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Thread: After Hours Autosports E36 Pro-Am build

  1. #76
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    Looks real good. Got me excited for getting my turd painted and on new wheels.
    instagram @andyitslit

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Dog boxes are filled with weed and plutonium.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Have you seen this?

    https://tiremeetsroad.com/2019/03/27...ing-for-drugs/

  3. #78
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    No! Wow wtf! That's insane.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  4. #79
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    Wow that wrap completely transformed the car.

    That t56 you had problems with - did you just buy a dog tooth gearset for it and have it installed by someone else or was that a complete transmission from someone?

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    Wow that wrap completely transformed the car.

    That t56 you had problems with - did you just buy a dog tooth gearset for it and have it installed by someone else or was that a complete transmission from someone?
    It was one Josh had laying around (in the form of a box of parts). I'm not sure exactly what else he got for it, I think it was this https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56...t1-ls1-f-body/ but paid to have it rebuilt by a local "t56 specialist" shop. We suspect the problem was they re-used a shift fork that was bent.

  6. #81
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    It has arrived!
    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Going in for a test fit. Changing trans on these swapped cars with the engine in is ROUGH. Both headers have to come off, and you have to unbolt the trans from the bellhousing first, then take the bellhousing and pressure plate out as one unit. Interesting getting the new one in, as you have to put it all up and snake it in together, then pull the bellhousing back and line the PP up, and then install the bolts one at a time at the 6:00 position through a gap in the bellhousing and engine. I even removed the steering shaft and dropped the subframe a few inches and it didn't help.

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    by novablue454, on Flickr

    by novablue454, on Flickr

    It's in! Modified the Sikky T56 mount, had to cut more out of the tunnel for the shifter assembly, cut some of the bellhousing flange out for the headers, and now the shifter hits the hydro lol.

    by novablue454, on Flickr

    A little heat and BFH solved the shifter issue, at least temporarily.

    by novablue454, on Flickr

    Bled it last night and the TOB leaks from one of the stupid swivel fittings, so ordering a new one today and taking it back out.

  7. #82
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    That's why I hate internal slaves. Ugh.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  8. #83
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    Honestly, I just pull the whole engine and trans out together whenever I pull the trans. It probably takes more time but it’s a lot less frustrating.

  9. #84
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    And looks like you could really use a Pro 5.0 t56 shifter handle. It leans towards the driver at 17* and is ~8” tall.

  10. #85
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    Update: Turns out this Mcleod was custom made for this and there is no off the shelf part that they sell to replace it, so the options are either rebuild it or send it in and wait for them to use it as a template for a new one. Ordered a rebuild kit from Summit. There is a seal on the top of the swivel fitting that seems to be the culprit, and apparently from reading reviews its extremely common. I also tried to switch to a Tilton as they seem to be better reviewed, but theirs are designed to be bolted in to the bellhousing from the engine side, so that won't work without pulling the engine. Guess we will see what new O rings do!

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

  11. #86
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    I put a Speedway fitting on mine.

    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-L...AaAtiwEALw_wcB

  12. #87
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    that seems like a better option, however with this bellhousing there is 0 clearance for the fittings to fit though, you have to pivot them straight towards the engine and then turn them towards the side opening once it's in if that makes sense. The red part of the TOB actually touches the bellhousing all the way around, so it has to be the 90* swivels.

  13. #88
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    Speedway also sells 90* lines and fittings.

    AFAF3299-381B-44F9-AABF-61C15DA16F4F.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #89
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    well, we are pretty much finished (for now). Car is going to Mofab next week for an alignment and dyno tune. We have our debut car show the next weekend and then rd 1 of our local series the next. The plan is to try to get out and test on a weekday as soon as possible after the tune. Here's some photos of everything together. Some interior parts just never showed up (heel plates and glovebox delete panel) and I am a little bummed about it, but we can always address that if they ever do.

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

    Untitled by novablue454, on Flickr

  15. #90
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    Can’t wait to see this things rip.

  16. #91
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    Last edited by Novablue454; 06-06-2019 at 02:03 PM.

  17. #92
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    Link works for me.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  18. #93
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    not how I hoped but whatever. There should be more media coming out soon.

    Anyway, got the car to Mofab for the tune, did 410/390whp. The cam choice isn't working great for his driving style right off the bat, so time will tell if he gets used to it or if we end up swapping cams in the future.

    The car was getting a little warm after about 5 hotlaps, so we ordered a CFR triple pass radiator, and the ebay special TB crapped out at the end of the day so a Nick Williams is on the way as well.

  19. #94
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    What's the fan/shroud setup like?

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  20. #95
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    just a stock replacement mishimoto single pass with an aluminum shroud and spal 16" fan.

  21. #96
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    What's the CFM rating on the spal? Both the rad and the fan seem undersized for the abuse it's given.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  22. #97
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    5 laps is a lot. No competition is ever going to see work like that.

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    What's the CFM rating on the spal? Both the rad and the fan seem undersized for the abuse it's given.
    3000cfm when I looked up the part number. I can't find anything bigger than that while also fitting the space.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    5 laps is a lot. No competition is ever going to see work like that.
    Yeah, 4 laps (OMT) is about it so its not a HUGE concern, these cars reach a point where they just aren't going to be hotlapping all day cars anymore.

  24. #99
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    Runs are not the same as hot lapping. Hot lapping means doing full laps on a circuit with no shut down time. If you meant 5 runs made it overheat, then yeah that’s definitely a problem.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    Runs are not the same as hot lapping. Hot lapping means doing full laps on a circuit with no shut down time. If you meant 5 runs made it overheat, then yeah that’s definitely a problem.
    Well, I am not sure the exact length of the track, I think its about a mile. Its a loop, so technically its "hot lapping" but most common is to stop on the back straight and take it easy until the front section. Basically green is where most people drift and red is where they "cool down"

    imi by novablue454, on Flickr

    - - - Updated - - -

    and by warm I mean it hit 235*, my Camaro runs at 220-225 constantly. Also in my searching years ago I discovered that CTSV fans aren't programmed on until 220* and the service manual lists the max as 245*

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