So today my road to my e30s recovery is over probably the first person ever to crack this and break it over tighten this and snaped it. IMG_0700.jpgIMG_0701.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by HurtCobain; 01-12-2019 at 09:09 AM.
Yea stuff happens the oring fitting is the seal the threaded collar just holds it in place. So now what.
What about the car that you got the hose from in the junk yard? Did it still have the trans in it?
Dude, its an auto trans. They are 100 bucks all over craigslist
No e30s again.
Is this car (supposed to be) your daily driver, or is it something you are just trying to put together? At this point you have little to lose with that trans, so thinking outside the box might be in order. I am wondering if you could run a thread cutting tap up into the upper part of that hole and allow you to plug it off completely with a clean bolt with some jb weld. I’m not sure what you would have to do to the other tube/fitting to delete the trans cooler altogether, it might depend on which of the two is the pressure feed to the radiator and which one is suction/return? Someone here could possibly chime in on this
only way to find out is to try it.
I did it on a ford 4x4 but I put it back later. I did a 302 swap into my wrangler and didn't have everything for it yet so I just looped them together
No e30s again.
image.jpg
I would try this first, as it may allow you to use NPT (pipe thread) fittings to reconnect your cooler line. If you can use one of these taps, you can buy brass nipples/adapters/barbed fittings and connect to the rubber part of your hose. I am sure you would have to cut the factory end off your cooler line because the threads you have on there are assumably metric, and parts I mentioned above would be English. As I mentioned before, you should finish removing the rest of the broken section of threads, for that maybe a Dremel, or a 3” cut off disk on an grinder, unless you opt to just take a punch and hammer and finish breaking them off, but either way,the hole needs to be somewhat flush or the tap might not go in straight.
Last edited by msservices; 01-14-2019 at 08:04 PM.
Interesting problem. Deleting the cooler I think will hurt the transmission sooner than later. Looking at the pictures, could you cut that remaining shoulder flush (flush as you can), then I like the idea of an NPT tap with what looks like some good material closer to the inside of the housing. Grease the heck out of the tap to capture the debris has you tap the threads. Then clean that grease out the best you can. With the pan right there it may be difficult to get a good straight shot.
Good luck with this one...
2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual
Before you spend the money on the tap/die set, see if you can measure the diameter of the hole after you finish removing the broken/uneven parts. I can measure the taps I have and see if the largest (1/2” NPT) one is even close to that diameter. It almost looks (from the photo) that there is enough of the diameter to measure it even now
Last edited by msservices; 01-16-2019 at 12:07 AM.
Taps ( in that set) measure as follows
1/4”NPT starts as .425 opens up to .500
3/8” NPT starts as .500 opens up to .640
1/2”NPT starts as .680 opens up to .775
Last edited by msservices; 01-17-2019 at 12:18 AM.
Personally, I'd try JB Weld the piece that broke off it. Once that sets, clean the area and use some epoxy putty to reinforce the area. Finally, clean the threads with the correct tap and torque the hose down correctly. Remember it's the o-ring that makes the seal.
"Howdy, Folks!"
1986 Delphin 528e - Roof rack equipped lumber hauler.
1989 Zinnoberrot 325iX Sedan - I miss this car. (Deceased)
1998 Avus Blau 328iC - Someone else's project now
2008 Platinum-Beige X3 3.0si - Current project
2012 Alpine White X3 xDrive35i - My new snowmobile.
2020 Estoril Blue 440i xDrive cabrio - This car is a blast to drive.
Bookmarks