Preferred Valve Cover Gasket? Sealant?

[somecarguy]

I have what looks to be the common valve cover gasket leak. I see that the Reinz has a silicone bead, its also the least expensive and a known brand. All these steer me in that direction. Any other wisdom here?

Do you all use some Curil T or other sealant on the gasket and or rocker shaft seals?


https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/32...989&m=20&e=177

[R Shaffner]

Someone I respect highly on the e39 forum, JimLev, strongly recommended Permatex Permashield #85420.

As for me, I usually like to give the cheap/easy solution a chance to work first. For an M62 valve cover or intake leak, that means adding a washer to the nuts to squeeze the gasket just a little tighter. (Not too much. You don't want to strip the aluminum threads, of course.)

I first tried that after installing a new gasket and found that it still had a slow leak on the lower rear edge. Adding a second washer to the lower nuts in that area took care of the problem.

[bluptgm3]

I am a fan of OE gaskets, though my son bought a Fel-Pro. I got new shaft seals.

Of the aftermarket brands I’d trust, Elring. Otherwise OE.

With this engine, I don’t see the need for sealant, but if I did, I’d use small dabs of Permatext #2 non-hardening at the transitions to the shaft seals.

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[superj]

I have never had to use any sealant on the valve cover gasket

[nathanmckee325i]

I have a Victor Reinz valve cover gasket to go on mine, and have heard good things about them. If you feel like doing a make-your-own gasket, Permatex's "Right Stuff" is great. Used it on a few different vehicles with great performance. Personally, I'd just go with the VR gasket without any extra sealant. Just to keep it simple.

[R Shaffner]

I'm pretty sure the manual says to put sealant along the curved sections at the back (in line with the camshafts), and above the joints between the front cover and the head. And personally, I couldn't get the gaskets to stay in place without putting sealant on and let it get tacky before assembly.

One other thing: Be sure to use new rubber grommets under the nuts! Old ones get hard and shrink, which reduces the clamping force on the gaskets.

[aaverhulst]

Don't forget the little rubber plugs
11331264519 https://www.amazon.com/11121730229-Engine-Valve-Gasket-11331264519/dp/B00AADVBB4

[somecarguy]

Yup I ordered the rocker arm end seals (4). What are the rubber o rings (?) under the nuts mentioned?

[superj]

I never knew you had to put anything under the nuts. mine had aluminum washers so I figured those just squished to fit the hole, ha ha ha

[aaverhulst]

I don't think the M20 has little rubber washers. Also I've never had a problem with what I call excessive leaking on a valve cover gasket no matter the brand. After awhile I always get small seeps, no drips. And they are easy and cheap to replace so why worry.

[bluptgm3]

I'm pretty sure the manual says to put sealant along the curved sections at the back (in line with the camshafts), and above the joints between the front cover and the head. And personally, I couldn't get the gaskets to stay in place without putting sealant on and let it get tacky before assembly.

One other thing: Be sure to use new rubber grommets under the nuts! Old ones get hard and shrink, which reduces the clamping force on the gaskets.

No grommets on an M20 VC as I recall. Mine has studs with nuts.

M/S5X VC has the grommets. I have only ever used a small dab of Permatex #2 at the corners of the ‘half moons’ and at the VaNos cover seams.

For the M/S5X VC gasket can be attached to VC with thread at the attach points, removing the thread before installing the fasteners.

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[R Shaffner]

My bad. Sorry. Different engine. (Got my threads confused.)

[richardodn]

My preference when doing valve covers is.

1. Make sure the cover is not warped.
2. On the cam plugs, apply an extremely thin layer of silicone sealer to the faces that go into the head casting. Then a small dab of the same where the head and plug meet on the mounting face.
3. Drop the gasket in place over the studs and then the cover.
4. Tighten the cover down using a torque wrench and new nylon insert lock nuts
5. Retorque again in a month or two.

You should be able to reuse the same gasket a couple of times to do the rocker adjustments before you need to replace it again. The plugs will last much longer.

[somecarguy]

So this job was of course not hard. The old rocker plugs were brittle and hard like plastic, bmw stamped parts. The Elring replacements fit nicely but even driving then home with a plastic drift and deadblow the sat somewhat high. In theory this is better than them sitting low provided the 11 ft lbs squashed them. Lack of obvious leaks suggested it did.


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