be sure the inner sleeve doesnt protrude past the outer sleeve. But as a general rule, you push on the outer most metal sleeve of a ball joint or bushing.
Yeah, press only on the outer metal sleeve. You want a pipe/socket/adapter which is barely narrower than the outer diameter of the ball joint so it only presses on the outer portion of the metal yet will clear the bore as you press it in.
The rear end ball joints don't take much force to get in. You can do it fine with a DIY tool from some threaded rod, or even just a mallet once you get them started. The big boys that you need the 20 ton press for are the ball joints in the front control arm. That's not to say you can't use the press if your rear trailing arms are completely off the car. It will press those joints in/out with little effort.
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