2000 E39 528i LQ4 auto swap

[mrallande5020]

You'r swap is awesome, alot of cool diy things you did that I like. I plan on having some fun with this car as soon as I can. I know you didn't waste anytime on ripping you'rs on the streets and track.

[mrallande5020]

Surprising, but I managed to make the cuts in the tunnel within an hour. While the trans was under there with me. I had to REALLY jack the car up and than slide it under, something I wouldn't do again unless on a lift. Also while it was rigged on a little pallet with wheels. After the cuts I primed it and used black adhesive rtv on the "seems" or gaps where the metal meets. Measured the drive shaft length, came out to 48 and 1/4 inches from end yolk to end yolk. Using the stock converter even after researching the benefits of a stall increase. IMO I didn't think my little cam needed one so I'm sticking with stock. My "down-pipes" I made fit perfectly and the shaving on the header clears the steering-shaft no problem now that I know how the engine's tilt sits with trans attached. Drive shaft was ordered. Now we wait for the goodies! The wiring harness plug is super tight, but like someone mentioned it'll fit if plugged in and than raised to bolt in the cross member.
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[motorV8ed]

Nice work! You are going great guns!

[Lantz]

I hope you have better luck with the poly trans mount. Mine vibrated the car like crazy!


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[mrallande5020]

Thank you sir! I read that you'r mount Lantz had that problem. But I'm hoping mine doesn't lol. Ordered all gauges except speedo. So now I wait on parts.

[mrallande5020]

Took a pic of the rtv, and had to send in my sonnax flange and slip yolk to be balanced with the drive shaft. Got the speed gauge. I was holding off on it because I thought I needed a gps sending unit. Got the shifter cable in. I had to weld up a bracket and trim ALOT of plastic. Followed another thread on the shifter and stuff he used-FOUND HERE:https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...80e-swap/page4 starts at post #92. IDK if the shifter goes back enough in my situation, but I'm going to leave it as is. All I need is drive lol. Got quoted a $400 tune near me, about a 40 min drive when the time comes. I hope next month.
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[mentaleeill]

Looking good. I'm running the prothane poly trans mount with revshift poly engine mounts. When tightening everything down I noticed the passenger side of the trans mount wasn't sitting tight against jf's trans crossmember. The thinnest starter shim from one of them help packs at the parts store solved the issue. With a pretty lopey cam I don't get any crazy vibrations.

[CvilleTallman]

Looking good!

What headlights are those?


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[mrallande5020]

If if find any vibration ill try shimming, thx for the heads up mentaleeill. And the headlights are cheapos off of amazon-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Unavailable on the link but I think most of the ones on amazon are the same. I wanted the euro clear side marker lenses, but now I want the pre-face lift xenons again like I had.

[mrallande5020]

I got the driveshaft and gauges. Installed within like 3 hours. Made a portion of the exhaust with a single chamber x pipe and heat wrapped it because the splatter was just nuts on my welds and I didn't want to sand them down. Had to fill in some decent gaps as well. Lowered the car from the jack stands and put her in gear, a weak reverse. I had to fill the trans up with a ton of fluid while going thru the gears a couple of times and now all gears are strong and I do not have any leaks. Washed it after a year and a half. Car will need paint but for now it will have to do as is. Brakes are great, I set my brake bias in the middle and it feels nice but I don't know what is good and what is right so to say. I really need a tune so the daily driving will start when that gets done. And I have the rest of the exhaust on the way because it's super loud and drones since it ends just after the trans. But that's all the pipe I had. For now it will be merged into a 3'' and into a muffler in my trans cooler area. And later on M5 rear bumper will be bought and maybe changed to a quad tip dual out.

The forum is not letting me post any pictures due to forum quota limit. No idea how to fix that.
My Instagram is mrallande. I have pics there and update pretty much as I get things done. I hope they fix the pic thing.

[Lantz]

I wrapped all my turbo pipes to hide my welds too. The welds add strength when you don’t grind them down.

How did your poly mount fair or is it too early to tell?


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[mrallande5020]

Too early to tell, so far tho all is well. I was super nervous the whole time. And wanted to see if the temps would stay were they needed to be. At idle she went up to 207* just sitting there and when driving around 199*. But what worries me is that's at 47* outside temp. So who knows how it will be when temps are 90+ outside. I am looking at these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1. Suppose to push a ton of air. If and when I go that route I will have a shroud made. A proper video will come out sometime soon-ish.

[Lantz]

Yup same here. I’m using a stock radiator, my fans are set at 190 and they never come on while I’m driving but it’s in the mid 40s to 50s here.


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[mrallande5020]

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AZLL9813.JPGIMG_1078.jpgThis is the relay for the tcc wire on the ecu harness. Instead of messing with the brake switch wiring I had to run a long wire from the brake light to this relay.

[mrallande5020]

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IMG_1102.jpgNMGH9081.jpgAlso I just ordered a M5 rear bumper. I kept swaying from should I wait to lets just get it over with. So trunk will be cut. Keeping tru duals all the way for the exhaust. I am also going to diy a front splitter from acrylic.

[motorV8ed]

Too early to tell, so far tho all is well. I was super nervous the whole time. And wanted to see if the temps would stay were they needed to be. At idle she went up to 207* just sitting there and when driving around 199*. But what worries me is that's at 47* outside temp. So who knows how it will be when temps are 90+ outside. I am looking at these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1. Suppose to push a ton of air. If and when I go that route I will have a shroud made. A proper video will come out sometime soon-ish.

Maybe go with a lower temperature thermostat? My t-stat was only half-opening, and I had essentially the same temperatures that you are seeing. (Okay, mine were a bit hotter than yours, but it was summer.) I put in a 187F, and that cured my problems.

[JimLev]

I'd go with a 16" low profile fan if you have the room.
I used a Flex-a-Lite fan.

[mrallande5020]

I got ya guys, My t-stat right now is a stock one. I do have a lower temp one but I drilled the stock one in like 4 places, I was hesitant to put the lower one in because it was a tad longer in size and when I ran it with it in it didn't seem to open. I will try another one.

[mrallande5020]

JimLev, I will try the 16'' or bigger since I can fit two 12'' side by side. Is the big single usually better than duals? Id assume so since there is areas that are not covered.

[JimLev]

Yes, a 16 is better. Draws less current than two 12" fans.
I have mine on a PWM controller that varies the fan speed according to the temp.

[Lantz]

A shroud would help when not moving too. Pulls air over a larger surface area of the rad.

You could also look at the stock fans people retrofit. I was going to go that route but it hit my turbo downpipe. The dorman 620-118 is an 18” I believe.


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[mrallande5020]

I think I found something I'll probably get. Pricey but 4,000cfm and rated by Dorman. The fans I have now from amazon are rated I think at 1,400 each or 2,000. I don't remember but I can tell they don't pull that hard. I have a 165amp alt, so powering the bad boys should be fine.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

[mrallande5020]

Video of it running and how it sounds. I do have paint for the bumper and will get that done asap. Eventually car needs a complete paint job but for now we're good. I'll get it tuned sometime next month, my brake lights stay on randomly and that effects my torque converter locking/unlocking. The brake switch is brand new but I know my LCM is going bad so hopefully that is the problem. Sway bar is next after tune and head-unit. How long did it take for you guys to feel comfortable and not nervous while driving these machines. I daily a 2002 Volvo V70 and it's pretty smooth so driving this thing with coil-overs and stiff mounts has me. Ah and my damn brakes sqeel. Time for a big brake kit.

https://youtu.be/YXZjO65G-uY

[Lantz]

Is your brake switch touching the metal arm of the brake pedal? Those switches are adjustable and can be pushed out.


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[mrallande5020]

I adjusted it accordingly, I would be driving and they will work as normal than at random it decides to stay on. I can push the pedal in and they still stay on. Only after turning the car back on and off does it stop.I have the tcc wire and relay hooked up to the center rear window brake light. It use to work now it doesn't. I am thinking that it is the LCM and I want to buy a used one and transfer over the internal components to mine, because I've read that they have to be coded to a cars setup and options, xenons etc. And is big enough for me to de-solder and re-solder, or just plug it in first and see if im good.