Check engine light with P0012 engine code after valve cover replacement - at wits end

[zeus800]

I know this topic appears to be have been described multiple times on countless other forums, but I believe by issue is unique so bare with me... my car is a 2009 328i...

Ill try to make this short, so i had by valve cover gasket replaced a year ago by a local indy shop due to small leak in back of gasket, every thing was fine until I got a call from my wife that on her way to work the car was hesitant. Long and short it ended up being a CCV issue -- classic presentation with hight pitched whistling and increased pressure noted when attempting to lift oil fill cap and car went into limp mode.

I purchased BMW brand valve cover (which came with seals) from FCP euro as well as coils (Delphi), spark plugs w/spark metal shims, Eccentric shaft sensor (OEM - VDO/Continental) and replaced it all (battery was disconnected throughout the whole process).

Issues during install was first - due to misfire on cylinder four which was related to coil pack connection with wire harness at that cylinder not being seated well -- which i fixed, but then when i tried to fire the care up the engine wouldn't turn. and got DME error, reason being that despite having negative terminal off during repairs the battery had lost charge so I jumped the car and suddenly everything worked great. there was some slight surging at idle but that resolved. Now for the issue I'm having.

So the error codes that came up were 2A82, and 2A87. I replaced both exhaust and intake solenoids with brand new BMW brand solenoids from dealer, and cleared the codes.

The car idled fine however after rescanned car new error codes of P0012 and P0015 showed up. I cleared all the codes after I cleared adaptations and car check engine light disappeared. I drove the car the remainder of the day with no issues, until the code returned with the code P0012. I already had an appointment with the dealer to replace the PCV valve that was under recall and in the process change the oil.

Prior to the taking to dealer I did unscrew the oil filter cap and noted IT DID have a cage, but I spent the $35 dollars and bought a brand new oil filter cap with new gaskets. The dealer changed the PCV valve and changed the oil. (NOTE: I change oil every 5-7000mi.) I am the original owner of the car.

The next day I drove the car with no problems or check engine light. At a stop light on the way home the car surged ever so slightly to 900-1000rpm and returned to baseline at 650-700rpm. the engine light returned. I swapped the VANOS and in the process I noted that the intake vanos solenoid had little to no oil on it while the exhaust vanos solenoid was covered in oil. After swapping, I reset the code and the car was totally normal with no surging and was idling well as it pretty much had been, UNTIL... later in the day I parked it in the garage and just prior to turning off the engine to get out the check engine light came on AGAIN, I rescanned the car with the same returning code P0012.

So i have no idea what the problem is -- I do not want to keep throwing parts at the car, but it has been well taken care of and has only 105,000 mi on it.

Possibilities include the following:
- crankshaft position sensor issue -- though i doubt this -- I have a brand new sensor with o-rings from BMW in box, just reluctant to do it as I was hoping to return the part to get my money back from FCP euro
- timing is truly off -- though hard for me to believe with a chain driven timing
- wire-harness issue -- though i doubt this as well
- cam ledge seals are worn -- though hard for me to believe as engine was changed religiously and car is not driven "hard" and there is no appreciable ticking per se -- the engine sounds and runs smooth, furthermore correct me if I am wrong but my car should have the Teflon rings this less likely for this to occur
- coil pack issue -- as the cars originally coil packs were the bosch kind and I opted for delphi from FCP euro due to reviews and recommendations (note: I did find the connectors from the coil to the harness not to have that nice click feel that bosch coil packs had, though i have read about this before on reviews).

I hope anyone can give me some insight or direct me on the right path with this issue; this P0012 code solving has become an obsession for me. If you have read this far thank you for listening and your time.

Happy Holidays

[zeus800]

So I took the car finally to a local independent shop. They rechecked everything I did. Prior to taking it to them I even replaced the camshaft position sensors as well as replaced the vanos non-return check valves (both of them). The shop checked the timing and it was IN time. The Vanos gear center bolt was not loose (obvious since I did not touch these) They look at the camshaft ledge seal on the intake and though they looked fine. So they put everything back together and flashed the computer and updated the software. Still check engine light returns. They even drained the oil placed a quart of transmission fluid and the rest with oil in the engine and let it run in hopes that it cleans deposits that might cause sticking of the vanos gears and then drained the oil and replaced it all with clean fresh oil. The check engine light STILL RETURNED. They think that the computer needs to re-learn/adapt over next 100-200 miles. Since then the check engine light comes on and goes off from time to time. Still really annoying.

Anyways after thinking about it all I have come to the conclusion that it is either truly the camshaft ledge that needs replacing or the eccentric shaft sensor that i purchased from FCPEuro.com which is a VDO-Continental is faulty and causing these issues. I will drive for another 100 miles if it returns i plan to replace the eccentric shaft sensor with a bmw branded one. Will keep you all updated. If anyone has any input or opinions please respond. I will try to post the intake camshaft bearing ledge seal picture the mechanic took with his phone and sent to me.


Regards

[zeus800]

UPDATE AS PROMISED:

So the codes returned: 2A82, 2A87. I sent the car back to the shop to have them replace the camshaft bearing ledge. They finally removed the exhaust ledge and showed me the intake ledge. The intake ledge to them looked fine. The only codes they appear to be getting are from the exhaust side prior to disassembly. The head mechanic and owner of the shop told me that it appears the ledge particularly the upper portion of the clam shell appeared worn. Looking at the partial picture of the camshaft i noted that it had the old metalring instead of the new teflon ones even though this car is a 2009 328i sedan (assembled in south africa).

My question now is the following:
1. Does the camshaft appear worn on the limited picture i have posted??
2. Should i replace the entire exhaust just in case now that i am in there, the mechanic believes it looks fine?
3. Should i prophylactically have the intake camshaft seals replaced as well even though the mechanic states it does not appear worn?


Please let me know ASAP they expect to complete the work this week.


Regards

IMG_2783.jpgIMG_2785.jpgIMG_2787.jpgIMG_2788.jpg20190208_.jpg

***The first three pictures are of the EXHAUST and the Exhaust CAM. The last photo is of the INTAKE camshaft ledge

[sitorp116]

UPDATE AS PROMISED:

So the codes returned: 2A82, 2A87. I sent the car back to the shop to have them replace the camshaft bearing ledge. They finally removed the exhaust ledge and showed me the intake ledge. The intake ledge to them looked fine. The only codes they appear to be getting are from the exhaust side prior to disassembly. The head mechanic and owner of the shop told me that it appears the ledge particularly the upper portion of the clam shell appeared worn. Looking at the partial picture of the camshaft i noted that it had the old metalring instead of the new teflon ones even though this car is a 2009 328i sedan (assembled in south africa).

My question now is the following:
1. Does the camshaft appear worn on the limited picture i have posted??
2. Should i replace the entire exhaust just in case now that i am in there, the mechanic believes it looks fine?
3. Should i prophylactically have the intake camshaft seals replaced as well even though the mechanic states it does not appear worn?


Please let me know ASAP they expect to complete the work this week.


Regards

IMG_2783.jpgIMG_2785.jpgIMG_2787.jpgIMG_2788.jpg20190208_.jpg

***The first three pictures are of the EXHAUST and the Exhaust CAM. The last photo is of the INTAKE camshaft ledge

I have a 2011 E92 328xi thats having similar problems. Dealership has told me that most likely my Exhaust Camshaft ledge needs to be replaced but I was under the same impression that my N52 engine came with the upgraded teflon seals so I've kinda been hesitant that and the dealership is quoting me around $2800 to have the Exhaust camshaft ledge replaced. Also from the pics doesn't look worn at all just normal wear and tear IMO for a car over 100k

[zeus800]

So I had the exhaust camshaft bearing ledge replaced with seals (did not replace the camshaft) as well as the vanos intake and exhaust gears and the exhaust vanos code still returns!!!!!!! At this point I don't know what to do. There are only two possibilities left:




1. the DME has issues and needs to be replaced and recoded from BMW (per Indy shop no reports issues from their scanner indicating a DME issue).


2. the eccentric shaft sensor i replaced with a VDO one from the original could be causing communication issues -- though i have been told that this is highly unlikely as this eccentric shaft sensor would not allow the car to run and if there was an issue would cause the exhaust valves during the combustion cycle to remain open and cause a no start and this sensor is separate from the vanos system




if anyone could help me with this I would greatly appreciate this, otherwise my plan is to drop in a used N52 engine from a company that carries and sells salvaged car engines of this make and model.... I have reached the end from any information I have read online in regards to this issue. (time was checked 3-4 times and was confirmed with a BMW master tech from the dealer who helped me off the clock.

[zeus800]

so i had the exhaust camshaft bearing ledge replaced with seals (did not replace the camshaft) as well as the vanos intake and exhaust gears and the exhaust vanos code still returns!!!!!!! At this point i don't know what to do. There are only two possibilities left:




1. The dme has issues and needs to be replaced and recoded from bmw (per indy shop no reports issues from their scanner indicating a dme issue).


2. The eccentric shaft sensor i replaced with a vdo one from the original could be causing communication issues -- though i have been told that this is highly unlikely as this eccentric shaft sensor would not allow the car to run and if there was an issue would cause the exhaust valves during the combustion cycle to remain open and cause a no start and this sensor is separate from the vanos system




if anyone could help me with this i would greatly appreciate this, otherwise my plan is to drop in a used n52 engine from a company that carries and sells salvaged car engines of this make and model.... I have reached the end from any information i have read online in regards to this issue. (time was checked 3-4 times and was confirmed with a bmw master tech from the dealer who helped me off the clock.

just to clarify; the only code i get is that the exhaust cam is over-retarted p0015

[ferchoo1]

I replaced cover gasket on 2007 328i after finished started the car and run for a few minutes fine then dies a missfire codes. Any suggestions Thanks!

[ferchoo1]

I replaced cover gasket on 2007 328i after finished started the car and run for a few minutes fine then dies P0012 codes and missfire codes. Any suggestions Thanks!

not starting only cranking

[zeus800]

The issue I had with mine when i replaced it was that I had put too much dielectric grease on one of the coil packs and it slipped off, so got missfires at cylinder 1 and 6, after i wiped off the grease and they seated well the car would not start as I realized my battery had drained so i jump start it and it solved the issue.

[Axefxpwner]

In the same situation, you can take a peak at my post to see if there is anything you haven't looked at. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...sors-valve-cov

One thing I've found, is that if I put the key in, turn the ignition on without starting the engine, take key out, put key back in and start engine, it runs pretty good. Not amazing. Pretty good.

At this point I was wondering about my bearing ledges as well, or the magnet guides on the camshafts. The camshaft sensors are basically hall sensors, so if your magnet guides were damaged or gone, they wouldn't communicate properly with the sensors.
I'm too wondering about my timing being an issue, but the more I read about it, the more I doubt, as the chain crank/timing system is actually pretty good.

I haven't checked my valvetronic motor with a 12v battery yet, but I suspect it is ok, as I've relearned the timing in ISTA+ and could hear it moving. I'm probably going to use a 4mm allen to turn the valvetronic motor adjustor all the way clockwise, and then turn it 14 times back, which should be where it needs to be.

Sorry if this was all over the place. P0012 and P0015 also messing with my brain.

[JDStrickland]

just to clarify; the only code i get is that the exhaust cam is over-retarted p0015

I'm missing something. You stated here that you have P0015, but your post is titled P0012.


P0012 is the OBD-II generic code indicating the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the intake camshaft timing for bank 1 is more retarded than what the ECM has commanded it be. This over-retarded timing condition could be during the advancing or retarding phase of the camshaft timing.

[zeus800]

After finally downloading and using ISTA + i was able to test the vanos actuators individually, and found that the exhaust side performed perfect, but the intake side failed the test due to mechanical failure and went into a safe mode. The plan now is to change the intake camshaft actuator (gear) in hopes that the problems resolves.

Here is the info I received from the Vanos Test:


IMG_0928.jpg

[sleeper bird]

it seems you and i are in the same exact boat except iv got a 335i,iv stopped short of cam ledges though.If and when you solve it please let us know im at a loss as well.

[Austinw210]

Zeus800 - Have you had any luck since your last post? i recently bought a n54 135i. it would barely run, found out the oil filter cage was missing. then car would run fine but throw p0012 under light acceleration. pulled intake cam ledge out and was scored pretty good from the metal cam o rings. i have no idea how long the cage was missing for but i assume that is why my ledge was so worn. i just intalled new intake ledge today with upgraded teflon o rings. car idles normal and under boost drives fine but under light acceleration i still get the same p0012 code. my next test is to get the cable to connect to ista and inpa and run the same vanos test you just did. any ideas will help.
only thing i can think of is that i have china vanos solenoids (came with the car when i got it) but ive swapped them and even put a brand new china sensor in and still only throws p0012 code for intake.
sorry if this isnt very clear
i was surprised a new ledge didnt fix my issue especially seeing how grooved it was where the rings ride

[zeus800]

UPdate: I changed the Intake Vanos actuator and after putting everything back together. The code returned!!!

Thinking back I believe that when the oil pan was dropped to change the gasket by an independent shop I suspect they either used some RTV on the gasket that clogged the pick up tube, or maybe cracked the pick up tube? Or the oil pump is bad?

I need to check the oil pressures on the car again. Does anyone have a good way of doing this and what tools you specifically used to do this and where to buy them? . I bought a harbor freight oil pressure testing kit and once i placed the fittings where the oil sender unit goes, i got pressures but i mean the damn thing was leaking around the fittings and making a mess -- so i aborted early. Any assistance with this would be appreciated.

[zeus800]

Update 1/20/2022!!

So I had a local BMW Indy shop take off the oil pan with plans to replace the oil pump and pick up tubes and found some plastic debris and an oil squirter detached from cylinder two laying down in the pan!!!

They removed the cap the evaluate the bearing on the cylinder and it looked fine. In addition they installed a new oil pump and pick up tube, and replaced the oil squirter. The codes were cleared and have not returned. I will let you all know soon if the code (2A82) returns.🤓

[zeus800]

72FC855E-08E3-4805-B93B-17BA1B04C422.jpeg740D95B9-98AB-47DC-9E9A-D84D90749A11.jpeg5AF5B75B-CC50-44AC-B112-7CC3DEF4D9DF.jpeg


Has anyone ever seen this before?!!!! Car currently has 138,000 miles

[zeus800]

Let me know what you all think. SO FAR SO GOOD, code did NOT return and the car drives great.

[Adalbertogrc]

hello zeus,

i have had all of the same symptoms that you have mentioned above and had gone as far as the Venos, i have also had the oil pan gasket replace about a year ago. i am wondering if that is the issue of it all. did the oil pump fix actually take care of code p112?

[drewusmaximus]

72FC855E-08E3-4805-B93B-17BA1B04C422.jpeg740D95B9-98AB-47DC-9E9A-D84D90749A11.jpeg5AF5B75B-CC50-44AC-B112-7CC3DEF4D9DF.jpeg


Has anyone ever seen this before?!!!! Car currently has 138,000 miles

That oil squirter looks like it's the squirter that feeds the eccentric shaft. The screw has an oil passage, so it might be the screw that fastens that oil squirter and oil flows through that screw, feeding the squirter. Why it undid itself is a great question, unless someone was in there in the past and didn't torque that screw correctly.

[zeus800]

Please to report that I have had no issues since replacement. The oil squirter was likely the culprit. The lack of constriction caused by the oil squirter normally being there likely caused the oil pressure to slight drop and thus preventing enough pressure built up to advance the vanos cam and advance or retard the cams appropriately. As far as why this happened, I am unsure. It could have been not torqued to spec from the manufacterer or when i had the oil pan seal replaced, the mechanic was mucking around up there when he should not have been -- which would have been intentional as they would have to remove the shield to access the area: (note: I am the original owner of the car, so I know the entire history and who has been in there). Regardless, I only replaced the pump as a preventative maintenance as we were in there.