Hey guys.
I need to check on the bare 420g transmission weight. Real OEM says 46.5 kilos. Could somebody have one around and weight it?
Thanks in advance.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
I weighed mine when I pulled it to do the clutch, 105Lbs.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
It did have oil in it and the guibo was attached, no slave cylinder, clutch arm, shift linkage.
Great Jim. Looks like I can import one, then. My limit is 50 kilos. I know, I know, I hate 420Gs, but I hate the slushbox more.
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Since you and GG are like the local resident experts in all things swap related, if I were to scavenge a M5, I can use the front part of the driveshaft but not the rear, right? Also, the neutral switch on the M5 box could theoretically be wired as the clutch interlock so if the tranny isn't in N the car won't start ?
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
LOL. After about 10 posts lately about how awful and miserable the 420G is..!
Just try best to get a good non-abused one. That makes a difference in how less-miserable you're going to be with it.
Yes you can use halves of the propshafts (as the Brits would say), front half M5/540 are the same, rears are different because the M5 diff has a big nose.
Coding a 540i for safety-start is easy option in NCS, and yes that should work. Basically on an M5 the 'gear position sensor' (really a neutral sensor since it doesn't detect any particular gear) is wired up in series with the clutch switch, so they obviously function the same way (i.e. as far as an M5 DME is concerned it doesn't know whether the clutch is pushed in, or, the clutch is out but gear is in neutral... it just knows the rear wheels are not engaged one way or another...).
That said, you'll want the clutch switch anyway, otherwise you won't have cruise, and ipso facto, if you have the clutch switch, you don't need the GPS, so , you'd basically just leave it there unconnected and not bother running any wires to it.
I have a 420G "down cellar" as a proper Masshole would say, but weighing it isn't gonna give you much more info than Jim since it too is full of gearjuice.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I was just trying to convince myself I don't need a manual swap with the 420g but the G6S-53BZ thingy I had in mind is way more complicated.
I've been going back and forth and it's just like when I first got the car, I want THIS car and not sell it and get another one. I like my body and engine, and I already have the 3.15 differential in it... plus I've spent a sh*tload of money in this chassis and I've grown accustomed and fond to this car.
Right, so I can get the front half out of the M5 if I won't be swapping differentials. That's what I thought.Just try best to get a good non-abused one. That makes a difference in how less-miserable you're going to be with it.
Yes you can use halves of the propshafts (as the Brits would say), front half M5/540 are the same, rears are different because the M5 diff has a big nose.
Danke schon my friends! Looks like even with juice in it, it fits my weight limitations. I'll need to have the tranny alone shipped in one box and the other misc stuff on other. Regarding cruise control, haven't thought of it as I rarely use it, I guess I'll follow your suggestion and use it. Would a manual tranny harness be of use? from a 540i that is. It would save some hassle in my rewiring? I've printed up your outrageusly and excellently detailed swap guide already.Coding a 540i for safety-start is easy option in NCS, and yes that should work. Basically on an M5 the 'gear position sensor' (really a neutral sensor since it doesn't detect any particular gear) is wired up in series with the clutch switch, so they obviously function the same way (i.e. as far as an M5 DME is concerned it doesn't know whether the clutch is pushed in, or, the clutch is out but gear is in neutral... it just knows the rear wheels are not engaged one way or another...).
That said, you'll want the clutch switch anyway, otherwise you won't have cruise, and ipso facto, if you have the clutch switch, you don't need the GPS, so , you'd basically just leave it there unconnected and not bother running any wires to it.
I have a 420G "down cellar" as a proper Masshole would say, but weighing it isn't gonna give you much more info than Jim since it too is full of gearjuice.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
No don't bother with the harness at all. The wiring isn't too complicated. You'll repurpose a few of the auto-tranny wires as I think I outline.
Deleting the auto-start is the conceptually trickiest bit. Mine is wired like a factory manual (as I think I say in the write up) but the cheater shortcut from Trevor (007008) is really the way to go, its clever and crazy easy.
The late clutch (again I think this is in the writeup) switch is actually TWO hall sensor type switches in one little chip.
What kind of pedal cluster do you have in the 540i? Top-hung-transition-style, or full-floor-DBW-pedal? I have been meaning to post up a 'bracketology' post, maybe this is the impetus to get around to that... Stand by maybe I'll knock that out during lunch...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I like the "OEM" way and I think I'll go that way. (rewiring like you did, I like how clean it's done, although I understand it takes a tad more involvement. Just as I will follow and remove the EWS fat always hot wire instead of just capping it.
I have the M5 style pedal bracket, DBW top hung pot. My car is built 30/8/99the late clutch (again I think this is in the writeup) switch is actually TWO hall sensor type switches in one little chip.
What kind of pedal cluster do you have in the 540i? Top-hung-transition-style, or full-floor-DBW-pedal? I have been meaning to post up a 'bracketology' post, maybe this is the impetus to get around to that... Stand by maybe I'll knock that out during lunch...
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Bracketology:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ons&p=30183745
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me
I do not believe in a risk free society where the thrill of living is traded for the safety of existence. Nick Ienatsch
The law does NOT determine "right" from "wrong". They are unrelated.
If you put cheap parts on your car, you will soon have a cheap parts car.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
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