storing the little beast

[Z3 freak]

Hi all, hope everyone had a good Christmas. I know I did, as I scored the Bentley Manual for the Z models, and an owners manual. I was surprised that the dealership beat Amazon and eBay prices. All I had to do was give them the VIN and $39, thanks to the wife. Anyway read the thread on "How to properly store your BMW". I also read the section in the owners manual, but I don't think I need to remove the tires for winter as stated in the forum thread. I did take off the ebrake, inflate tires, top off fluids, hook up maintenance charger, & etc. Read somewhere that it was not good to start up the vehicle, and let it idle, but to drive it. Is this because at idle, unburnt fuel is dumping into the cylinders? OK, draw me a picture to understand. Thanks.

[Vintage42]

... Read somewhere that it was not good to start up the vehicle, and let it idle, but to drive it. Is this because at idle, unburnt fuel is dumping into the cylinders?...

Unburnt fuel may occur the first second of cold cranking, but the fuel is burning to start the engine. At cold idle the mixture is rich at first, becoming leaner as the ECU uses the MAF sensor and temperature to adjust the mixture to the ideal combustion ratio.
The problem with occasional short winter idles is that the engine does fully warm up, which accumulates condensed moisture in the crankcase and exhaust system.

[Schreier]

The lore around not letting it idle has to do with the car possibly not reaching operational temperature throughout, and not being able to fully evaporate the condensation that can build up from a cold start. Yes, you're going to dump a lot of fuel in early on when starting the motor, but I would think most of that effect is resolved the next time you get the car warmed up.

It's not best practice to operate the car in a way where it is only running for a short period and can't get warmed up. But I haven't seen conclusive studies to show exactly what kind of wear you can do to a car if it's idled once or twice over winter without full warm-up. Just avoid if possible.

I remove the tires and put mine up on jack stands so that I can relieve the parking brake, not worry about flat-spotted tires, and inspect and service the car in the winter. Whether the tires actually develop a flat-spot depends on its age, compound, environmental conditions, and how long it's left in a single position. For 2 months, I wouldn't worry about flat spots as long as it's good and inflated. Usually the tire goes back to normal shape once its good and warmed up on the road.

[Tigershark48]

The general concensus on tire pressure is 50 psi for storage. My ebrake is off with the car in gear. If you want it out of gear, you could just chock it. You mentioned topping off fluids, but didn’t mention any gas stabilizer. If you are filled up with ethanol free, you don’t need the stabilizer. If it has ethanol, the stabilzer is a must. Also, the top should be up and locked in place. Leaving it down could crease and crack the rear window. And according to some, if you have it 90% up and not latched, the roof can shrink causing it to split or tear when you eventually put it all the way up.

Great deal on the Bentley manual. Is that a common dealer price?

[Z3 freak]

Tigershark48........I did put stabilizer in the tank just out of habit even tho I only run non ethanol and also add Marvel Mystery Oil. I think I'm not going to run the engine during the winter months after reading a lot on condensation, but the owners manual did say something about an additional corrosion protection measure, an anticorrosive agent can be added to the engine. Need to do more research, as I use to just fog my engines for cars sitting during winter. As far as the Bentley Manual goes.......the wife paid $80 new, it was the owners manual that I paid $39 for. Sorry for any mix up, and thanks to the members for their input on a topic that probably is discussed every winter. Peace out.

[Truckeeskibum]

Don't want to hijack the thread, but I have some similar questions. I just purchased my Z3 (1997 1.9L roadster with 85 k miles) in mid-November. Drove it for a few days and put to it bed just before Thanksgiving. It is under a cover in an enclosed exterior carport. Protected from wind and snow, but it still gets cold. It won't see the road until April, after the snow melts.

The tires have been inflated to 45-50 psi. They can't be removed due to limited space in the carport. Battery is still in the trunk, but both cables have been disconnected.

I have sufficient room to roll it about a foot forward & back. Too many other things in the carport (sailboat trailer, table saw, barbeque grill).

Any thoughts on starting it up and letting it idle sufficiently to come up to temperature ? Say 10 minutes minimum.

Is it worth moving it forward six inches to change the contact surface of the tires ?

[milamookie]

I always thought the flat spot on the tires issue was overblown. I’ve always stored my cars on it wheels (w/increased pressure). Didn’t move them all winter and never had that problem. I’m in Michigan so it does get quite cold. For me I always added Stabil to the fuel tank and had the battery hooked up to a tender. I would also put into the cabin some Arm and Hammer moisture absorber and odor eliminator. That process works for me.


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[JayZ3]

Typically, I move the car by hand a few inches once a month during the winter (this is also a chance to check if the rat poison has been fully consumed). When done by hand, one can feel how the car will have a tendency to settle back into the old position. One year I had planned to replace my tires first thing in the spring, so I didn't bother with flat spot prevention. Come spring, it took about an hour of driving before I couldn't feel the flat spots.

[Tigershark48]

Did you air up to 50 psi?

[JayZ3]

Did not air up to 50 psi.

[Tigershark48]

I’m thinking that will make a big difference. If not, next winter it gets raised off the floor.