Glueing new trunk seal: seal pre-bonded (it is according to TIS)? where is the tab?

[klaas]

Hi all,

I cant figure out what the official way is of glueing/bonding the trunk seal to the trunk.

Now i read this in BMW TIS (select e36, search for seal->select 'Repair instructions for bonded seals'):

2.2.3 Pull off protective film of the bonding surface

• Pull off the protective film off of the new gasket by approx. 15 cm using the tab.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ipment/FTXNGPM


For seal repair (not replacement) they say to use: Profile rubber adhesive (nr 83 19 2 232 322):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e36-325i-cou/repair-manuals/51-body-equipment/51-00-general-body-equipment/IdPOR8bV

If i peak in both ends of the seal i see something grayish stuff so this could be the case, the seal is to tight to check in the middle.

The problem however is that they mention a tab which i dont seem to have:

Pull off the protective film off of the new gasket by approx. 15 cm using the tab

Does anybody know more about this? If its not prebonded, what to use?
The bmw dealer here said to use brushable seam sealer: nr 83422409986

I have doubts about if this is the correct way, because the seal is so tight i would not be able to get anything in the seal... also not weatherstripping adhesive im afraid.

What is the correct way to bond the seal to the trunk?

Hope sombody can help me out?

thank you
klaas

Found another page:
"Notes on component bonding with adhesive tape"
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ipment/Fn7cEEU

It says: "Unless specified otherwise in vehicle-specific or component-specific instructions, the following notes apply."

And i cant find specific instructions for the trunk/boot.

It says also:

"

4.

Bonding

4.1	Components without preassembled adhesive tape Pull off liner* from adhesive tape Position adhesive tape on component and stick on Press down adhesive tape over entire adhesive area Continue with Point 4.2

"

So then if the trunk seal doesnt have tape, how to get it on seems impossible

Also it mentions to prepare painted surfaces (it is) with Sika Activator 205 (part nr 83 19 0 030 155)

[66 6]

You're totally overthinking this. Start one end on the lowest area of the trunk and work your way around.

[Wankell]

I just replaced my sedan trunk seal, there is no adhesive or tape involved, just make sure you really follow the path and even "smush" it together like an accordion. I ended up with about a 1" overlap I had to accommodate for.

[klaas]

I just replaced my sedan trunk seal, there is no adhesive or tape involved, just make sure you really follow the path and even "smush" it together like an accordion. I ended up with about a 1" overlap I had to accommodate for.

Thanks for the tip.

The main reason im asking all this is that when i remove the old seal i see gray sticky stuff (silicon or glue, not sure) on the flange/edge which is really tidy. It seems to me almost impossible that this can be done by hand.
So i like to know what that is.

When you removed your old seal was there also this gray sticky stuff?

If i use a needle to check if there is something preapplied in the new seal the point of the needle gets sticky. I can also see something grayish... so im thinking something is preapplied in the new seal but it does not need to be activated by pulling off a tab or something. It seems to stay sticky and not dry up. This is also true for old gray stuff, after 20+ years it is still sticky.

- - - Updated - - -

You're totally overthinking this. Start one end on the lowest area of the trunk and work your way around.

I just like to do it right, and i enjoy knowing every last little detail.

[klaas]

Okay, ive replaced the trunk seal and ive found out some things.

Im 99% sure there is something sticky preapplied in the seal. When i push it on firmly and the roll it back a little bit some of this stuff keeps sticking to the edge/flange.

The best way to install the seal (i think) is to start exactly in the middle of the lock with the side that has the tube sticking out and then work your way to the right. Do it slowly and push it really firm slightly in the opposite direction in which your laying the seal. This is so at corner the seal will not bridge parts of the flange/metal edge. Only this way you wont end up with a seal that seems to long when youre done as its not pushed well enough in the corners. My old seal let go and leaked in the 2 most bottom corners. I think those corners are also most important as water can sit there for a much longer time then any of the top corners. Doing it this way the seal exactly fitted the trunk. The other end fitted tightly so no water can come in where the ends meet.

[Wankell]

Thanks for the tip.

When you removed your old seal was there also this gray sticky stuff?

Nice work, my situation was a bit unique, it had no trunk seal when I bought the car. Installed it in the nick of time, big storm came through.