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Thread: exhaust bolts - midpipe to header connection

  1. #1
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    exhaust bolts - midpipe to header connection

    What is the best method of getting these broke loose? It seems it's not a straight shot to a portion of the bolts.

  2. #2
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    Wobble extension or swivel joint. I go with the wobble extension.

  3. #3
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    Don't break the stud! Fairly easy to do when removing the nuts.

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    Wobble extensions and a breaker bar, plus lots of PB blaster for at least 24 hours prior. If you break any it's not that big a deal to drill out and replace with a bolt/nut, and you should be prepared to do so. When I did mine recently I discovered that half the studs had already been replaced, probably by dealers/shops in the distant past.
    Last edited by TostitoBandito; 01-15-2019 at 11:39 PM.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  5. #5
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    Some will heat the area around in hopes to expand the area and get the bolt out, be careful not to fry the oxygen-sensor wires like mechanic once did on my car while doing a similar job. Cost me a bit more than I had bargained for... Spray w/ P.B. Blaster for 2 days before is good advice.

  6. #6
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Yeah, after letting the penetrating oil soak you should still be prepared to use a torch if necessary. Assuming you don't have an oxy-acetylene setup (I sure don't), MAPP is the next best. Many years ago I replaced the stock M10 bolts with hardware store stainless steel fasteners, still with the stock copper-flashed nuts, and so never have a problem in that area. Note that the stock M10 bolts are some fairly special alloy — I'd want to say Inconel, judging by their weight and $20+ each price, but surely that's not likely? — so you don't want to be buying those. Note that the '95 uses studs pressed into the exhaust manifold flanges, so replacing those is significantly more difficult than on the 96+, which uses loose bolts.

    @OP: It would be helpful to state your car's MY when asking for help. Better still, edit your profile accordingly — really, nobody cares that you have a 2017 F150.

    Neil

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilM View Post
    Note that the '95 uses studs pressed into the exhaust manifold flanges, so replacing those is significantly more difficult than on the 96+, which uses loose bolts.

    Neil
    Pretty sure my 98 has pressed in studs. That is my recollection.

  8. #8
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    Yeah they all have the pressed in studs from the factory. If you break one you drill/pound it out and replace with a steel bolt of the same size and pitch, and use the OEM copper nuts on them with antiseize as usual. The original studs are a little easier to deal with though due to you not needing to get a wrench on the back side of them. There's at least one bolt location in my car which is directly below the O2 bung and next to the engine block where it was a pain to get a wrench on the bolt. I had to go buy a short/stubby wrench specifically for that purpose so it would get on the bolt and not hit the engine block.
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  9. #9
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    Some are simply pressed in, some additionally have a tack weld on them.

    The process to fix a broken stud is not a fun one. Take your time and use the right tools. Penetrating oil let to soak for at least a half hour. Use a proper long handle ratchet/breaker bar for max leverage. I’ve yet to break a stud... but CA cars rarely have this issue.

  10. #10
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    I actually prefer just MAPP gas, and if that doesn't work, heat and cooling with water. I don't like oil. I find that the oil ends up being a mess in that area, and if you have to end up using a torch on the nuts, then it stinks because you're burning the oil.

    Sidetrack: I snapped one of these studs this past weekend, I was able to get it out of the flange and now it's just a hole. Where can I get the stud needed? I don't see a part # on Realoem. Or should I just go with bolt through/nut?
    Last edited by Hova; 01-17-2019 at 03:44 PM.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    I actually prefer just MAPP gas, and if that doesn't work, heat and cooling with water. I don't like oil. I find that the oil ends up being a mess in that area, and if you have to end up using a torch on the nuts, then it stinks because you're burning the oil.

    Sidetrack: I snapped one of these studs this past weekend, I was able to get it out of the flange and now it's just a hole. Where can I get the stud needed? I don't see a part # on Realoem. Or should I just go with bolt through/nut?

    #3? This is the S52. Part 11621427586
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BG93-USA---E36-BMW-M3&diagId=11_6070


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    I actually prefer just MAPP gas, and if that doesn't work, heat and cooling with water. I don't like oil. I find that the oil ends up being a mess in that area, and if you have to end up using a torch on the nuts, then it stinks because you're burning the oil.

    Sidetrack: I snapped one of these studs this past weekend, I was able to get it out of the flange and now it's just a hole. Where can I get the stud needed? I don't see a part # on Realoem. Or should I just go with bolt through/nut?
    One stud is ok to swallow, replacing all 6 is stupid expensive. The last Turner shorty header install I used bolts/nuts (they are studless). It works ok, only issue is holding the bolt from turning.

  13. #13
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    Ouch, $16 for one of them..
    Apparently they are made of Inconel. Thanks guys, I must have missed that on Realoem. Got a new one, all new copper nuts and new gaskets on order. Expensive order.

    Thanks guys.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    I actually prefer just MAPP gas, and if that doesn't work, heat and cooling with water. I don't like oil. I find that the oil ends up being a mess in that area, and if you have to end up using a torch on the nuts, then it stinks because you're burning the oil.

    Sidetrack: I snapped one of these studs this past weekend, I was able to get it out of the flange and now it's just a hole. Where can I get the stud needed? I don't see a part # on Realoem. Or should I just go with bolt through/nut?
    How did you remove the broken stud from the flange?

  15. #15
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hova View Post
    Ouch, $16 for one of them..
    Apparently they are made of Inconel.
    Which is why I use stainless instead.

    Neil

  16. #16
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    I've removed the studs from 2 sets of m52/s52 headers and have experimented with a few methods.

    As others stated, you need to get your O2 sensors out to avoid damaging them. Heat the flange with MAPP gas or an oxygen acetylene torch to expand it and then hammer or press it out. It needs to be at least a dull glow all the way around the stud. If you can press them out, it is better then hammering them to avoid damaging the header. I modified a wiper arm removal tool which worked pretty well, is compact and can be used without removing the header from the engine but for really stubborn ones it wasn't strong enough and just started to bend. The studs are very hard and tough to drill through but that is always an option, you need to use good bits, slow speed and lots of oil to keep from overheating the bits.

    The least convenient but most reliable method I have found is removing the header from the cylinder head, torching the flange and then using my bench vice and a socket to press the stud out. If I had more than one stud to remove, I would go straight to this method.

    I assume you have one to replace, where in VA are you?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by NeilM View Post
    Which is why I use stainless instead.

    Neil
    Same here

  17. #17
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    Good to know. I live in southwest va near Virginia Tech. I tried the penetrating oil and let it sit but broke two studs on same header during a guibo replacement.

    I've seen mechanics use an angle grinder to cut a small slit into the flange of header and broken stud. Then punch it out with a hammer. Don't think this is the proper way though.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    How did you remove the broken stud from the flange?

    I took the manifold off. I was going to use an air chisel and try to tap it out, but I was afraid I might be stressing the aluminum head too much. If those header studs in the engine stripped out... I'd be in a world of hurt.

    Once off the car, I put the header on a vise, heated up the flange with MAPP, and used a air chisel to tap it out. Also cleaned up the surface nicely too, so it worked out well.

    I'm sure other people have better options than mine, but it seemed like the most straight forward and least risk.
    Last edited by Hova; 01-18-2019 at 08:15 PM.
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