Member
No reply from the local dealers. I think they do not stock it normally. Wonder if i can use this one -> https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...oz-SL2411.html along with this Valvoline 75W140 syntec
Member
... or you could just order it directly.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=ADATB-EA
Marty
Member
Almost got it. Waiting to put it in.
Now there is no sound on turns. When the car is moving, on throttle, it is making a hissing sound. Kind of like vacuum leak on engine or something rubbing on it. To check, while it is making this noise, i put it in N and noise went away. Then in D, it is back. Car is moving when i am doing this and engine rpm is like 2-2.5k. Highway speeds, it is difficult to hear it.
The FM, it makes difference only in the turns right? Or all the time.
Last edited by saneesh8; 01-25-2019 at 10:09 PM.
Member
The friction modifier would only make a difference in turns, as none of the limited slip parts are moving when you go straight. As for the hissing noise, there are a thousand possibilities, and the LSD is not one of them.
Marty
Member
Thanks..I will update after the FM is added..
The noise, i need to put it in jack stands and try to isolate. Hope it is something simple as something touching the wheels or shafts
Member
Was trying to find what is wrong with the old one. Tried to remove the flanges first. The one going to right side, came out easily with a flat head screw driver. It was tight and no slope. The left side, is stuck. Tried
1) Hammering it with a punch to push it out ..
2) Removed the other side including the bearing caps and let it hung.
3) Used 24" pry bars (2 of them)
4) Hammered in little bit and then out..
Not moving. This one, there is slight vertical/horizontal movement and seems not fully inserted (like few mm's off). Looks like the C clip is stuck. Wonder if this slope was making all the noises.
How to remove it? from inside, i can't even see this C clip. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_0462 . Item 1 is stuck possibly because of item 10.
Member
I thought I was going mad, my diff was keeping horrible noise after installing 2 eared M3 3.0 rear cover and so on...Originally Posted by saneesh8
I got it rebuilt 2 times in same summer. ... Still noise, a lot of noise.
Then after year of pain, decided to change my gearbox oil. In goes BMW MTF2. Problem solved. Immediately entirely silent drivetrain.
So I would suggest changing gearbox oil before bigger rebuilds with the rear end.
BTW. symptoms were similar, only mine had the worst noise on the engine braking and then depending how much I was pushing gas. Pitch and volume rised with the speed that I was going. Hot weather it was horrible whining, on really cold day it was almost silent.
Last edited by Remotion; 02-06-2019 at 06:28 PM.
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
Member
So automatic transmission sounds? How many miles are on the current transmission fluid and filter?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Member
Fluid and filter were changed at 114k and car have 13.5k now. Changed it two times within few hundred miles.
Still haven't got time to put the FM. Got sick..
The hissing sound started with new differential. Old one never made this noise (but all the other noises).
Will update after adding the FM.
Member
Finally removed it.
Wedged 3/8" extension bar at 2 places and slightly hammered it. It came out
Member
Disassembled the whole Torsen unit.
All Parts.jpg
Noticed slight looseness inside. Seems it is normal wear.
All cleaned. Now need to reassemble it, replace the carrier bearings, replace the pinion bearing (inner), shim and set the backlash and all.
Never did this before. Learning on the way. Watching lots of YouTube videos.
So far, found only one video / photos of a Torsen internals. All the YT videos are based on clutch based units.
Removing those 4 heavy duty bolts on the unit, was tough for my 250ft/lb impact.
Member
IMG_0197.jpg
IMG_0198.jpg
IMG_0199.jpg
IMG_0200.jpg
IMG_0203.jpg
More pictures
Member
Member
More pictures
IMG_0213.jpg
IMG_0214.jpg
IMG_0216.jpg
- - - Updated - - -
BTW, i checked the teeth pattern before disassembly. As you can see below, it is not centered. Both sides. Used some white lithium grease i had. Need to use the proper one after putting it back.
Accel.jpg
Member
After cleaning thoroughly, repacked the Torsen unit. It was not easy as i thought. Had to assemble all the gears on the top cover first, tie it with a copper wire so that it stays there. Then slide the cover on the top slowly. Took 2 days to figure it out.
Next is replacing the carrier bearings. Planning to use a jaw puller with 3 arms and then install with a threaded rod (It seems hollow in the middle..need to double check). For the race, planning to cut it out (using dremel) and then freeze the new one and insert it.
Member
Cool thread-- thanks for the pictures and notes. Any idea yet what exactly was clunking in the old one? Mine clunks at low speeds when I push in the clutch pedal, take my foot off the accelerator, etc.
Member
The clunk, I think it is the combination of worn out clutch plates (those red color washers and cross hatch pattern) and the 8 worm gears along with the side gears.
I could not find any place that sells these parts.
An interesting link with Torsen -> https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=620729 . Looks identical to the one in our cars.
It seems the way it works is,
1) Output shafts are connected to the side gears (2 of them mated with the cross hatch pattern disk)
2) Side gears are attached / linked to the housing tightly by the clutch plates (2 of them each side with red color thing in the middle).
3) When the ring gear turns by the pinion, because of the friction on the side gears it turns the wheels
4) When one side does not turns properly at turns, it slips on the clutch plates, which turns the worm gears and it will turn the other side side gear more. Thus transferring more torque to other side..
All my assumptions..
More updates later
Member
enjoying all the photos, sir. Thank you for those.
how is the new diff working? Feel any different then the old one? i mean besides the noise.
Member
The new diff is clutch based and 4.1 ratio. Torsen is 4.27 (the one i am working on right now). For me, other than the noise, it is identical. I didn't find any difference in acceleration or the mpg.
Member
interesting. how about the limited slip. does is feel like it "has more lock"?
Member
Didn't tried it purposefully to see if it has more lock or not. Need to try it and see how it behaves. On straight line, it feels exactly same.
Member
Replaced the carrier bearings and the race..
Just before closing it
1.jpg
Pulling bearings..the setup. I was able to remove the bearing completely on one side like this (on the side shown in above picture). The picture below is from the other side. Here, since the arms could not reach properly, it took out only the outer part of the bearing. The inner part, i had to cut it off with a angle grinder. 1 minute job. Totally, 5 minutes to remove both sides
IMG_0225.jpg
Putting new bearings on. Here is the setup. It was easier than i thought. I guess even just hammering would have done it
IMG_0230.jpg
IMG_0231.jpg
That threaded rod and the nuts, washers, all from home depot. 1/2" threaded rod with matching nuts. Used some oil before tightening it.
Member
New bearings installed
IMG_0233.jpg
IMG_0234.jpg
IMG_0235.jpg
IMG_0236.jpg
Member
Now the time to replace the bearing race. Just a flat head screw driver and hammering it took it out..
The setup to remove it. Just hold it vertically and hit it at various angles. 1-2 minutes and it is out.
IMG_0232.jpg
New one, i just hammered it in. Once it reaches level with the caps, i used the old race to hammer it inside (like 1-2 mm is needed)
New races installed.
IMG_0238.jpg
IMG_0239.jpg
Member
The slack in the Torsen ->
I guess this is partially causing the clunk
- - - Updated - - -
BTW, this is the bearing i used -> https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...FG92-V616.aspx
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks