suspension problem

[hrtfxr]

I have recently bought a 1994 325ic, 5-speed. It has only 60K miles. The suspension ride is rough (compared to my 1995 325, auto, 86K) and the car is clean, always garaged, I would think. Besides being a little clunky, it seems unsteady over bumps and with crosswind. Not awful but not confidence inspiring. I think that the rubber suspension parts are maybe stiffened or rotted with the 25 dry years. Does this make sense?

[hrtfxr]

I have recently bought a 1994 325ic, 5-speed. It has only 60K miles. The suspension ride is rough (compared to my 1995 325, auto, 86K) and the car is clean, always garaged, I would think. Besides being a little clunky, it seems unsteady over bumps and with crosswind. Not awful but not confidence inspiring. I think that the rubber suspension parts are maybe stiffened or rotted with the 25 dry years. Does this make sense?

I just went out and looked under the car (after looking at youtube) and I see that, at the least, the control arm bushings are cracked and chunks out of them. I will order some. Doesn't look too hard, although my e46 bushings were hard and I don't have a lift this time.

[bluptgm3]

I would think that at least replace the Forward Lower Control Arm (FLCA) Bushings and the Rear Trailing Arm (RTA) Bushings.

Use the E36 M3 FLCABs and probably use the offset style from 1995M3. If you are not comfortable with installing offset bushings, then use the 1996+M3 centered bushings.

ALL E36 (Coupes and Sedans, well and Convertibles) use the same RTABs.

I have changed both with car on jack stands

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[hrtfxr]

YouTube scares me about the rear bushings. He had to use an air hammer to remove the old one from the housing and a ball joint tool for the install. I don't have th

at stuff....yet.
Will this kit remove and install it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-in-1-Ball...WdQr:rk:1:pf:0

[bluptgm3]

There are more appropriate tools on the market that I suggest you use unless you have lots of time and are mechanically inclined.
RTAB are ~ 2 hour job with proper tools.


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[hrtfxr]

OK. Will do the front. See how it drives. One project at a time. I found the tool, $75. I will buy it if I do it. Thanks

[hrtfxr]

All set to replace the control arm bushings and found that they were OK already. I thought they would be solid and they are not. Have empty spaces in them. Did find a tie rod loose. I replaced that and got an alignment. Seems good now. I was told by the alignment guy that the struts are a little loose. The corners all pass the bounce test. If they are a little "loose", I'm thinking mounts may be worn. I would just replace struts and mounts except I can't find quick struts for it and I am wary of compressing the springs. I bought coilovers but when I learned that the ride would suffer, sent them back.
I think they are alright and don't really need replacing now, but I would do it if I could find quick replacements reasonably just for the heck of it.
Any thoughts?

[bluptgm3]

Ground Control, TCKline, Turner all offer Koni based coilover kits, with street level springs offer a great ride. And there are others such as KW that can be very ‘streetable’ also. The down side of COs is that you will most likely need (at least) a 5mm wheel spacer up front.

Pull the strut assembly and take them to a shop to R-n-R the springs from your existing strut to the new struts. Sachs (OE), Koni, Bilstein all offer OE replacement level shocks/struts, with Koni and Bilstein being a higher quality OE replacement. KYB, Monroe and others offer entry level replacements. Replace the Rear Shock Mounts using BMW/Lemforder E46M3/Convertible RSMs.
I recommend purchasing all of the small bits such as the dust shield, bumper, and the various washers under the Guide Support/strut mount as these parts generally need replacement.
Look at www.realoem.com (use the last seven of your VIN) for part/part number requirements.


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