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Thread: Cracked my lower transmission housing

  1. #1
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    Cracked my lower transmission housing

    So today my road to my e30s recovery is over probably the first person ever to crack this and break it over tighten this and snaped it. IMG_0700.jpgIMG_0701.jpg


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    Last edited by HurtCobain; 01-12-2019 at 09:09 AM.

  2. #2
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    Yea stuff happens the oring fitting is the seal the threaded collar just holds it in place. So now what.

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  4. #4
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    Cracked my lower transmission housing

    Quote Originally Posted by jclausen View Post
    Yea stuff happens the oring fitting is the seal the threaded collar just holds it in place. So now what.
    Cut my lose nothing really I can do at this point don’t have the money for a transmission replacement


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  5. #5
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    What about the car that you got the hose from in the junk yard? Did it still have the trans in it?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by msservices View Post
    What about the car that you got the hose from in the junk yard? Did it still have the trans in it?
    Yes I would have to see if it’s still in the car though I doubt it


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  7. #7
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    No e30s, again :(
    Dude, its an auto trans. They are 100 bucks all over craigslist
    No e30s again.

  8. #8
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    Is this car (supposed to be) your daily driver, or is it something you are just trying to put together? At this point you have little to lose with that trans, so thinking outside the box might be in order. I am wondering if you could run a thread cutting tap up into the upper part of that hole and allow you to plug it off completely with a clean bolt with some jb weld. I’m not sure what you would have to do to the other tube/fitting to delete the trans cooler altogether, it might depend on which of the two is the pressure feed to the radiator and which one is suction/return? Someone here could possibly chime in on this

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by msservices View Post
    Is this car (supposed to be) your daily driver, or is it something you are just trying to put together? At this point you have little to lose with that trans, so thinking outside the box might be in order. I am wondering if you could run a thread cutting tap up into the upper part of that hole and allow you to plug it off completely with a clean bolt with some jb weld. I’m not sure what you would have to do to the other tube/fitting to delete the trans cooler altogether, it might depend on which of the two is the pressure feed to the radiator and which one is suction/return? Someone here could possibly chime in on this
    Thankfully it’s not my daily driver, but if I could delete the trans cooler that would be awesome


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  10. #10
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    No e30s, again :(
    only way to find out is to try it.

    I did it on a ford 4x4 but I put it back later. I did a 302 swap into my wrangler and didn't have everything for it yet so I just looped them together
    No e30s again.

  11. #11
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    Cracked my lower transmission housing

    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    only way to find out is to try it.

    I did it on a ford 4x4 but I put it back later. I did a 302 swap into my wrangler and didn't have everything for it yet so I just looped them together
    That will be the route I will be heading at this point


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  12. #12
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    image.jpg
    I would try this first, as it may allow you to use NPT (pipe thread) fittings to reconnect your cooler line. If you can use one of these taps, you can buy brass nipples/adapters/barbed fittings and connect to the rubber part of your hose. I am sure you would have to cut the factory end off your cooler line because the threads you have on there are assumably metric, and parts I mentioned above would be English. As I mentioned before, you should finish removing the rest of the broken section of threads, for that maybe a Dremel, or a 3” cut off disk on an grinder, unless you opt to just take a punch and hammer and finish breaking them off, but either way,the hole needs to be somewhat flush or the tap might not go in straight.
    Last edited by msservices; 01-14-2019 at 08:04 PM.

  13. #13
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    Interesting problem. Deleting the cooler I think will hurt the transmission sooner than later. Looking at the pictures, could you cut that remaining shoulder flush (flush as you can), then I like the idea of an NPT tap with what looks like some good material closer to the inside of the housing. Grease the heck out of the tap to capture the debris has you tap the threads. Then clean that grease out the best you can. With the pan right there it may be difficult to get a good straight shot.

    Good luck with this one...
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by msservices View Post
    image.jpg
    I would try this first, as it may allow you to use NPT (pipe thread) fittings to reconnect your cooler line. If you can use one of these taps, you can buy brass nipples/adapters/barbed fittings and connect to the rubber part of your hose. I am sure you would have to cut the factory end off your cooler line because the threads you have on there are assumably metric, and parts I mentioned above would be English. As I mentioned before, you should finish removing the rest of the broken section of threads, for that maybe a Dremel, or a 3” cut off disk on an grinder, unless you opt to just take a punch and hammer and finish breaking them off, but either way,the hole needs to be somewhat flush or the tap might not go in straight.
    I will be heading to HFT to buy that kit that your speaking about, it can’t rain forever eventually the weather will turnover for me with this car


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomstin View Post
    Interesting problem. Deleting the cooler I think will hurt the transmission sooner than later. Looking at the pictures, could you cut that remaining shoulder flush (flush as you can), then I like the idea of an NPT tap with what looks like some good material closer to the inside of the housing. Grease the heck out of the tap to capture the debris has you tap the threads. Then clean that grease out the best you can. With the pan right there it may be difficult to get a good straight shot.

    Good luck with this one...
    I will be trying my best thanks for the insight


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  16. #16
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    Before you spend the money on the tap/die set, see if you can measure the diameter of the hole after you finish removing the broken/uneven parts. I can measure the taps I have and see if the largest (1/2” NPT) one is even close to that diameter. It almost looks (from the photo) that there is enough of the diameter to measure it even now
    Last edited by msservices; 01-16-2019 at 12:07 AM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by msservices View Post
    Before you spend the money on the tap/die set, see if you can measure the diameter of the hole after you finish removing the broken/uneven parts.
    Excellent idea!!!! You could use some drill bits (chuck end) to get an idea of how big that hole is.
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  18. #18
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    Taps ( in that set) measure as follows
    1/4”NPT starts as .425 opens up to .500
    3/8” NPT starts as .500 opens up to .640
    1/2”NPT starts as .680 opens up to .775
    Last edited by msservices; 01-17-2019 at 12:18 AM.

  19. #19
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    Personally, I'd try JB Weld the piece that broke off it. Once that sets, clean the area and use some epoxy putty to reinforce the area. Finally, clean the threads with the correct tap and torque the hose down correctly. Remember it's the o-ring that makes the seal.
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