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Thread: Shifting issues on my M

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Surfside, Fl
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    1998 BMW Z3M Raodster

    Shifting issues on my M

    Hello,
    I started having a hard time shifting into 1st gear (from a stop) after driving the car after about half hour. Unlike others in this forum that experience hard shifts when the car is cold, the opposite is happening for me. Can anyone shed some light on this issue?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Arida Zona
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    30,108
    My Cars
    z3
    clutch line

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Seattle
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    99 M3
    I find that if I pump the pedal ~20 times that my shifting can improve.
    Don’t know IF that is cleaning the input shaft under the disk OR bleeding the slave, but it seems to work.


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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Ca
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    My Cars
    2001 525it
    We have had good success with the factory I think it's called sl2 BMW gear oil, we used to use redline, but the BMW oil seemed to work better

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Detroit
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    97
    My Cars
    Z4M Coupe
    Here’s my checklist is order

    1) trans oil
    2) clutch line
    3) shift pins


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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Springfield, Ohio, USA
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    1998 Z3 Roadster
    If the shifting problem goes away with the engine turned off, then the problem is the clutch hydraulics. If not, it's in the transmission and/or shift linkage.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    1998 M Roadster
    Classic clutch line symptoms. Check out this thread.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    1998 BMW Z3M Raodster
    This appears to be the issue since it shifts perfectly with engine off. What is the best transmission fluid to use to circumvent this issue? Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by Blacklane View Post
    If the shifting problem goes away with the engine turned off, then the problem is the clutch hydraulics. If not, it's in the transmission and/or shift linkage.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
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    2001 BMW Z3 M Roadster
    Amsoil 5w30 and a UUC line fixed mine.

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by edoinfl View Post
    This appears to be the issue since it shifts perfectly with engine off. What is the best transmission fluid to use to circumvent this issue? Thanks
    If it shifts fine with the engine off, as Blacklane said, the issue is in the clutch hydraulics not the transmission hydraulics. You need to replace the rubber clutch line, replacing the transmission fluid will not address the problem. That being said, AMS oil is a good product for our transmissions and you can't go wrong changing to it--follow this thread.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    z3
    Hard to shift only after warmed up is usually clutch line. After long drives, old worn clutch lines start to bulge instead of passing the hydraulic fluid through properly. Replacing the clutch line with new, preferably braided steel, will prevent that issue in the future.

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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    1998 BMW Z3M Raodster
    Thanks for all the good advice and comments. I saw the ECS (Exact-Fit Stainless Steel Clutch Line). Does anyone have any comments on this clutch line or is there one that is a better option for the M?
    Thanks

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    tempe, az
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    1998 Z3M, 2006 330i
    Quote Originally Posted by edoinfl View Post
    Thanks for all the good advice and comments. I saw the ECS (Exact-Fit Stainless Steel Clutch Line). Does anyone have any comments on this clutch line or is there one that is a better option for the M?
    Thanks
    After checking them out, that's the one I bought (still haven't put in on, hope to in the next week)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Louisville, KY
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    1997 BMW Z3 1.9L 5MT
    Quote Originally Posted by BanjoDave View Post
    Amsoil 5w30 and a UUC line fixed mine...
    I wonder which one did the fix, or if one could not have done it without the other.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  15. #15
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    98 MZ3, 01 325iT
    Clutch line. Mine does the same thing. Replace the line and flush the system. It’s in my “To-Do” queue.

    BTW, the is another on-going thread about this issue.
    George Roffe
    98 M Roadster
    01 325iT


  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Texas
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    My Cars
    '02 Z3, '09 Mini
    Here's another option that I used, Bimmerworld:

    https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...-536-0002.html

    However, the E46 video on that page is absolutely NOT indicative of how much of a pain this is to do on the Z3.

    I wasn't having shifting problems, I just wanted to try to get rid of some of the driveline 'clunks' when I push in the clutch pedal at low speeds. Anyway for anyone interested in what is involved, I wrote a lot of detailed notes in this thread:

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Hard-to-shift

    I have a 2002 3.0, so one crucial connection is a little different than your car. In one way mine is easier since the clutch line female end has a hex head built into it to get a wrench on, but in another way my car is more difficult since the bracket thingy the line connects at has only a hole, rather than a slot like on your car so you can just slide the line out and work on it outside the bracket.

  17. #17
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    Shifting problem solved ... It was the stupid clutch pedal stop. It was in the care when I bought it, about 1" thick. It just occurred to me to take it out. Lo and behold, all shifting problems gone: shifts like a new car should. So, does that tell me my stock clutch line it expanding under pressure? I ask because it seems many have used a pedal stop without shifting problems. I've got the ECS SS line, just havent' put it in yet.

  18. #18
    Join Date
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    Well, if it worked fine with the stop in place until just recently, something changed, and that something is likely the clutch line expanding, so probably yes.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    2001 BMW Z3 M Roadster
    UUC line lifted my clutch pedal engagement point. Amsoil cut the notchiness and made it go into first a LOT easier.

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
    Shifting problem solved ... It was the stupid clutch pedal stop. It was in the care when I bought it, about 1" thick. It just occurred to me to take it out. Lo and behold, all shifting problems gone: shifts like a new car should. So, does that tell me my stock clutch line it expanding under pressure?
    Could also be an indication that the clutch disk is reaching end of life.


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  21. #21
    Join Date
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    What is the recommended viscosity if I want to go with Amsoil. Hearing a lot of good comments about it. Thanks

  22. #22
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    E36/7 E36/8x2 E46 F25
    The transmission was designed to use Dexron3 ATF. If you talk to Amsoil, they will tell you they do not have a compatible MTL for this box. They are correct in that regard, but their ATF works fine. I personally use the cheapest house brand Dex/Merc ATF and change it every ten years or so.


    /.randy

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    MN
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    1997 z3 roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by edoinfl View Post
    What is the recommended viscosity if I want to go with Amsoil. Hearing a lot of good comments about it. Thanks
    Lot to read in this thread linked below. There are many comments about the higher viscosity especially when cold. I live in Minnesota but store my Z during the winter. The Amsoil is as notchy as the ATF when cold but is smooth in less than a mile of driving.

    Amsoil MTF 5w-30

    It's a Hybrid--Burns Gas and Rubber

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    1998 BMW Z3M Raodster
    Anyone know how much transmission fluid I need? I'm decided to go with Amsoil 5w30. Is one quart enough? Thanks

  25. #25
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    You need 2 quarts for the transmission.

    I used AMSOIL Synchromesh 5w30.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...smission-Fluid

    BTW the differential also requires 2 qts of 75w110.

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