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Thread: 97 540i Won't Run/Barely Starts then Dies.

  1. #1
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    97 540i Won't Run/Barely Starts then Dies.

    1997 BMW 540i Manual Transmission
    Awesome car got it for a steal of a deal off CL, very fast and powerful.

    Any advice or insight is greatly appreciated.
    The car was having trouble starting here and there for a few weeks, not regularly, not major.
    Ran fine a few days ago, then yesterday I was warming it up in the garage, I came back to it and it was off, it was very difficult to start and I was running late for an important appointment, so I managed to force it to start by repeatedly turning the key until the engine engaged and pressing the accelerator to just enough to keep it on, and shifting back and forth from 1 to R, until I got it up to 2nd or 3rd then I drove a few km to where I needed to be, it would not go very fast or rev very high, I didn't stop at all until I parked at my destination.

    When I was done, I had the same trouble getting the car running, but when I got going it was way worse, it would only go about 5mph I think.
    It felt like I was not actually in gear properly, like that small propulsion you seem to get when an automatic is in drive without accelerator being pushed.

    The car moved very slow, and it would not get to proper RPM's. Then it kept dying until it would not run at all and eventually wouldn't start.
    My axle also locked up when the battery got too dead to start.

    I got towed home.
    After recharging my battery, the car struggles to start, when it does it shakes almost violently, Tachometer reads under 1kRPM and attempting to press the accelerator just kills the car.

    Note
    *I do not have a diagnostic tool yet, but was just informed here that I can actually afford one, so I'll have one as soon as I can get one.

    *My speedometer quit working a few days before this while coming back from across the state. I have read this is a common issue and is likely a sensor. I am relying on Navigation app speedometer until I can afford to replace the sensor.

    *I will be fixing the car myself. Even if I could afford to have a mechanic work on it, I only trust once active mechanic, and I detest being overcharged, or paying for something I can do myself. I just like fixing cars myself, it's fun and rewarding. Though also frustrating and even infuriating at times.

    *I will absolutely not go to the stealership.

    *A specialty mechanic shop is an absolute last resort.
    Though there is a shop half way across the metro area, I cannot afford it and I only trust two mechanics, one is down the road I grew up with his son, the other is off the grid now, but neither of them specialize in BMW.

    *I'm going to have to borrow money to fix this so I need to narrow it down and know almost certainly what needs replaced or repaired to regain functionality before any substantial money is spent.
    Last edited by Falcon93; 01-15-2019 at 07:30 PM. Reason: update

  2. #2
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    whats an expensive diagnostic unit to you? if you have a laptop, you could get the INPA suite and cable for $25 or so. for a handheld unit, the creator 310 is liked by many (myself included), around $70, heard it can be found for a bit less. one thing id look at with your engine issue is the fuel pressure. i dont think your Y/M had a measurement port, could rig up something easily enough, while adding a schrader valve and using a pressure tester, a pencil type tire pressure gauge will do the job. as far as your speedo, are you getting the ABS/DCS lights? same for the CEL for your engine issues. codes are a necessity for folks hereabouts to be able to help you from a distance.either of the two above mentioned diagnostic readers will more than pay for itself in one trip to a shop to have the codes read, youll still have it after, and theres so many other things you can monitor and troubleshoot with them. id hate to see you throwing parts at the car for not getting the codes.

  3. #3
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    EXOTICS
    A scan for codes will help narrow the possibilities, and provide clues to the correct path for repair.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattmar1 View Post
    INPA suite and cable for $25 or so.
    synched to my laptop AWESOME!
    I can do that.

    I have been really wanting one for a while but only knew of ones that where a couple hundred that worked on pre ODB2 BMW.
    Now that I recall who told me that... I should have known not to take their word for it. lol
    I should have just spent more time looking up diagnostic tools. I could already have had one.

    Thanks for tips!
    Last edited by Falcon93; 01-15-2019 at 07:40 PM. Reason: touch up

  5. #5
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    As far as the dash light indicators go, I can't say with certainty, all the lights come on when key turn positions before start, and the car won't start now without being charged as it needs repetitive key turning to start, and I don't want to wear to far on the batter or starter.

    However Yes the ABS is on as far as I can tell without starting the engine, and I think that is a new development.
    The CEL has been on since I bought it, the guy I got it from claims that the owner before him put a new engine in it, and didn't clear the codes.
    What I don't remember seeing before my last trip across state just before this happened, is the CEL blinking. Had to get home before I could do anything about it...
    I must have forgot about that when I posted.
    Last edited by Falcon93; 01-15-2019 at 08:18 PM.

  6. #6
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    As far as the indicator lights go I can't say for certain, as when the key is turned to positions before start it shows ABS and CEL, but the car won't start now without connection to charger, as it now needs repetitive key turns to start, and I don't want to wear to far on the battery or starter.

    However Yes as far as I can tell ABS is illuminated.
    I think that is a new development.

    CEL has been illuminated since I bought the car, the guy I bought it claimed the owner before him had a new engine put in and didn't get the codes cleared.
    What I don't remember before my way back on my last trip across state just before this happened, is the CEL blinking.
    I knew that wasn't good, but had to get home to do anything about it.
    Somehow I forgot to list the indicators in my original post. Good thinking Mat.

  7. #7
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Snipped down to the important bits...

    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon93 View Post
    Awesome car got it for a steal of a deal off CL, very fast and powerful.

    force it to start by repeatedly turning the key until the engine engaged and pressing the accelerator to just enough to keep it on, and shifting back and forth from 1 to R, until I got it up to 2nd or 3rd then I drove a few km to where I needed to be, it would not go very fast or rev very high, I didn't stop at all until I parked at my destination.

    When I was done, I had the same trouble getting the car running, but when I got going it was way worse, it would only go about 5mph I think.
    It felt like I was not actually in gear properly, like that small propulsion you seem to get when an automatic is in drive without accelerator being pushed.

    The car moved very slow, and it would not get to proper RPM's. Then it kept dying until it would not run at all and eventually wouldn't start.
    My axle also locked up when the battery got too dead to start.

    I got towed home.
    After recharging my battery, the car struggles to start, when it does it shakes almost violently, Tachometer reads under 1kRPM and attempting to press the accelerator just kills the car.

    *My speedometer quit working a few days before this while coming back from across the state.

    *I will be fixing the car myself. Even if I could afford to have a mechanic work on it, I only trust once active mechanic,

    *A specialty mechanic shop is an absolute last resort.
    Though there is a shop half way across the metro area, I cannot afford it and I only trust two mechanics, one is down the road I grew up with his son, the other is off the grid now, but neither of them specialize in BMW.

    *I'm going to have to borrow money to fix this so I need to narrow it down and know almost certainly what needs replaced or repaired to regain functionality before any substantial money is spent.
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon93 View Post
    CEL has been illuminated since I bought the car, the guy I bought it claimed the owner before him had a new engine put in and didn't get the codes cleared.
    What I don't remember before my way back on my last trip across state just before this happened, is the CEL blinking.
    I knew that wasn't good, but had to get home to do anything about it. .
    Ugh. Train wreck. Some of that makes no sense at all (you got it running by shifting from R to 1 until you could get to 2? “Axle locked up” ? Do you really mean axle? Rear axles? Both wheels? Or do you mean crankshaft?)

    Let's start here. Correction: car was not a steal.

    An old worn out 540 with lots of stuff wrong isnt a steal unless there's $5000 of unmarked bills and a brick of cocaine in the trunk. Sounds like a real real bad choice for somebody who has an irrational distrust of mechanics and is on a real tight budget. Any 540 is a poor choice for somebody on a budget honestly let alone one w lotsa problems. These cars are not kind mistresses for a budget. They are labors of love for the slightly retarded and delusional.

    Next: The seller was lying. They do that. They (sellers) are far more of a legitimate population to distrust than mechanics. Very very unlikely that the car had an engine put in. But who knows. Bunch of crap is likely wrong with this car.

    Should I try and be helpful, or just a dick? Being a dick is so much more fun. Ok ok...

    Running problem could be fuel pump. Most of the starting and running won't rev etc. symptoms could be very consistent with that. Having a few rough starts here and there before FP crapped the bed entirely would be fairly Typical.

    The "locked axle" is confusing though and might contradict that once I understand what you mean, but maybe you'll clarify. The battery might be crapped out too. Yeah I know you charged it but it could be junk and not really delivering full cranking amps anymore. These cars will not run properly on low volts so if the battery or alternator are cooked then that could be an issue too.
    Last edited by geargrinder; 01-16-2019 at 12:07 AM.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Snipped down to the important bits...
    ... These cars are not kind mistresses for a budget. They are labors of love for the slightly retarded and delusional.
    That is probably the wisest piece of advice...ROFL..

    So, the "locked axle" problems as described sounds like a severe case of the transmission going in "failsafe" mode. This could be caused by a weakening or bad battery or alternator.
    Add in a possible clogged fuel filter, pump, or lines that probably have never been changed, and you get the symptoms you are describing.

  9. #9
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chedley View Post
    So, the "locked axle" problems as described sounds like a severe case of the transmission going in "failsafe" mode.
    Yeah Cheds I thought that too for a second, but was confused because I thought I remembered he said...

    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon93 View Post
    1997 BMW 540i Manual Transmission
    So... errrmmmm OK. I mean I can think of a host of 'locked up wheel' possibilities including blown up clutches and diffs and (actual) axles and seized brakes but none of them really consistent with ALL the symptoms (cant be stuck in gear because he talks about being able to shift it still...) the descriptions above are just really confusing. I suppose there's the possibility that inside the tranny the shifting shafts get desynchronized and the box gets put in 2 gears at once, resulting in a locked up tranny, but that's nearly impossible to accomplish without some level of trans disassembly, and, the car wouldn't move at all then (and still should idle fine unless bizarrely the clutch exploded and jammed at the same time).
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  10. #10
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    If you knew how little I paid for it, and saw the car... it was well worth the cost, as has anyone who rides in tells me.
    And my distrust of mechanics is not irrational, I have seen some absolute scum bag mechanics do some really shady ****.
    I am also a former car sales man so I know all about the bs that goes down at stealerships.
    I return to another company in a different field of sales next month that I am way better at(was top sales rep last summer) and has better business practices.
    I will have allot more money at that point for a list of minor cosmetic fixes for the car and anything else that goes wrong, but getting the car running to get there is an immediate priority.

    I will not continue to rebuttal any further unsolicited nonsense. If you want to help, feel free. If not go elsewhere.

    Perhaps the axle itself wasn't locked up.
    What I do know is when the battery died [from repetitive restarts] on a hill, it was staying put without E brake, and even when I put it in reverse. After charging the battery the locking was no longer in effect.

  11. #11
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    1. I'll go wherever I like thanks.
    2. I am helping. Don't be so sensie.
    3. I would never argue there arent scumbag mechanics. But there are also plenty of good ones. Like any field. The art is in being able to figure out which is which of course. By the way before you get all waaah thread jack, you are the one who brought it up.
    4. Ok back to the helping.

    Based on that additional description, maybe you do have something like a frozen brake caliper. That is the kind of thing that can go away just like you describe when an overheated brake caliper cools down. It could also explain the not being able to exceed a certain speed. Do you have a lot of brake dust on one wheel? More than the others? That is almost always a telltale sign that will be there in a seized brake situation. That however would not explain the failure to start in neutral, unless somehow the transmission and clutch had also failed somehow. I would call your attention back to my suggestion about the fuel pump which is IMO still the most likely for the starting and idling problem. Unless there’s some other info you haven’t shared yet.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  12. #12
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    Ill check the brake dust.
    Fuel Pump would make sense.
    Trying to find a local store that sells the INPA or any USB to OBD cord but noone has it, I'm still not entirely sure exactly what diagnostic tool and possible adapters I need, everytime I look this stuff up I get conflicted information, regardless noone around here carries INPA.
    Looks like I'll have to wait for online purchase delivery....
    Last edited by Falcon93; 01-16-2019 at 01:51 PM.

  13. #13
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    Also forgot to mention I've already tried disconnecting the MAF, which made no difference.

  14. #14
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    Can anyone tell me exactly what type of diagnostic and adapted I need?
    I see so many types, various amounts of Pins, etc, very overwhelming to sort through.

  15. #15
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    youll need the 16 pin OBDII cable supplied for the INPA interface, as well as a 16 to 20 pin adapter to talk to your car.. doubt youll find the cable/software at a retail store, online is about it.

  16. #16
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    OK Thank You!

  17. #17
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    Trying to find one that will ship from the USA. Which seems to elude my searches.
    Otherwise I might just tow the car to the shop.
    Every time I order international it takes too long.
    Time is just as valuable as money. My car sat for a month over some EWS bull****. I can't do that again.

    Plus I am minimizing all purchases from china since their govt implemented the social credit system, making it even more dystonian for their poor citizens.

    Any diagnostic/repair advice is still greatly appreciated
    Last edited by Falcon93; 01-16-2019 at 03:42 PM.

  18. #18
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    trying to find the 20 to 16 pin adapter shipped from the USA?? all over the place on the big ol eauction site.

    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...c&LH_PrefLoc=1

    btw, the adapter is used to read from the 20 pin connection (the pacman) connector for all modules except the DME and Trans. for those 2, utilize the 16 pin OBDII underdash connector.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon93 View Post

    Any diagnostic/repair advice is still greatly appreciated
    Ok, here goes...

    1. Replace the battery with a new fully charged battery. Also buy a battery maintainer. That is about a couple hundreds dollars cost, that will save you thousands of dollars, really..!!

    2. Best BMW professional diagnostic tool: Order the INPA cable with the switch, from Ebay. It is about $25. Then download and install INPA software on a Windows laptop.

    3. As geargrinder advised, check the fuel pump/filter and brakes/calipers. Something is fishy there.

    4. Last -but not least- try to be courteous to the folks on this board. Their advice could save you thousands of dollars in repairs, literally..!!

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