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Thread: 2000 E39 528i LQ4 auto swap

  1. #26
    Join Date
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    Bmw E39 528i
    IMG_0895.jpgSmall things have been finished , all my fuel lines are done and now for the oil lines. Starts with this oil filter relocation block. Got it on eBay, not cheap tho, 90$ billet piece. Used with what ever hp4 oil filter, i chose a Fram low restriction one. and it's -10AN threaded. Great because my oil pan only has -10AN bungs for inlet and outlet so this will work perfectly. and tested out my starter and i didn't have to use any shims, sounded great. Added a power block for the 3 power wires that are shown in my last post on the left of the picture, gives them a place to sit for a decent looking Ebox. Very close now to getting it started.
    IMG_1007[1].jpgStarter wired up with 4 gauge wire.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:30 AM.

  2. #27
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    I decided on this spot for the oil filter, i think its decent clearance, i made a small reinforcement plate to go behind the bracket for the filter. Because that area by the fender well is real thin. Again, i will be getting different headers, so the hose being that close doesn't matter right now. I used 90 degree -10AN fittings on the oil pan and i would have liked to use 90's as well on the actual filter bracket but i didn't have any and i wanted the oiling system to be finished for now. I do plan on adding a oil cooler and i will change over the fitting than. If you click on the pictures they don't look half bad. I still have a older iphone.
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    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-09-2019 at 04:48 PM.

  3. #28
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    Bmw E39 528i
    I took off the 3M double sided tape holding on the spoiler and bought a gun and a cartridge of 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive - 200 ml. I wanted to have it permanently attached or the closest to it. And with self tapping screws, i could force the spoiler and put pressure on points and than screw that section down, all while the adhesive hardened. So now i have 0 gap anywhere. And i used JB weld marine epoxy to fill the screw holes. It said for metal and fiberglass, and it can be sanded and shaped and than re-drilled into if needed so seemed like a decent choice. Now i have to strip the whole trunk and re -paint it as i have a lot of clear coat peeling off and the spoiler was black and i would like to color match it with the rest of the car.
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    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:33 AM. Reason: i cant form sentences

  4. #29
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    Alright so i got my dip stick in, oil and all the small things to get her started. And i did it!
    https://youtu.be/YpUHsAjvPcU
    And added a usb port, and hoping the reason i have no brake lights is because the switch by the pedal, if not, im clueless.
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    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:34 AM.

  5. #30
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    The brake light switch tells the LCM to turn on the brake lights.

    Sure that's the correct link?
    Sounds like she doesn't like your music.
    Last edited by JimLev; 06-06-2019 at 02:51 PM.

  6. #31
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    My bad, i was in a rush for a meeting. But the link is fixed

  7. #32
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    Also do u think not having my abs hooked up at all would cause the LCM to not send a signal to the bulbs? I'm trying to find a diagram for the wiring and pin outs, i don't have a problem checking for signal from the unit just would be a hassle. And when i connect my battery the rear running lights come half on, like literally a section of the rear left housing. When i turn the selector to the on position they all come on. IDK if that could mean i need a new LCM but i want to tackle this soon bc i want to have a torque converter wire set up so it unlocks while i'm at a stop.

    Just did some research and looks like the brake light switch communicates with the DSC III. Wonderful.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-06-2019 at 03:35 PM.

  8. #33
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    1999 BMW 323i vert
    Quote Originally Posted by mrallande5020 View Post
    Alright so i got my dip stick in and oil and all the small things to get her started. And i did it!
    https://youtu.be/YpUHsAjvPcU
    Wow, first start-up! That is awesome. I would have been jumping up and down and whooping and hollering. Nice work.
    Diving in at the shallow end!

  9. #34
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    BMW 525i
    Great progress. Better quality pictures needed
    2002 BMW 525i - 5.3L LS Turbo Swap
    Follow me on Instagram at Lantz_E39
    Link to my build page

  10. #35
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    Hopefully going to upgrade my phone soon, but i was ecstatic on the inside. Fixed my brake light problem by unplugging the brake switch and jumping the harness together than plugging it back in. IDK how the hell that fixed but i'm not complaining and i used my key to unlock the driver door and i, for the first time heard a beep sound from the car. Blew my damn mind. Now im going to be using a SPDT relay to take my +12 from a brake light wire and convert it to push out a grounded signal for my TCC signal on my engine harness. I looked up how ppl are doing this TCC wire and they are using another brake switch, but to me, in my brain this seems simpler? IDK but i will give it a try. I don't see why it wouldn't work as i will be giving the wire the signal it calls for. After that i will save up for the front acc drive system. So that will be a solid month of no progress.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:36 AM.

  11. #36
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Are you sure the tranny wants a ground to unlock the TCC? I thought I read that it wanted 12 volts. (I'm using a 4L65e)
    Do you have the tranny software so you can program the shift points, shift pressure, A/B shift programs, dyno mode, etc?
    Here's the wiring from the tranny ECU to the tranny that shows the above,
    https://static.summitracing.com/glob...9302405_sn.pdf

    Update.....TCC wiring.

    1. Optional wiring – The other optional wires in the same connector as the "A/B" calibration mentioned
      above will be switched to a chassis ground to operate the intended function with the one exception of
      the brake light switch which will be 12V when the brake switch is activated. The Manual Mode Shift
      connector wires will all be grounded when activated. Manual mode wire is a constant ground and the upshift and down shift will bea momentary ground.

    Last edited by JimLev; 06-08-2019 at 01:04 AM.

  12. #37
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    On my harness that i got from wiring specialties, its a single wire that was grouped with my instrument cluster wires, that the instruction say to give it +12v when the brake is not applied and than nothing when it is applied. I'm kinda *.* looking at the link u sent, ik it had the pin outs but im still *.* I don't have any software, i would like to have my steptronic shifter control the 4L80e shifts tho.

  13. #38
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    1999 528i
    Great work, man. Keep up the progress pics and videos.

  14. #39
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Thought you were using a 4L60e. Looking at the info I got with my engine/tranny it looks like they use a different TCU for the 4L80e as well as a different USB stick for the software too. Guess that explains the difference in controlling the TCC.
    Here's more info that has p/n's, should be pretty easy to connect a steptronic shifter to the tranny, the TCU is just looking for either a ground or +12 to put it into manual mode and the same for shifting. The software allows you to set up the inputs as either hi's or low's to control the tranny.
    http://d354nuoz4t18d4.cloudfront.net...?cb=1500229557

  15. #40
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    Hello ppl who check in on this build, i got my Hooker S-10 headers in and had to shave a bit off near the steering column. And i feel comfortable now that no rubbing will occur. Also my black carpet matching side panels for the center console came from eBay and i think it really completes the look. I do want to ceramic coat the headers, but that can hold off. Next step acc drive.
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    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:37 AM.

  16. #41
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    Good work! Looks like you are coming along nicely. This reminds me I need to start a build thread for mine too. Keep it up! 🙂

  17. #42
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    Much appreciated. You should get a thread going, People do things differently and that's whats awesome.

  18. #43
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    Ok so i have not got any new parts...thanks to multiple tickets and than to top all of that my daily driver getting towed. Smh. But August seems very promising and i will be getting a ton of work done.
    IMG_1099[1].jpgGot a special switch to make the TCC signal wire work. That's the plan at-least, if i can figure out how the guy on YouTube wired it.
    LGRE6447[1].jpg My best-friend got a M3 for $13,500 with 100k miles! The interior needs some love but the outside is stout. And he got a used Supersprint exhaust that retails for ~2,000$. Paid $700 on craigslist.
    I followed Lantz's thread on the throttle cable install and i now got a functioning throttle body. I was super pumped about that idk why. Installed a new brake light switch bc i had ordered one when i couldn't get my brakes to work. Uninstalled my oil pressure sensor and coolant temp sensor not realizing till now that the Dakota Digital dash i want comes with those sensors.
    prd_1145.jpgThis is what i was thinking to go with. Saw a vid on YouTube of a BMW E60 with a similar setup and it looked amazing. I would cut the trim around the main bezel as there's nothing behind it and create a new mounting system onto a $30 carbon fiber sheet i found on Amazon. And cut away at the original cluster harness to find turn signals, high-beams, etc...

  19. #44
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    The special switch is just a relay thatís doesnít have the standard 85,86,87,etc?


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    2002 BMW 525i - 5.3L LS Turbo Swap
    Follow me on Instagram at Lantz_E39
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  20. #45
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    I honestly have no idea man, sorry. I do have a question for you tho, How did u tighten the jam nut on the inside of the foot-well for the throttle-body cable? I have it hand tight using my fingers in a weird ass motion just because it's so cramped in that section.

  21. #46
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    Another small thing to add i got a used cup holder area/ coin tray and of course the soft touch material is totally scratched. So to mimic the surface i used bed liner in a spray can, the texture is very minimal and i love the way it came out. I was going to get the aftermarket cup holder that sits on top of this piece, but with this coming out so nice i will just buy a new original style cup holder.
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    I will also buy a used instrument cluster trim instead of the $70 BMW original and do the same process to it to match this tray. So i don't have a random colored part out in the open.

  22. #47
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    2000 E39 528i LQ4 auto swap

    Quote Originally Posted by mrallande5020 View Post
    I honestly have no idea man, sorry. I do have a question for you tho, How did u tighten the jam nut on the inside of the foot-well for the throttle-body cable? I have it hand tight using my fingers in a weird ass motion just because it's so cramped in that section.
    Pull the wire cable all the way out (from pedal side). Put deep socket on and send it. I also put a washer on the engine bay side so it had more surface area. The nut was almost the same size as the grommet hole.

    Be careful though if using an impact, it aluminum.

    The under dash part has to be one of my least favorite areas to work on a car.

    And that is a relay but the pins on bottom look like a non standard layout. Hard to tell.


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    Last edited by Lantz; 07-10-2019 at 11:56 PM.
    2002 BMW 525i - 5.3L LS Turbo Swap
    Follow me on Instagram at Lantz_E39
    Link to my build page

  23. #48
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    Thank you Lantz, I honestly don't see how that didn't process in my brain when installing it. Also u must be glad you'r car was a manual to start with. I am assuming it is since u never posted about installing a clutch. But that sir, would blow if you had to add one. Because i do agree the lower dash is not my favorite spot to work on.

  24. #49
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    Were you able to sue the stock shifter to control the basic shifting of the transmission?

  25. #50
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    Currently do not have a transmission: got a good bit of savings todo. I'll be getting mine from monster transmissions(~$3,000). But that's the only thing i'm iffy about. I did see on here someone briefly show a BOM trans cable hooked up to the BMW's stock shifter, i will probably go that route.

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