Sweet progress man! Hoping you'll head down to Pocono for Bash, and maybe I'll get to see this thing! Is there plans for an immediate cage after the motor install? Headers are going to be TIGHT, but the oil pan cut/ patch idea is great, gets you all the clearance you'll need. Any plans for baffles to keep oil down by the pickup, or are you not too worried?
If I get a trailer, Ill be trying to get up to US air for at least one event. We should coordinate and be in the same place for once.
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
Yeah once the car is up and operational I need to Cage it. I just have to see what cost and timing is on it. The stock mustang pan has a decent baffle in it from factory that I am retaining. So I don't see any issues. I will be running an oil cooler too to gain the maybe 1/2 quart capacity I am losing due to the cutout.
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Did you do those welds? They look really nice. It's super easy to make worse looking welds than that on mild steel.
It's a trek and a half, about 19 hours away from me. Has to be less for you from colorado... it'll be a long haul, and will only be possible if I have my own trailer. I'll snag one as soon as my other car sells...
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
16 hours according to Google Maps, which really equates to more like 20 towing.
Over USAIR? That place looks like a blast
How may quarts does that pan hold after the notch job? Are you planning on running an oil accumulator? I didn't when I notched my pan on a 302 E30 swap and wound up spinning the front main bearing. It was also like 90+ outside and I was hot lapping, so that may have had something to do with it
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Update.
Pan is welded up, going to continue massaging the trans tunnel for extra clearance and check back in with more progress later.
Excuse my welds but it was my first time doing something like this.
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Props to your welding coach, BTW!!
Update: Headers
Oil pan is mounted and test fit, it gained me the clearance I needed!
As you can see, its tight... Really really tight. I slotted the steering column and moved it over about 1/2" to add clearance for the steering shaft. I'm going to probably end up purchasing a slimmer steering shaft and coupler to help buy a few millimeters as well.
Test fit with motor in position with a piece of PVC tubing to just get a rough idea of room on the back cylinder. This had the steering rack and steering shaft in position as well as the motor in it's mounted position. As you can see there is room, but just barely. I have to keep in mind engine movement and steering rotation.
Then for fun, I took the factory passenger side header, flipped it around and cut off the flange to see where that puts me. The photo with the header has the motor a tad higher than it would actually sit because I had to remove the one motor lifting hook to get it to fit.I think it may work with the only issue as the exhaust is now pointed at the front of the car, so I would have to crossover to the passenger side in front of the motor possibly.
The next steps are to trim the factory header a tad more and then hopefully build off that instead of starting from scratch. But we will see once I get further !
**It won't let me upload the stock manifold picture because it for some reason thinks it's an "adult image" hahaha**
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This is the only way I could get it to post hahaha sorry for the scribbles.
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When are you going to get the ABS brakes mess out of your way?
if you run it around the front might as well bolt a turbo to it right?
Quick update: SN95 motor mounts seem to fit pretty nicely. Driver side needs a little work done to it to help clear the steering shaft but it seems the work. this way I will have some motor isolation from the body.
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Who cares about isolation in a track car? Plus, you’re really not gonna want that engine to move at all especially considering how close everything is. And why do you keep signing all of your posts? You know we can see your screen name, right?
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