Really enjoyed reading all the content on this site.
I recently bought a 2006 750li, 94k. It has a host of issues, many I have researched, and many I will post here, but I thought I would start off with a dumb question for my initiation.
When I open the hood, I can't get it to stay up. There isn't a lever. Is the hood supposed to stay up by itself? If so what am I doing wrong.
Thanks.
Eric-
Nevermind. I found another thread with the video and answer. Just order a pair to fix.
More dumb questions on the way.
No such thing as a dumb question. Everybody was a beginner at one time. Ask away.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Thanks homie.
I bought the car from my friend knowing it had some alerts on it. But my desire to own one out weighed reason. I thought if a lemon, I would enjoy putting it together. My friend always serviced it, and what not. It wasn't his primary car, not is it mine.
It drives fantastic, but has a check engine light on, pass restraint light on, pdc malfunction, -40° flashing, some lamp malfunction, was saying I had a flat tire, but I didn't, says break pads are thin, missing nav DVD, and warns me about my cornering. My homies son had the car and removed his exotic wheels before I bought it and out the stock wheels on. I think it triggered the sensors. And lastly I put in the key yesterday, hit start, and everything died. I jumped it and drove an hour home and had it on a tickler all night. I wouldn't be surprised if the battery is shot. It's fully charged today so I will see what happens.
I don't really no where to begin. To get it registered I have to clear the check engine light. I am hoping that is from my bad temp sensor.
I tried to reset tire pressure and that didn't do anything. I believe the son put on a smaller thread of tires. I also look for the Bluetooth code above the nav DVD box but couldn't find where in the silver things the number would be. Or if I need to take it out, how accessable is it.
I didn't pay much for this thing. Easily half of your first thought. If it drains money I donate it. If not, be fun getting her dialed in.
I just don't know where to begin. And really in no rush.
Would love to find someone in NWI (northwest Indiana, Chicagoland).
Eric-
First order of business is to get a capable BMW scan tool that can read and clear BMW specific codes from any and all control modules. Then just go one system at a time and fix one thing at a time.
A good place to start is with a new battery, register it, and clear all fault codes. Then just see what comes back.
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ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Drove an hour again tonight to visit mom. Had an f.m. transmitter plugged in. Just tried to leave. Waiting here again. Car is dead.
I bought a new DVD for navigation today and they told me a dying battery can make a lot of things wonky.
First up a battery. Intravel for two weeks so I likely won't get to it until mid January.
Once you get the new battery, register it yourself if you've gotten the right diagnostic software, or have it registered at a BMW repair shop. Then just to be certain, double check your alternator is working. A cheap multimeter can measure the voltage at the battery jump points under the hood.
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ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Today it died. Had it towed. Jumped it. Let it sit for awhile charging. Turned it off. Put on a tickler.
It's dead.
Thus alternator is likely fine.
My next dumb question is what is registering a battery.
I go out of country and get back mid January.
Dumb questions.
What is "register a battery"?
Can I buy a battery and install it myself?
Can I take a battery to a BMW service non dealer and have them put it in? Register it, clear the codes?
Should I go to a dealer with the battery and pay them to register it.
I am pretty simple with my histories with batters. Take out, put in, pass go.
I am not a mechanic. I can get sold on low blinker fluid in my flex compacitor...
Registering a battery in a modern BMW is important. It tells the computers that you replaced the battery, and adjust the alternator output and charging strategy accordingly. If you have a local BMW specific repair shop, you can have them replace it and register it. Or you can replace it yourself, and them take it to them to register it, and ask them to clear all the fault codes as well. You've got to get a baseline of a fully operational vehicle with a good battery and alternator before you can proceed further.
I hope you're up for the challenge of a worn out 7 series!
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ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Ok.
Dumb question number three.
How much should a new battery, registration and code readings cost at either a dealer or reputable BMW shop?
I ask as I have never thought about battery expense, and I would like some sort of expectation management so I know what's coming and don't get everlasting blinker fluid for my flex compacitor.
I am up to the challenge a bit. I am in no rush. It will be fun. Car drives like a champ. If word comes it's going to costs thousands and thousands of dollars, I may donate it to 1877karsforkidz. Take the deduction on my taxes.
We sell batteries somewhere between $240-275 I think for the one that fits an E65. We charge $180 for registration and fault code clearing. A BMW specialist may be a little less.
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ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
450$ from a dealership to tell me everything is worth it. Thank you all so much.
I'll be back.
Happy holidays.
Eric-
thoughts?
i did the breaks/sensor, battery, temp sensor as the wire was cut, and wouldn't clear check engine to get registered with dmv.
holding off on parking distance sensor.
they are going to rescan it after battery and work is done. see what else shows.
i am paying 1700 for battery, diagnostic, breaks, temp sensor.
eric-Capture.JPG
passenger malfunction was covered by bmw.
The alternator will NEVER fully recharge a battery, especially if the battery is toast. You need to be very careful here, because if you try to charge a "dead" battery with the alternator, you WILL burn out one, if not all, charging diodes. This is a vicious circle. Get the car running, check the voltage output from the alternator (you can put a voltmeter on the charging post in the engine bay), and if it isn't reading 13.8 volts or higher, then your alternator is shot. If it is bringing back a good reading, then your battery is a piece of crap. Get a new battery, charge it out of the car with a quality battery charger, install in the car, register it to the cars computer and you should be good to go. BMW's do not like "undervoltage", and will throw all sorts of codes because of a dead battery. Start here and proceed forward, one error code at a time. Good luck!
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
since from what model or production year we need to register the battery?
my car is from 2002 and I'm dealing with this issue cause I need to replace mine soon, I´m not sure if requires registration or not.
current rides: bmw E65 730d 02, bmw E39 530d touring 01
My car failed emmessions because of p1056 and p1060.
Also, my alarm goes off now every 15 minutes.
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