Happy new year! I try to change spark plugs this week. Should I remove the entire intake manifold or just ignition wiring? Anyway, I also find some issues to remove the intake manifold. Can someone tell me how to do it? Any suggestions are highly appreciated.
1. P2: how to remove the round connector? Should I twist it first or just pull it out directly? I tried a couple of times but it doesn't move.
2. P4: how to remove the foil bar under the ignition wire? It looks like the spark plug socket connects to the foil bar.
Definitely, I learn something everyday. Nothing is easy in the life. Please help.
Thanks a lot.
those are the fuel injector connectors that you are showing. taking the intake manifolds off is a little involved, why do you want to remove it?
Shouldn’t have to remove anything to change the spark plugs, except spark plug wires, just need a long reach for the #6 & 12.
also spark plugs are in the side of the engine not the top.
Last edited by Pneill316; 01-02-2019 at 01:59 PM.
Hold on there! I think you may have misidentified where the spark plugs are located. They plugs are on the sides of the engine and not on top of engine like most if not all newer BMWs. The 2 round metal objects are the fuel pressure regulators, do not fiddle around with them as they are under pressure and can spray gasoline everywhere. Noticed the tightening bolt is removed on the front facing fpr, put back and tighten ASAP. Those 12 electrical connectors are for the fuel injectors which seat below the 2 foil wrapped fuel rails. Round connector? The only connector that fits this description is at the B+ terminal, twist left and pull out.
R/R spark plugs on the M70 engine for the first time is rather tedious and time consuming. The hardest part is accessing the #6 and #12 plugs (more so). Unless one has huge forearms and hands, nothing needs to be removed for this task. To gain a little more access room, the ignition wires, the B+ terminal box can be also removed. R/R plugs can be done with the factory plug tool, but the process can be real slow and tedious. A better tool for this job is to get a magnetic 14mm socket attached to a 3/8” ratchet. Can be bought real cheap on Amazon or eBay.
You may want or have to remove the intake manifolds in the future to do some work inside the cylinder heads or repair vacuum leaks with the ‘infamous’ intake gaskets. This info can be easily found just by googling M70 engine intake manifold removal process.
Last edited by M6csi; 01-02-2019 at 03:22 PM.
Bert
91 850i-A
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If you are having difficulty identifying the spark plugs and spark plug wires, you may want to find a buddy with that basic knowledge to help you through this. The pics you have shown are the fuel injector plugs and fuel pressure regulators (round thing). As stated above, you don’t need to remove any of these to do the spark plugs. The absolute best tool for this job should be in the trunk lid tool kit. Good luck.
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Don't cross thread the spark plugs putting them back in
use the workshop manual, see section 12 12 011 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...g-valve-wiring
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Congrats on wanting to change your own spark plugs- !
I agree, refer to the factory workshop manual for reference. To make the job super easy on my '91 850, I use a 3/8 drive, single jointed spark plug socket (Hazet tool# 4766). I actually bought this tool for my CL600 Mercedes, but really makes doing the plugs easy on the 850 too. Of course you can use a plain spark plug socket as well. My second tip, is how to access the sides of the engine to reach the spark plugs- I stand in front of the radiator and while bending my body toward the engine, slide my arm into the area along the cylinder head. I do this for either side engine bank. Remove only one spark plug lead at a time. Fit socket on to the spark plug and remove. Install new plug - careful not to cross thread the spark plug into the hole!
I might add, check/ set new spark plug gap to factory specification before installation.
Good luck!
I used a combination of short extensions that varied depending on which plug I was changing. # 6 and # 12 I was doing what henryc did and laid across the top of the car
Oh! My God! Thank you so much for all your helps. I am totally no idea what I am doing here. Actually, I got two error codes of "Camshaft / Cylinder ID Sensor" & "Emission (Lambda) Control." So, I am thinking if changing spark plugs can't resolve the first issue, I will need to replace the ignition wires. Also, I purchased two Oxygen sensors for the second issue. Am I correct? Can someone tell me how to resolve both codes? Thanks a lot.
You are on the right track with the ignition problems - plugs and HT leads (including the Cylinder Identification Sensors) should sort you out nicely.
The Lambda control isn't so straight forward - although replacing the sensors might help it is akin to changing a temperatures sensor because the engine is over-heating! Much more likely to be a vacuum leak (such as inlet manifolds) - more information here:
https://www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/Diagnostics.htm
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Thanks a lot, Tim. However, if I have to change the ignition wires, can I change them from the side too? Otherwise, if I have to reach them from the top of the Intake Manifold, can someone tell me how to remove the fuel injector connectors? Sorry to ask too many questions because this is my first DIY project. I have a lot of "fun" so far including my back pain. Thanks.
Dclin703,
As everyone has posted do not mess with the intake manifolds to replace the spark plugs or the ignition wires, the wires are mounted to the outside of the intake manifolds with two small bolts, pull the plug wires from the rubber boot depending on how long they have been on the car they can be a pain but take your time also take a picture of the front of the engine before you remove the CPS and Cylinder ID sensors.
Spark Plug #6 and #12 were a pain for me as I am short and it was difficult to get to without an extension.
If you decide to remove the intake manifolds for any reason you may need to replace the intake manifold gaskets if they are really old as they may not seal properly and the gaskets are not cheap I spent $350 per side since I was in a bind and had to purchase from local dealer.
Last edited by kishoreh; 01-07-2019 at 08:49 PM.
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