Sucking jet pump damaged during intake manifold removal

[Schreier]

I extracted the intake manifold from my roadster, but not without considerable difficulty. The biggest problem I had was concerning the "sucking jet pump", which supplies vacuum to the brake booster. I didn't see any clear way to detach it, promptly forgot about it, and accidentally broke it when yanking the intake manifold out.

Here's the two parts: one still attached to the brake booster, and one still attached to the intake manifold:

IMG_20190113_184719770.jpg

IMG_20190113_184756354.jpg

It looks like a clean enough break. So my questions now are:

A) What was the proper method to remove this? Yank it directly from the brake booster? Clip the one-time use clamps, and pull the hose out at the nipple? I haven't seen this covered in the Bentley manual, or any of the intake manifold removal guides I've come across.

B) Is this something I could just epoxy back together? The two parts still match perfectly. It's a $100 part and I'd like to salvage it if at all possible. But then again, if my fix fails, I would be taking off the intake manifold all over again.

Here's the RealOEM diagram of the part (#1), 11611439396:

diag_n90.png

[Adker]

From what I see in the pictures, it appears you didn't break the plastic, it just pulled apart. If that is the case, some superglue should bond it back together. To take off the hose, you need to cut off the metal band. I replace the band crimp type clamp with a constant tension (spring) clamp.

[s8ilver]

I find that a tiny flat head screw driver can "uncrimp" those. I've even reused a few of those one-time use clamps.

[Schreier]

Thanks for the input. It is indeed separated at the cap. I'm willing now to try to glue or epoxy this back together. I've since found some videos that indicate how it's meant to properly operate, so it should be easy to test to see if it's leaking any pressure.

I was initially hesitant to try a fix, given the price. The price led me to believe it's an especially sensitive part, but it seems to be pricey simply based upon availability and is actually no more sophisticated than a check valve.

But why the crimp clamps? Any chance there would be a problem by switching to worm-gear type hose clamps?

[s8ilver]

But why the crimp clamps? Any chance there would be a problem by switching to worm-gear type hose clamps?

No real issue switching. The Oetiker clamps are simply much faster to use during manufacturing. I like the look of them (and the fact that they don't ever loosen), so I do replace factory clamps with like-style. You can buy a box of 50 or 75 in several sizes on Amazon for the price that BMW would charge for 3 or 4 clamps. The crimp tools are kinda fun to use too. I ALWAYS use these on CV boots, or course in much larger diameters.

https://www.amazon.com/Didamx-7-21mm...r+clamps&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-120Pcs...oetiker+clamps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3H6UIC...547566557&sr=1

[aristoc]

would love to know if this repair was done and if it worked? For me I have some slight oozing of bubbles around that joint while doing a recent smoke test. ?

[Pima Roadster]

The Oetiker clamp provides constant pressure through heat cycles. Here is a link to where I purchase them.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3295

[s8ilver]

The Oetiker clamp provides constant pressure through heat cycles. Here is a link to where I purchase them.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3295

I use them just about everywhere. They look way better than worm clamps too, IMO of course.

[RavSinghRajput]

I use them just about everywhere. They look way better than worm clamps too, IMO of course.

They do look better but I'm using the spring clamp to tie the hose which is under the sucking jet pump. I have similar situation, and I end up buying the jet pump with the lower house attached to it. I'll use screwdriver to remove the original clamps (Oetiker clamp) and will replace it with spring clamps, especially the ones which doesn't have much room.