Hey all, recently I noticed my adjusters aren't working and as it's now winter it gets darker quicker and I'm now noticing the headlights are aimed very very low. I tried to give them an adjustment but only one headlight actually moves and only up/down the other one doesn't work at all in either direction.
So I need to replace the adjusters and I've always preferred the euro spec headlight lens with clear reflectors. However my car is a 2003 (Prod. Date: 2003-03-19). So definitely has the permanent adhesive. So how am I supposed to replace the adjusters as well as the lenses?
Is it just not possible? If the lens will be replaced anyways is it possible to just break the lens and take it off piece by piece? These are the lenses I was looking at from DJ Auto: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-Fac...1ahe:rk:6:pf:0
2003 530i M Sport [Black Sapphire Metallic & Sand Interior]
IMG_1075 by Alex Wilson Photography, on Flickr
2003 530i M Sport [Black Sapphire Metallic & Sand Interior]
IMG_1075 by Alex Wilson Photography, on Flickr
It's possible I've done it on my 01 540. Replacing the adjusters without taking the lenses off. Just takes a lot of patience and steady hand. Yes you just loosen it all the whole way it'll fall out and you shake the broken parts out the back. Make sure they're all out, I've still got small bits in my left headlight that won't leave! Compress air will help. Getting the new ones back inside and in the right position takes a lot of cursing and patience because it'll be so close but it won't go in. Some dentist or surgical tools will be handy if you have access to them.
http://m5.neuse.net/headlight-adjust...03-bmw-e39-m5/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnRPg5o45Ik I've probbly watched this video like 5 times
There's a couple videos on youtube that show how to do it without taking the lenses off...using locking forceps and patience or by cutting holes in the lights. I'm just going to cut the lenses off and replace them. Makes doing facelift lights a little more expensive but it's so much faster.
Here's the link I used (now, it's back to having pictures show again) to replace the broken adjusters in my 2003 540:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...t-(no-cutting)
<== Steptronic Sealbeach740
2000 740i sport: 74k Green/Tan chrome MPars, clear corners, quad brake lights, AIC hi-beams, Hoen fogs, 16x9 screen, MKIV, TFT LCD screen in back, license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, iPod audio/video (CDC/iPod audio switching, iPod video on 16x9 screen), Basslink, gauge rings, ///M pedals, switched steptronic +/- shifting mode, E46 paddle shifter steering wheel, Dinan engine & tranny software upgrade, DDEs controlled via Euro fog light switch, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, windows up/sunroof close via remote.
2003 540i sport: 81k, Sterling grey/grey, MKIV Nav, PDC & CWP - Added license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, paddle shift steering wheel, windows up/sunroof close via remote, Akebono's, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, quad brake lights, iPod audio via AUX mode/video via 16x9 screen, BMW TV tuner, ///M pedals & gauge rings.
You can just cut the lenses off with a Dremel, and dig out the remaining bits and adhesive. If you're replacing your lenses you won't hurt anything you're not replacing as long as you're careful. I've done the adjusters the fishbowl method too, it takes patience, good light and a fair bit of dexterity. Its perfectly possible, but it's not exactly fun.
Another note if you're taking your lights apart, inspect your HID reflector bowls. They are likely hazy or faded by this point and due for a replacement. For the most part, Evo-XR projectors are a drop in replacement, and do wonders for light output.
Sounds like a building a ship in a bottle situation... haha
Can you elaborate on the HID reflectors being hazy etc? Mine seem to look fine but that's looking through the front lens. As far as replacing the front lenses though; I think the best idea so far is to just cut them off somehow. How can I reattach new lenses though? Should I use butyl adhesive or try and find something similar to the original BMW adhesive? I definitely don't want to have them become hazy or get condensation or anything.
One other question I had is on the US spec E39 lights there is a fiber optic that goes from the angel eyes to the side reflector and it lights up like a little dot. If I replace the lenses with euro spec clear reflector type ones does this go away? I haven't seen it on any photos of E39 with euro spec lights but I couldn't find any info or more than like 2 photos with the lights on.
On these DJAuto lenses the 'reflector' just looks like a ridged piece of plastic that's clear rather than the shiny chrome plated look the regular lens have? https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-Fac...1ahe:rk:6:pf:0 Unfortunately it's hard to see it from the photos does anybody know for sure?
Last edited by 1823alex; 12-23-2018 at 01:08 AM.
2003 530i M Sport [Black Sapphire Metallic & Sand Interior]
IMG_1075 by Alex Wilson Photography, on Flickr
I did this on my 2003 540i a few months ago.
I used an angle grinder to cut the lenses off (but do not cut the housing or any of the internal parts), then used a utility knife to cut as much adhesive as I could then pulled the remains of the lense out using pliers. After the remains of the lense were out I had to go back and remove as much of the old adhesive from the groove as possible using a knife.
Also just do the Evo-XR swap, it is well worth the $120 or so. The factory projectors are hot garbage even if they seem to look okay, but at this point the reflector bowls in the projectors are starting to chip and flake from old age, which degrades the output. The Evo-XR have a great cutoff and the Bi-xenon high beams combined with the factory high beams will give you insane visibility at night.
I installed the Depo euro style lenses on mine too, the reflector on the side is shiny chrome looking not clear, but the fiber optic will show through if it's dark so I put a bit of electrical tape over the fiber optic and it hides it.
To reseal the lights I used this stuff from Lowes. It's sealed them great and it's easier to remove than window weld or other butyl sealants and softens nicely when put in the oven. https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-90-ft-G...rstrip/1096101
Here is the upgraded projector output, I used the Morimoto Mini D2S with custom adapter brackets instead of the Evo-XR but the output is similar.
Last edited by MotorMouth93; 12-23-2018 at 03:38 AM.
Can you elaborate on the bixenon high beam thing? Also a link to the projector swap guide would be much appreciated.
Does this mean that when I flash my high beams my regular highs would flash but then the low beams would also brighten in intensity or something?
Edit: I found the link, but it mentions replacing ballasts. Is that a necessary thing to do or can't I just use the stock ballasts if they're still working?
As far as the high beam goes it seems like you're just using it to split the signal, but how does it make the low beam xenon bulb into a high beam? Is it extra voltage / amps or is it changing the projector to redirect the light in a certain way? I guess I'm just really not understanding the way the dual high beam would work?
Last edited by 1823alex; 12-23-2018 at 03:55 AM.
I just cut holes in the headlight in my 530d 2003/12, replaced adjusters and glued everything back.. you can't notice it, so why bother trying to carefully replace them, using whole day, when in 15minutes with Dremel and job done.
Will have to do it again, on my 540i, as there is one adjuster broken.
Lähetetty minun ONEPLUS A5010 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
-E34 M60B40 + Tremec TKO 600 (sold)
and sadly no old BMW anymore, only high powered Seat Leon Cupra 4Drive as a daily driver.
HID projectors have a cutoff shield, it's a piece of metal inside the projector that blocks the upper part of the light to create the sharp step shaped cutoff. Bi-xenon projectors have a solenoid built in that can move this shield out of the way to let out more light. Once the headlights are opened up it's easy to see how to swap the projectors and it's very simple, just remove the factory projector and bolt the new one in using the same hardware.
More or less yes.
No need to replace the ballasts, the factory ballasts in the E39 are 35 watt Hella gen 3 ballasts which have been the gold standard for HID ballasts for 20 years. Some people like to swap them out for 55 watt aftermarket units (or just modify the internal circuitry in the Hella ballasts for higher output power) but that's not necessary.
As described above, it's just unblocking the upper part of the light output, and bi-xenon projector bowls are shaped to have a "hot spot" right above the cutoff line that is revealed in high beam mode. To wire this up you'll need a 9005 splitter and you'll need to route the small solenoid wire into the housing somehow, I ran mine through the vent tubes in the back of the housing.
I've spent...way too long...on headlight retrofits for various cars I've had over the past few years. If there's anything you'd like clarification on don't hesitate to ask.
Last edited by MotorMouth93; 12-23-2018 at 04:21 AM.
Thank you so much, this helps a ton. Looking at it all, it looks like it's gonna run me around $315 - $350 at most for the whole retrofit.
New EvoX-R Projects for $102 from eBay
Pair of new euro lenses from Umnitza ~$160
Headlight Adjusters $8 each on Amazon ($16)
9006 High Beam Splitters: $10 each on Amazon ($20)
Headlight Synthetic Strip from FCPEuro ~$6 each ($12) but might just go to the local store and get butyl adhesive instead, depends which will be cheaper.
But as I've researched all of this I'm left wondering, is it really worth it? The adjusters definitely have to be replaced, so at least gonna cost like $180 for that since I'll need new lenses in the process. But then again if I already have the lights torn apart that much I might as well just go all the way through with it and replace the old projectors with the upgraded bi-xenon ones.
2003 530i M Sport [Black Sapphire Metallic & Sand Interior]
IMG_1075 by Alex Wilson Photography, on Flickr
-E34 M60B40 + Tremec TKO 600 (sold)
and sadly no old BMW anymore, only high powered Seat Leon Cupra 4Drive as a daily driver.
I explored the ship in bottle approach for a bit, it was truly miserable. Luckily I discovered i had the bakeables.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I did the EVOX-R swap this past summer due to failed reflector bowls in the projectors. I can second the reports of vastly improved illumination down the road.
There is though a step not mentioned in the posts above, aiming the replacement low beam projectors with respect to the high beam. You'll want the high beams aimed straight and level down the road when the low beams are properly aimed. The projectors are seated on small rubber spacers and if you don't take care, you could easily wind up with H7 high beams aimed too high, too low or for the ditches.
See post # 10 in this thread for a couple of suggestions.
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1257070
Regards
RDL
Can you explain how you knew / found out your projector bowls had failed? What are the signs of failed bowls?
As far as aiming the headlights do you have any better guide or info on how to aim them relative to each other?
I have somebody willing to sell me a pair of 2003 xenon headlights for $200 with the ballasts and he says the adjusters work but we'll see if they really do and for how long, is $200 worth it? I'm thinking I can put them on my car for now and then take my awful lights and slowly fix them. As the car is a daily if I do the reflector replacement and everything I gotta finish it in probably 1 or 2 days at most and I'd be in a bit of a rush...
2003 530i M Sport [Black Sapphire Metallic & Sand Interior]
IMG_1075 by Alex Wilson Photography, on Flickr
If you’re going to buy new lights just buy some you can bake open. It’s not worth buying 2003 lights when older ones should be similar in price and MUCH easier to work on.
My first clue was the dim illumination down the road; when newer and correctly aimed my low beams were bright enough that I almost didn't really need high beam to drive safely at 60 MPH. I then removed the HID bulbs and looked in through the mounting hole. It was obvious that the reflector was not mirror shiny, rather it had a matte finish with some wrinkle lines visible.
Regards aiming, first read at least the first post of this thread.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ghts-DIY-Guide
You'll find this picture.
Attachment 642952
Notice the 3 (of 4 total) posts that the projector is mounted. Also note the red rubber spacer visible on the the upper left post; each post has one. So, one can adjust the projector's aim with respect to the high beam by tightening upper, lower, right, left nuts on those posts and compressing the spacers.
First step is to install both bulbs including connecting a loose ballast to the HID bulb. Connect jumper wires to the H7 bulb and the ballast, but nothing on the other end - yet.
Next some calculation.
A measure the distance to the wall from the bench where you'll prop up the reflector
B at a distance to the wall of 25 feet: the high beam center/hot spot should be 2.1" higher than the low beam cut-off (i.e. left side of the pattern) and 15 cm or 5.91" to one side of the notch where the low beam pattern steps up to the right (which way depends on right or left headlight)
C using the distance to your wall and 25 feet, use ratios to calculate the vertical and horizontal distances you'll need for your setup.
Then the aiming
1 Prop the reflector/projector assy pointed toward a wall.
2 Connect the H7 jumpers to a battery and put a small piece of tape at the center of the high beam hot spot. Disconnect from the battery.
3 Connect the HID ballast wires to the battery and put another bit of tape at the notch in the low beam pattern. Disconnect from the battery.
4 Measure the vertical and horizontal distance between the two pieces of tape. Calculate the change needed for horizontal and vertical directions.
5 Tight pairs of nuts on the projector's mounting posts to correct the aim up/down and right/left. At 25 feet, each full rotation of a pair of nuts will move the aim point ~2.5 inches.
Repeat steps 1 though 5 until you're satisfied with the aim. At 25 feet, a 2" error from perfect will correspond to about 2 feet at 100 yards on the road.
EDIT: I should have mentioned to connect the HID ballast with correct polarity. Look at the plug on the car harness to determine which is which on the ballast connection. The brown wire is ground so connect that side to -ve on battery.
- - - Updated - - -
Oops, the image didn't work correctly. I'll try again
HeadlightRefectorProjectorAssy.jpg
Last edited by rdl; 12-26-2018 at 10:42 AM.
Regards
RDL
Hi all. No longer a BMW owner but received a PM inquiry on this topic about a prior post I did.
Realizing that some won’t agree with my method, but simply sharing what worked for ME
One if those adjusters was a BEAR to deal with due to super tight space. (Even using medical forceps). So, my method made the job 100 times easier.
Using a 1 3/4 hole saw bit like this
https://images.homedepot-static.com/...66-64_1000.jpg
I carefully made a perfectly round hole just above that PITA adjuster location. ( I can’t recall offhand if it was the highbeam or the low beam adjuster but the hole was same location as shown here I THINK:
http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d25324e.jpg
(Either way, I made the hole above the adjuster that’s hardest to deal with/access)
Having the hole makes accessibility much much easier for the job.
I then closed the hole after repair using 1 3/4 plastic caps from eBay or amazon. Something like this:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F262906613844
You can use a neat bead of black RTV around the perimeter of the cap but I did not as mine snapped in securely if I recall. Either way, I never had issues of moisture getting into the headlight or any ther adverse issues post my repair.
Hope this helps
Question about the production date of the changeover to permanent sealant vs the one that can be baked open. I’ve seen multiple references to the date of the changeover around 7/02 production. Post #11 in the thread linked below mentions if your headlight has a clear circle at the top of the lens, there’s a good chance it’s the flexible butyl sealant. Mine has this per the photo below but the lamps are date stamped 10/02. In the few places I seem to be able to poke at the sealant, it appears flexible and “gives” to the pick or screw driver tip. Before I throw these in the oven on a gamble, is it possible the changeover was after 10/02?
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...40i-headlights
Untitled by Twistytee, on Flickr
I highly recommend a heat gun over using an oven personally, went a lot quicker for me and was super simple. Also the date stamp that I was told was the correct one to look at was actually the one that is between the turn signal and low beam and under one of the rubber drains.
EDIT: Also an update on what I've been doing with my current lights. I bought a set of January 02 production lights for $200 from a guy on craigslist, 1 had good adjusters the other had one that was non existent. Regardless I wanted to pull them apart for new lenses, new projectors and new adjusters just to be sure. I took one of them apart no problems super easy with just a screwdriver and a heat gun then it just separated. Be careful with the plastic tabs as they start to 'melt' and deform themselves.
Last edited by 1823alex; 01-04-2019 at 11:24 PM.
2003 530i M Sport [Black Sapphire Metallic & Sand Interior]
IMG_1075 by Alex Wilson Photography, on Flickr
Post #11 is not correct. ALL LCI lense in the USA are "clear" in that area. Why?
The black (or clear in some cases iirc) "circle" (on-LCI) lenses were EURO ONLY, this was a service port to manually adjust the low beam path cut off. Not sure where the assumption was made.
This existed regardless of bakeable / unbakeable.
The silicone sealant can be pierced, and may look pliable, but unless you can dig a 90 degree pick into it and pull a nice stretchy chunk out. It's not butyl
More likely than not you have unbakeable lights. I've never encountered a post 07/02 being butyl.
+1 on 1823alex, a good pry tool, heat gun, and steady hand is a nice alternative and my go to choice over an oven
Last edited by Dking078; 01-04-2019 at 11:34 PM.
2003 BMW 540i [Sterling Gray / Gray]
[Msport] [Mods from A-Z] [Two-Tone Interior]
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All types of E39 OEM Used HVAC Buttons
Other E39 Parts, see my ebay! [Click]
Folks from Europe and Oceania have a much better time thanks to that removable port on top of the headlights.
Just another orifice you can stick things in to do the "ship in a bottle" procedure.
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