Low rpms with shake

[lal13]

Have a 2006 530xi with 54k

I am having a lower idle. Sometimes it dips below 500, car shakes like it going to die then settles back. Doesn't do it often but enough to bother me and make me stare at the idle at red lights.
Code came for cam shaft sensors, so had both replaced. There was no lights on when the problem was diagnosed. I went in before the shake issue for a brake job, transmission sleeve leakage and oil change so returned to have them address the idle issue. Seemed like it helped for a couple days.
No vacuum leaks


Could it be possible that the idle issue has to do with the ignition switch since it seems to effect lots of other electronics in the vehicle?

UPDATE:
Car shook 4-5 at the light today

Throttle valve,mas,disa and which one?

Radio does not shut off always when I turn the engine off nor do i get the key sound/icon on the dash. I have to turn the key so the electronics turn on and then off.
I did do the sun visor vanity mirror and sure enough the key registers but have not had the radio act up in order to try the visor approach.

My way of starting the car is with the diamond shaped remote with traditional key in the ignition. According to my last 7 on the vin I am supposed to change the ignition switch for cars with comfort access. Thought that was for push ignition systems.
Should I replace the cable (ribbon) for the ignition along with the switch? If so where do I start? Cant find anything on the tube or any diagrams






thanks for any help from you guy's

[MarcoZandrini]

The radio issue could be caused by improper voltages. Do you own it have acces to a digital volt meter? I’d check the voltage using the underhood jumper that sits under the red plastic cover. Use the engine for the ground lead. Check and report back the voltages when the:
- ignition is in the run position with the engine off
- engine idling
- engine revving at 2000rpm.

What device was used to scan the various computers for codes? A simple obd2 code reader can’t read all of the modules. Go to www.bimrs.org to find a reputable indie shop that specializes in bimmers. The shop needs to have all of the BMW specific software.

I’m surprised the Service Engine Soon (SES) light wasn’t on when the car had camshaft codes. It can happen but it’s not typical. The idle problem could be caused by vacuum leaks. The intake needs to be smoke tested. Visual inspections of the various rubber hoses isn’t adequate.

[lal13]

The car was scanned with the dealership computer and am indi shop exclusive to BMW/mini
They did perfom a smoke test and had no leaks

[White94RX]

The camshaft sensor codes were likely indicating vanos solenoid problems. I have never replaced a single cam sensor on an N52 engine in 13 years. I have replaced hundreds of vanos solenoids. The cam sensor fault codes show up because the DME expects the cam to be in a certain position, but due to the failing solenoid, it hasn't reached that position. The DME just sets a cam sensor fault thinking the sensor, or reluctor wheel could be the issue, when it's almost always the vanos solenoids. And the solenoids can and will cause your low idle and stumbling because they are responsible for the cam timing of the engine (sort of).

[MauiM3Mania]

Moved from the General BMW Discussion sub-forum.

[lal13]

I asked about the vanos solenoids. He mentioned they don't intermittently go they do it don't. Any truth to that?
Thank you for the reply.
Is it strange it would show up on the scan but not pop up on the dash with check engine light?
Tough to swap vanos, should I just do it?
Left it at the shop, they are bumping up a bit in drive, brake on and a/c on
Thanks again

[White94RX]

They most certainly do work/not work intermittently.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[lal13]

Thanks for the reply. It's was worse yesterday with 4-5 hiccups at idle. Going to try this route. If I am getting hiccups with no engine light and I head over to the shop will they be able to see anything with the computer plugged in while car is running and hiccup?

[bmwdirtracer]

If White 94 RX indicated to me that he thought the solenoids were likely the issue, I would absolutely replace the solenoids. (This is not a difficult job, by the way; one e-torx bolt each, and a rag to catch the oil drips.)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-11367585425

[lal13]

No dice on changing out solenoids. Bought both OEM and didn't help.

eccentric shaft sensor top has some oilily residue around it but not fully caked. Possible cause?

To recap issue started after oil change, transmission sleeve, belt and front brake job. 54k on the wagon
Super frustrating any help is thankful

All threads go dead on this issue, seems people get it fixed and don't reply or they just deal with it. That goes for all the different forums I have come across

[lal13]

Bump