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Thread: 2000 E39 528i LQ4 auto swap

  1. #1
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    2000 E39 528i LQ4 auto swap

    I have read many of the e39 LS swaps on this forum and i have been owning a e39 for just around a year now and finally bought a lq4 from someone in Dallas. I have done a solid axle swap on my old 99 explorer using a Dana 30 bronco axle and a header install on the I6 2.8 motor in the Bim. Just giving a very small amount of my wrench turning history. The LQ4 has about 120,000 miles on it and i want a motor that will last me at least another 100,000 so i tore it apart and honed the cylinder walls with a flex hone 400 grit and new rings with ARP rod bolts cleaned off all the carbon from the pistons. For the heads i had them resurfaced, im sure the"machine shop" i took them to did the sand paper method using a flat sheet of glass but whatever, there flat. I did a simple valve resurface with grinding paste, put some LS6 springs hoping that after the swap when i am not broke from this i can add in a slightly higher lift cam. ARP head BOLTS because i didn't think i would need the 300$+ studs. I picked up a used LS2 intake manifold from eBay for 240$. Oh and i forgot i added chromoly hardened push rods(5/16) and a summit racing oil pan that should work as i compared the dimensions to the auto-craft oil pan that a lot of the e39 guys use. New rear main seal and valley cover gaskets. The oil pan was 200$ including the gm gasket. For engine mounts i picked up Jesus Freak motor and trans mounts for a 4l80e.
    m70.jpg!!!Click on the images for better quality also i don't know why but some post sideways.
    IMG_0277.jpgI don't know how but it fit without the exhaust manifolds on and no oil pan
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    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:14 AM.

  2. #2
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    When i tried to take the m52tu out the first time i don't know why i kept the transmission connected. took me 5 hours to get to the point of pulling the motor. But after 2 hours of almost walking across the driveway and throwing my self into oncoming traffic i un-bolted the trans and whala, out came the oil covered bastard. The motor has a blown rear main seal and started to misfire badly when warmed up. i battled with those symptoms before and did new spark plugs and ign coils, sea foam vanos rebuild, and it stopped but when it came back it was already time for the swap and i did crack the head gasket from a blown water pump that i did replace but since the head gasket was cracked i assume in an area where exhaust gas was getting into the cooling system the coolant would build pressure than spew all over the ground. Back to my progress i got black carpet to contrast the tan or beige interior and did some vinyl leather on the trim except for the center console
    IMG_0241[1].JPGcheap ecs brand coil overs and amazon halo headlights but depo led tail lights.
    IMG_0232.JPGidk what is going on with the rotated pics some come out right others don't, no matter how i upload them.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:16 AM.

  3. #3
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    okay so today i bolted the motor in and with/out a trans, man does it sag in the back but for now i used two nuts sandwiched between the oil pan and sub-frame to hold it level. I threw on the intake for looks right now, my goal is to cut all brackets and shave/tuck the bay for a medium gloss gray paint. This is for a couple months down the road. Right now my main task is getting the motor running and wiring done. I will be getting a rebuilt transmission with a slightly higher stall and firm shift package. The only concern for that will be getting the shifter and linkage to properly go threw all gears. I read another thread that he had to switch to a non-steptronic shifter, but he was using a 4l60e rather the the 4l80e.
    IMG_0536.jpg
    IMG_0540.jpgCant wait to put the headlights back on so it at least looks like an e39 again.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:17 AM.

  4. #4
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    so today i wanted to tear down the M52tu because i want to make use of it as a table, lol yes a table using only the block and a glass rectangle from a desk i have. And i saved a camshaft to make a lamp. But while tearing the motor down i found that i had a exhaust camshaft sprocket explode and that was the reason i had a code for no exhaust cam sensor. the sensor was shot to hell too, half of it missing. But besides a misfire and a cracked head gasket from a blown water pump, she ran fine, unbelievable now knowing that large chunks of sprocket were sitting in the head. i also tested for fuel pump wires and a starter positive signal.
    IMG_0530[1].jpgi cut all wires that lead to the M52 harness. DME relay, Coil pack and all other but for one, the wiper relay. Really cleans the inside of the box up. I posted a ls wiring thread for help on my situation where i cut all relays and needed wire "ID" to know which does what and where specifically are they. I have read the big E39 ls swap threads and the E39 ls swap wiring thread, great information but i was still confused on how i would wire her up. i pulled all wires that i cut from the ebox to the glove box location knowing that i would be dealing with them for fuel/starter functions later. (pic below)
    InkedIMG_0544_LI.jpg
    IMG_0542.jpgwile i was testing my fuel pump, the first time it turned on it sprayed fuel on my valve springs, i totally forgot about the fuel actually coming out of the lines. but i got some extra fuel line and just sent it back to return.
    IMG_0546[1].jpgsprocket or whatever it is that exploded.
    IMG_0459.jpgthis makes me feel uncomfortable. so much clutter and wires.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 01-05-2019 at 02:56 PM.

  5. #5
    JimLev's Avatar
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    Subscribed.

  6. #6
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    Thumbs up

    Looks good

  7. #7
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    so ive been doing a lot of work on the headlight harness's since they run down the engine bay fenders, i really wanted them to look clean so i got braided wire harness looms. spent about 8 hours trial and error and soldering them up. but is it worth it. planning to do the same on the engine harness as well when i get it in a couple weeks(hopefully 3).
    IMG_0569[1].jpg
    IMG_0575[1].jpg
    IMG_0573[1].jpgthis is just before i finished the drivers side, everything that had electrical tape was covered with braided loom.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 01-13-2019 at 01:56 AM.

  8. #8
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    another small update, got the wiring harness in and got most of the top end together. just need a front acc. drives and a pcm. and hook up the fuel lines and i can give her a fire.
    IMG_0830[1].jpg

  9. #9
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    That is a pretty BIG update. Looks clean!
    Diving in at the shallow end!

  10. #10
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    What are the exhaust manifolds you are using ?


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  11. #11
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    there headers on a amazon for about 120$. cheapos. but there runners are big and collector 3''. i want to switch to a log style bc these don't allow any room to run the exhaust back to the rear. ill keep them till i get the engine fired than switch.

  12. #12
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    the wiring harness is looking like its worth the 600$. figured out i bought the wrong map sensor, a lil bumbed because i wanted the nice GM one and had to order the FAST one for the LS2 intake manifold. Made the cross over fuel line for the rails. Had to modify the brackets which sucked but wasn't anything hard. Just a pain, i guess they designed it for their hi ram intake manifold. and trying to figure out where to put this huge Holley fuel pressure regulator. if anyone has a recommendation pls let me know but i will probably end up using self taping screws and put it directly behind the intake manifold
    .IMG_0844[1].jpg
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    IMG_0845.jpg
    IMG_0847.jpg
    IMG_0846.jpg
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:21 AM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrallande5020 View Post
    there headers on a amazon for about 120$. cheapos. but there runners are big and collector 3''. i want to switch to a log style bc these don't allow any room to run the exhaust back to the rear. ill keep them till i get the engine fired than switch.
    I almost went that route. Iím using the hooker ls swap headers. I have some pictures in a thread somewhere. Iím taking some time off work and should have some better ones soon.


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  14. #14
    JimLev's Avatar
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    I've got a set of new never used LS3 exhaust log manifold w/gaskets if any of you are interested.

    Forgot to add pic.
    image.jpg
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-24-2019 at 11:43 AM.

  15. #15
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    I'm looking a a stainless set on amazon not as cheap as the ones i currently have, 300$ id say is a good price, with v-bands. But thanks man.
    I went under the car last night and tried to clean up the hard fuel lines so i could get just my feed and return, can someone help me out if they know which ones which, i saw someone posted a diagram and i cant find that thread so if anyone knows thx.
    IMG_0854[1].jpgFuel filter is obvious feed, but there is like 3 other lines that i could send to return and should i cap off the ones i won't use?
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:22 AM.

  16. #16
    JimLev's Avatar
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    This is from my 540, it might help you out.



    Gas_Filter3.JPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-24-2019 at 12:15 PM.

  17. #17
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    dang the v8's got a all in one package. thank you alot for the picture. ill post when i get all the fueling done.

  18. #18
    JimLev's Avatar
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    The 540tu engine doesn't have a fuel return line from the engine, it returns fuel to the tank from the filter assy.

  19. #19
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    Got the flex plate in and bought a 60$ flex plate holder on amazon, but should come in handy later on for more LS stuff. ARP bolts for it and thread locker so it shouldn't creep out. Still working on the fuel lines, need to order two right angle -6AN fittings and a U bend fitting. Got the new map sensor from FAST, just a Delphi brand sold by them. And since i threw away the whole intake manifold once i got the motor i have to buy all new bolts for almost every thing. So those are for the tps and iac. Do u guys think i can start it w/o a alternator? run it for a few. Need a starter and a PCM and than oil filter relocation kit.
    IMG_0858[1].jpg
    IMG_0865.jpg
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:24 AM.

  20. #20
    JimLev's Avatar
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    Sure, you can start it and run it w/o an alt. If you have a good battery it should run for 30+ min just on the battery.
    Make sure everything in the car is shut off will help it maybe run even longer.

  21. #21
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    Awesome, the acc. bracket i want from Holley is ~800$. But it includes a power steering pump with pulley and an alternator that will line up w my truck balancer. Glad i don't have to wait for that.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:25 AM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrallande5020 View Post
    Awesome, the acc. Bracket i want from holley is ~800$. But it includes a power steering pump with pulley and an altenater that will line up w my truck balancer. Glad i dont have to wait for that.
    Ict makes some nice brackets at great prices. I'm using their fbody spacing ones for my low mount altenator and ps. They have brackets for truck spacing as well.

  23. #23
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    I have looked at their brackets, really nice quality. I will look at them again because i know there cheaper than Holley.
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:26 AM.

  24. #24
    JimLev's Avatar
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    I'm using the ICT low mount for the alt too.
    I bought the truck mount but modified it so I could use it for the LS3.

  25. #25
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    Ok one fuel line left and i found a spot for the regulator, I didn't like the idea at first but i think it looks good. And easy to run the lines to.
    IMG_1009[1].jpgThe return to the regulator is ran with the brake lines that hug the firewall.
    IMG_0873[1].jpgAlso made a bracket to mount my fuse box, the PCM will go where the connectors are.
    IMG_1008[1].jpg
    Last edited by mrallande5020; 06-14-2019 at 03:27 AM.

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