Yas Marina LS Swap

[RulyLSX]

Start with checking fuses, make sure those are good all the way around, check fuse to MAF/ign etc.

Also, do you have the ECT sensor hooked up? If that isn't hooked it up wont let you start it but good to check

It does sound like it's dying on fuel though

[BillyDee36]

I bite the bullet and bought hp tuners. I updated the map scaling and it idles. It’s not great though. I need to charge the battery (no belt on the alt) and let it run for a minute to see if it learns and settles. I may need to adjust the iacv too.

[motorV8ed]

Good to hear progress!

[BillyDee36]

[mrallande5020]

Oh HELL yea brother! That is a nasty idle in my book, excellent work man.

[BillyDee36]

Finished up my reverse light wiring. What a pain! I found the wire in the auto gear shift connector, no problem. I then added a male pin (chassis-side) of my x20 connector. Then ran the wire through the firewall. But no lights. I started looking at the switch and harness, found that the Ford light switch on the trans has male pins unlike the GM switch. I ordered a T56 Magnum reverse light pigtail as the magnum harness has female terminals. Still no lights.

Then I went back to the fuse box and wiring schematic and realized I was missing fuse 26! Plugged a good fuse in and voila-the lights work! At least now I know that all the connectors and wiring is the way it should be.

[LM7E46]

Hey man, I love the build! The engine bay looks fantastic. I really like how neat the harness looks, as well as the brake lines. I'm just starting an LS type swap myself. LM7 (iron block 5.3) into an E46 coupe. My BMW had a blown head gasket as well! Picked her up for 700$, and the motor for 250$! My motor is in great shape for how cheap it was/where i sourced it. I plan to do very similar modifications to my motor that you've done to yours, especially the harmonic balancer/accessory drive set up that you've got.

As far as your idle goes, are you planning on running it without a MAF sensor? Only reason i ask that is because that is the route that i'm going to take, and set up a speed density tune to make that possible. But anyways, with a camshaft like the one you're running, I've read in LS related forums that to get the idle correct, the targeted idle speed needs to be bumped up across the board. There's some (nearly) exact data out there explaining that x amount of lift = x amount increase of targeted rpm for healthy idle, based on different conditions. (cold start, a/c on, ect.) I think i noticed this information in LS1Tech forums. I've found a lot of good information in there, and if you're not already member i'd recommend getting a membership.

I look forward to seeing more of this build! thanks for sharing!

[BillyDee36]

Thanks for the tip. I haven’t decided on the maf yet.

I did the heater lines finished though

[BillyDee36]

Been spending a lot of time of brakes and wheel spacing. Rear end is finished, lines tightened, wheels clear fine.



Fronts mounts up fine.



but the wheel wouldn’t clear the caliper. Tried 4 different spacers and finally a 15mm spacer allowed the wheel to clear the z06 caliper.



They certainly pop!

[BillyDee36]

I'm trying to get the engine cooling system buttoned up. Does it matter if I tee the expansion tank into the lower radiator hose vs a heater hose? Is one better than the other?

[mrallande5020]

I don't know much about cooling, what I went with was going from the heater (in) to the bottom of the expansion tank. Than top of the low pressure side of the rad to the side of the expansion tank.

[Damon Forrer]

I'm trying to get the engine cooling system buttoned up. Does it matter if I tee the expansion tank into the lower radiator hose vs a heater hose? Is one better than the other?

I put a Tee in the heater return line to the bottom of the surge tank.20200129_195617.jpg

[BillyDee36]

I put a Tee in the heater return line to the bottom of the surge tank.

I think that’s what I’ll do.

[BillyDee36]

I need some ABS help.

My ACS and ABS lights are on. I have a 10ohm 1w resistor wired in place of the ACS plug. The ABS pump will pump if I jump pins on the ACS relay.

What should I troubleshoot from here?

[Stangklick]

What codes you from the abs system?

[bimerok]

Resistor trick in place ASC actuator seem to be hit or miss based on what I saw in the ASC delete thread, that’s why I left the actuator in place after removing the actuator cable.

If you still have your old actuator, try connecting it back and see if your issue goes away or if you have other problems.

[BillyDee36]

My scanner isn’t picking up the abs system through the BMW obd2 port, doesn’t get anything actually. I’m running a Wiring Specialties harness btw.

I don’t have my ASC any longer unfortunately.

[Laminar]

You can read my saga about talking to the ABS computer using a TinyADS module starting here:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post28973201

If you think the TinyADS module and 20-pin connector would be helpful I'll gladly send them your way, they've been sitting in my tool chest untouched for the last 4 years since I got everything working.

[wbrentr]

I think that’s what I’ll do.

I did the same thing. Seems to be working well.

- - - Updated - - -

I need some ABS help.

My ACS and ABS lights are on. I have a 10ohm 1w resistor wired in place of the ACS plug. The ABS pump will pump if I jump pins on the ACS relay.

What should I troubleshoot from here?

I'm working through this currently as well. Keep us posted.

[RulyLSX]

I did the resistor trick for my ASC and it took care of it, verify the actual OHM with a multimeter of the resistor. When I first did mine although I thought I had the right one it was mislabeled and didn't fix the light.

Been running that way for over a year now

[BillyDee36]

I checked the spare from the same pack and it tested 10ohm. I’ll check the one in the car tonight.

wbrentr - Are you running a WS harness too?

[BillyDee36]

I took a new approach to getting the ABS light to turn off



Kidding. I pulled the dash to respray it and check the heater core.

As far as the ABS goes, IÂ’m was planning on buying a used harness (cause I canÂ’t find mine) to get the x6002 diagnostic port plug (since Wiring Specialties doesnÂ’t include this in their harnesses) and a 20-pin to obd2 adapter harness so that my scanner can communicate with the non-ecu systems. I read the connections as:

x20pin X6002 pin
16 15
17 20
19 7
20 1
22 16
25 12

Then as I was looking at the electrical schematics I got to wondering if I could simply build a male obd2-to-x20 connector for when I need to talk to abs, srs, etc. Pull of the WS x20 and plugin an adapter and eliminate the need to rewire the x6002 and buy an adapter harness:

x20 Obd2
Ground 4/5
17 7
16 15
12v 16

Keep in mind the WS harness already connects to pin 4 on x6031 for the cel. Will this work? Do I need pin 17 on the diag port? If so, where is it sourced and does it splice with x20 pin 17 (diag pin 20)? I can only find x6002 pin 17 for a 318, not a 325/328.

ItÂ’s late but I think I got all that right.

[motorV8ed]

[BillyDee36]

Also is there any reason to keep x6002 pin 7? What trips the service interval light without a bmw dme?

[Laminar]

How bad was pulling the dash? I'm suspicious of my heater core and I'm leary of pulling everything out.