Help. My 2003 Z4 2.5i is the gremlin. I had a defective coil, so assuming same mileage on the other 5 coils, I bought and installed new plugs and new coils. When I try to crank the engine, it turns over but will not start running on its own. My limited knowledge of BMW kicked in and I don't know what to check next. I did plug my FIXD diagnostic in and there were no fault codes. Any suggestions as what I should be looking for now? Trying to avoid a tow bill and $150 diagnostic fee at the local BMW specialist, if possible.
Thanks.
Last edited by RogerC493; 01-10-2019 at 05:50 PM. Reason: clarification
turns over but will not crank? do you mean it cranks but won't start? i just want to clarify what you mean.
regardless - double check all your work - make sure the coil connector plugs are fully seated - it's easy to have them not fully seat upon installation.
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
The engine turns, call it what you like, but will not run on its own. I did double check the fitment of the coils. Each one made a suction-type sound when I pushed them on the plugs. Since the FIXD did not throw any codes after the installation of plugs and coils, my problem must be fuel related??? It is hard to accept 6 bad new coils and plugs without getting a code thrown.
Last edited by RogerC493; 01-10-2019 at 05:51 PM.
Since the engine turns over and will not start, I would check fuel pressure. Maybe it was the loss or loosing fuel pressure that caused the initial problem
Yes, I'd do that if I knew how and where the gas line is located.
ok, so crank no start. just wanted us to be on the same page....since we're not standing there by the car we can't go with "whatever you want to call it."
i'd check the coil connectors not just on the spark plug, but the harness side that goes into the coil too. it is very easy to not have those fully seated.
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here's info on checking fuel pressure - should be same engine....
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...mp_Testing.htm
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
The OEM Bosch coils have a lever on the top which locks the coil harness into the coil. Plus there are no codes.
yup, aware of the lever.
anyway - that's my methodology - i work backward when a change i made causes a change in behavior.
good luck with the repair. i'm sure others will chime in with other suggestions too.
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
Roger, shadowpuck knows all about the levers - but I'm not sure that YOU do. Are you aware that they don't work worth a damn? You need to push the plug HARD into the coil, WHILE you rotate that lever. You'll find dozens of threads on these forums where people did this exact job, and ended up with a "crank, no-start", and this was the cause.
That said, check your coil ground nuts, if you undid them, and test fuel pressure, as per the link shadowpuck provided. You might even want to pull one of those coil packs back out, and stick an old plug in it, , ground the threads of the plug, and turn the key to start position, to see if you actually have spark.
I do this for a living, and, like shadowpuck, if the car doesn't work when I'm done with a job, the first suspect has to be my own work, so I recheck that.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Okay, dumb question. Do you tighten the lever on top of the coil to make it tighter against the coil triangular plug? I just pulled the coils out of their boxes and popped them in, reconnected the triangular plugs and lowered the levers. It looked so simple on the YouTube video and I'm all about saving money. Other than last year suffering with cancer, retirement has been exciting.
All you need to do is firmly assist the electrical plug into the coil, as you rotate the lever downwards. The point is, don't rely on the lever to make the firm connection. The lever will hold it, but it won't necessarily achieve the best connection, by itself.
The only dumb question is the one you don't ask.
there's a schrader valve on the fuel rail (like a tire valve). Gently press the center with a tool. (Don't bend it) Does the fuel shoot out under very high pressure? There should be 50 psi there. For accurate results, you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from Autozone.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
A BIG Thanks tp shadowpuck and bmwdirtracer for solving my no run condition on my Z4. It was indeed the harnesses to several coils were not fully seated in the coils. They are a close tolerance for proper fit. Using bmwdirtracer's guidance I was able to start the engine, so all is well. As a precaution, I had the oil dumped in case there was gasoline infiltration. Runs like it ought to now. I did discover a small oil leak on the lower side of the oil gasket which is my next project to do.
awesome!!! i'm glad it was a simple fix and you are back up and running again. DIY car repair is fun, even more so when the car runs after you are done! haha....
thanks for reporting back to let us know the result.
oil filter housing gasket is a fun job - good DIY - just be meticulous and go step by step, you'll do just fine....
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
Good job, Roger!
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
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