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Thread: LS1 / T-56 Swap into Z3 need advice on driveshaft

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Salem, Nh
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    01 Z3M Coupe

    LS1 / T-56 Swap into Z3 need advice on driveshaft

    I'm making some progress here and got the LS1 & T-56 installed into the Z3. I'm now working on coming up with a driveshaft. I've seen single piece units offered and heard they've been used in this swap.

    I'm working with a local shop who has recommended a 3" single piece using a slip yoke and 1310 U joints. I think this should work OK as an alternative to the guibo and 2 piece stock driveshaft assembly.

    But then it occurred to me that this option might present an installation problem. With the guibo removed the stock 2 piece unit bends enough to provided room to slide the driveshaft / rear flange with studs past the sub frame housing which surrounds and extends past the diff flange towards the front.

    I'm know I can remove the transmission mount and tilt the tail of the transmission down to provide some room but I'm wondering if this would be enough to allow for a single piece driveshaft to be installed.

    I'd really appreciate it if someone who's done this swap and used a single piece driveshaft could comment on what's involved in installing it into the car.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    jackson, n.j.
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    95 m3 coupe
    The slip yoke gives you the room needed to slide the driveshaft forward and then back to bolt to the diff flange. The same way it works on any car that comes from the factory with a 1 piece shaft.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Arizona
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    1998 328I
    what mentaleeill said, the diff shop SHOULD build it and give you enough room to both install it and remove it by sliding it in towards the tranny and when finally installed should be inside the transmission enough to fully engage

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    thanks but this won't work as the slip yoke alone would not provide enough room.
    The sub frame shrouds the diff flange by about 3" and the slip yoke should end up about 3/4" from bottoming out in the trans. so this would only provide 3/4" of movement. After talking to the driveshaft shop we came up with using a 2 piece forged slip yoke that has removable caps. This will enable the rear of the driveshaft to be installed first, then slip yoke can be pushed back into the trans to put the the u-joint in place in the slip yoke and then bolt the caps on.
    Last edited by CMM3; 01-04-2019 at 10:33 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    PNW
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    LS E46
    You just said you were using a slip yoke...

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Yes but a 2 piece slip yoke with removable end caps versus a one piece. With the one piece the u joints are pressed into the yoke whereas the u joint is held in by end caps which are bolted into place with a two piece.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    206
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan
    You could use the 1st year GTO slip yoke that’s the same bolt pattern as the BMW GIUBO and have a centering pin made that threads into the T56 output shaft. Then just shorten the front half of your original driveshaft. That’s what I did. Just make sure the two flanges for the GIUBO are 100% lined up. I turned the flanges so the bolts go through the same hole in the GIUBO using longer bolts, this way there is no flex, then positioned the tail-end of the transmission so that the center bearing bolts into place, then put the GIUBO back the way it’s supposed to be with the original bolts. Kind of a quick and dirty way to align the front half of the driveshaft with the transmission.


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