Yas Marina LS Swap

[motorV8ed]

That bay is looking great. Nice and clean.

[BillyDee36]

^ thanks! There’s been a lot of time put into making it all as clean as possible including choosing the right hardware

[mrallande5020]

Oh yea those brake lines ran along the strut tower and placement of you'r pcm fuse block are right on!

[BillyDee36]

Powder coated my heater valve bracket today.





I bought a Lokar cable and mounting bracket without realizing the bracket won’t work on a LS3 manifold. The manifold doesn’t have the threaded bosses for it. So I bought a LS3 cable bracket. I’m happy with it. I do need to cut a few inches off the cable sheath too.



After the oil pan fiasco, I mounted the Fbody dipstick and tube. And hated how it looked! I swapped it for a black Lokar dipstick and much prefer the look.

[motorV8ed]

I wondered why your dipstick was sitting on the base of your windshield!

Took me a minute to even see the Lokar dipstick. Looks good. Personally, I like the stocker look of the old stick in my engine bay.

[BillyDee36]

I could use some help, someone to check my thinking.

A new battery in it cranks! Sounds cool through the open headers too. Bad news is it doesn’t start. I pulled a plug and no scent of fuel. Pull the outlet hose off the C5 regulator and fuel pumps out as soon as I hit the key. I can blow through the rubber line between the regulator and rail. I also pulled the hose off the fitting at the rail. Still clear. It’s like the fuel can’t make it up the hose. I tried siphoning with the ignition on and still couldn’t get anything.

I have an Aero 340 pump and a Rally Road install kit. Also have a C5 regulator/filter with the innermost BMW fuel line plumbed to the inlet (center fitting) on the regulator. Here are a couple of pics:





Any thoughts?

[RulyLSX]

So the single line OUT from the c5 regulator has fuel coming out of it but it's not making it up to the fuel rail? How long did you try cranking it? what you can try doing is just manually jump the fuel pump relay so the fuel pump just keeps pumping until it reaches the fuel rail, if it's making it past the regulator it shoudl be making it to the fuel rail..... check for any leaks or loose fuel hose clamp that could be preventing pressure from building?

[bimerok]

Unless I’m reading it incorrectly it sounds like you connected feed to a return port on FPR.

Can you confirm that.
1 - a single big outlet on FPR is going to fuel rail.
2 - on the side that has 2 ports on FPR, the center one (should be smaller size) is connected to return line.
3 - on the side that has 2 ports on FPR, the outer one (should be bigger size) is connected as fuel feed line from the pump.

[BillyDee36]

Ruly - Yes, the FPR has fuel coming out but not making it to the rail. I cranked it for ~10 seconds a couple of times and then turned the key on and left it on for way longer than that. I also pulled the clamps to make sure I didn't have one too tight to restrict flow.

Bimerok - #1, yes the single outlet is going to the rail. #2/3, I have the supply going to the center port on the FPR. I'll swap the lines tonight. I assumed the FPR wouldn't allow flow if it was reversed.

[bimerok]

Yep swapping the lines around should do the fuel trick

These FPRs are deceiving making you think that supply should go into the center port to “match” the outlet. The only small clue is that the return port is slightly smaller size (as you don’t need as much as for supply) compare to inlet.

[motorV8ed]

Just for future reference: The fuel rail on the driver's side has a screw-on cap at the front of it. Under that is a Schrader valve. You can press the pintle in with your thumbnail to see if the rail is pressurized. (This is much easier than pulling the hoses, as you said you did earlier.)

[RulyLSX]

Bimerock is right, you have the feed/return reversed on the C5 regulator, Same thing I did and others have done haha. There are pictures out on many sites that have the wrong info, wish they would label the damn thing. The center inlet is the return, the outer one is the feed.

I have mine marked on my old regulator and confirmed

[BillyDee36]

Yep I started with that valve and worked my way backward trying to find the problem.

Bimerok - They are deceiving! To make it worse, I have AN fittings on the FPR and can’t see the difference in line size.

[BillyDee36]

Switched the lines and it fired right away! Thanks for the feedback

[motorV8ed]

That is great to hear! It always amazes me how seemingly every person ever reports that an LS fires on the first (real) attempt. Mine did!

[BillyDee36]

Having trouble keeping it running. Started looking at grounds and realized that I had both harness grounds bolted down on the back of the block so I moved one to the right head. Going to add a chassis ground to the head too. I didn’t have a MAF so I bought one and hooked it up too. If this doesn’t fix it, I’m going to check fuel pressure and then check the tune (unfortunately I don’t have HpTuners).

While trying to figure this out I bought a spare set of harness to fuse block connectors. Their to cover the unused x69 and x6031 connectors. I depinned one to connect a spare brake switch to the park safety switch to create a neutral safety switch (my car was an auto). I simply soldered an extension to wire #5 and another to wire #7 and the soldered the female ends from the depinned connector. Then I connected these to the bottom two pins on the brake switch, shaved off the extra tab on the switch, and then put the switch on the front of the clutch pedal (not on the back where an oem clutch safety switch goes).

[BillyDee36]

It was wasn’t the grounds. I moved one of the harness grounds to the passenger head and added another engine to chassis ground. No change. Going to check fuel pressure tomorrow.

[bimerok]

What are the symptoms of how the car dies? How long does it run for? Did you scan for codes?

[motorV8ed]

Hate to sound like Captain Obvious, but did you have the VATS deleted from the PCM?

[BillyDee36]

VATS was deleted by tuner but I don’t have a way to verify at the moment since I don’t have HPTuners.

The car fires up every time I try but immediately shuts down after 1-2 seconds. I had a p0102 and p0103 but likely dude to trying to run it w/o a MAF.

[bimerok]

If I remember correctly on pre 2005 LS engines the way VATS was working is let the engine run for 1-2 seconds then shut down the injectors. On later models it would do the check first, so it wouldn’t even start to begin with. I would recommend someone with the right software to double check that VATS was properly removed.

Second thing I would check is to make sure your cam/crank position sensors are connected. Cam disconnected or faulty cam sensor can exhibit similar behavior, but in your case you’re not getting the code for it...

[BillyDee36]

I don’t think it’s VATS. I was able to get it to idle a little longer. Still not taking throttle well and still getting p0103 every time. Granted I’m not running a full intake yet but wouldn’t think that would prevent it from idling.

Im beginning to wonder about the MAP, maybe the tune is setup for a ls1 map and not the ls3 I’m running.

Here’s a clip. Sorry for the shaky footage, I guess my phone wasn’t solidly set as I thought.

[bimerok]

Yep. That doesn’t look like VATS.

[Lantz]

Look up idle air relearn. It has you push in the plunger and do a couple key cycles.

I was having similar issues as you and started going down the road of map, which was not tuned 3 bar, but in the end playing with my iac got it to idle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BillyDee36]

Thanks for that Lantz. I tried doing a relearn on the iac and tps but no difference. I then got to thinking that maybe it has to do with my Holley iac so I unbolted it’s and taped off the port but it didn’t make a difference either. It still does after start up, like it’s running out of fuel or way too lean.

I’m going to get a fuel rail gauge and adapter. I’ve also reached out to the tuner.