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Thread: Minimal wiring for an E36 325i '94 (trackcar)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    My Cars
    E36 325i

    Minimal wiring for an E36 325i '94 (trackcar)

    Hey guys,

    I've got a E36 325i 94' and having some issues.

    It's a track only car, so I have no interest in unnecessary accessoires etc.. But I'd like to keep my wiring as simple as possible. Power up, ignition on, (acc needed for cluster etc?) and start.
    I'm installing a switch panel with flip switches, start button and a kill switchs offcourse. I'm undecided about the switches and the start button. I've seen allot of different ways how people do this, so this kinda confuses me on what the best way is right now..
    I'm using the most of the standard wiring loom, no EWS thankfully.
    Also, when I look at my ignition switch wiring I cannot see a Yellow/Black cable, I believe a Green/Cable is the same one?

    If anyone would have a simple and clear wiring diagram of their (track) setup, that'd be great
    What about the wiring for the fuel pump? Leave it as is in the standard loom?



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Northeast PA
    My Cars
    3 - E30 M3s, '04 Ford F350, '06 Audi A3
    Sooooooooo, Sooooooooo, Sooooooooo Much easier to take it all out down to the shell and start from scratch.
    I "know" so many people think "i'll just prune the stock wiring harness down",,, I cant say enough how much easier it is to just do it from scratch.
    You need maybe 3-4 gauges of wire.
    Buy some Tefzel (just buy all white Tefzel), heat shrink, good non insulated crimps and crimpers, some labels, the switch gear of your choice, a handfull of buss bars and terminal blocks and just do it from scratch.

    Poke around the links below. Everything you would ever want is there:

    I promise you will be amazed at how little wire is actually needed to run a real race car and how easy it is to do it from scratch vs sitting with an ETM and scratching you head.
    I find it much more fun and gratifying to do it from scratch. Pruning is a complete pain in the ass, takes way more time and its never as clean as doing it from scratch.
    Last edited by jimmypet; 01-12-2019 at 11:36 PM.
    jimmy p.

    88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - street
    88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU
    87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car 2.0 Litre
    04 Ford F350 - V10
    06 Audi A3 Brilliant Red / 2.0 / DSG

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    My Cars
    E36 325i
    Hey Jimmy,

    Thank you for your reply! You're right, I've spent quite some time taking out wires and connectors I don't need as where I would've better spent that time on making a small simple loom.
    Only to figure out how to wire everthing properly, thanks!
    Last edited by Kevincorsius; 01-13-2019 at 06:19 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Springfield, IL
    My Cars
    Bought relay blocks, fuse blocks, and multicolored automotive wiring and followed lt1swap website instructions. It was a lot of fun, just DO IT RIGHT the first time. Wire length, panel layout, fuse layout etc.

    You can get multicolored automotive wiring on ebay for a great price.
    Last edited by olemiss540; 01-13-2019 at 06:28 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    asheville nc
    My Cars
    89 318
    Even easier is to use one of these power distribution modules. Just connect the power wire from your alternator and then connect anything you want to connect and you can program in the max amps for each channel. The switch panel is connected via CAN so you can have up to 12 switches with only a 4 wire connection, and each of those switches can be programed to perform in different ways depending on what you are trying to control. Plus you can connect to your ECU via CAN to have the ECU control things through the PMU if you desire.

    Price seems high but if you are starting from zero the cost of fuse blocks, relay blocks, and switches adds up in a hurry.

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