Wheel bearing replacement with some pics

[solimans]

Hi all, finished my bearings recently. Just thought I'd share in case this helps someone.


1999 Z3 coupe 2.8


I searched z3 bearings on youtube and watched all the videos i could find, several times.


Here are the special tools I used. Beyond these you should have all the standard type tools. Large and small metic wrenches, torque wrench, sockets, hex sockets, torx sockets, pliers, hammer, screw drivers, punches, etc. An impact gun helps. Large Circlip pliers would help. I used needle nose pliers.


Special tools from amazon:


1-puller / press (used this for rear): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2-puller / press (used this for front): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3-front collar nut socket (large 46 mm): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4-rear collar nut socket (30mm): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


5-I also ended up needing a sledge hub puller to get the rear hubs off. Rented from AutoZone.


6-large breaker arm 3 ft. 4 ft even better




Parts:


-Front hub with bearing (replaced the hub and bearing)
-front collar nut
-front dust cap (front of hub)
-front dust cap (rear of hub)


-Rear bearings
-Rear hubs (not required)
-rear circlips
-rear collar nut
-rear securing plate / collar nut lock




Torque specs (check these. may change by model)


Torque specs front:


-brake rotor to wheel hub (allen bolt) 12 ft-lb
-collar nut to stub axle 214 ft-lb
-brake caliper to strut housing 81 ft-lb
-road wheel to hub 90 ft-lb


Torque specs back:


-brake rotor to drie flange (hub) 12 ft-lb
-brake caliper to trailing arm 50 ft-lb
-drive axle collar nut to wheel hub 148 ft-lb
-drive axle to differential flange M10 x 20 Torx 61 ft-lb
-wheel to hub 90 ft-lb



The circlip in the rears were a bit of a pain. Also if you remove the emergency brake in the rear study it well before removing. Bit of a pain to get back together also. The second one is easier.

I'll try and put up some pics as well.






- - - Updated - - -

pics seem to be upside down? i'll repost these and add some a bit later...

[saneesh8]

How many miles on it?

Was experiencing the "Wah wah" sound?

[Randy Forbes]

I always found it a lot easier to disconnect the handbrake cable at the lever (interior) than to mess with all those fussy bits.

[solimans]

How many miles on it?

Was experiencing the "Wah wah" sound?

no "wah wah" sound, saneesh8, but I'm coming up to 200k miles so I'm replacing "everything"

next the subframe bushes...

[solimans]

I always found it a lot easier to disconnect the handbrake cable at the lever (interior) than to mess with all those fussy bits.

So many bits :/

You pull the cables out entirely for this job?

I used the e-brake to lock the axle when torquing the half-shaft bolts and the collar nut...

[solimans]

more pics. sorry they are upside down. not sure why?

IMG_9365.jpg

IMG_9372.jpg

IMG_9373.jpg

IMG_9378.jpg

IMG_9381.jpg

[saneesh8]

Thanks for uploading the pictures and for sharing the details. One day, i might have to do it. ~139k now.

[solimans]

Thanks for uploading the pictures and for sharing the details. One day, i might have to do it. ~139k now.

Mighty welcome, saneesh. So much good information on this board...just trying to give back


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Randy Forbes]

So many bits :/

You pull the cables out entirely for this job?

I used the e-brake to lock the axle when torquing the half-shaft bolts and the collar nut...

The leather boot lifts up (that's #1), remove two jam-nuts (#s 2 & 3), remove two adjustment nuts (#s 4 & 5) and finally, remove the plate-washer (#6). Six (6) "bits" and that's for both sides.

I pull the cables out, because if I'm doing wheel bearings, that trailing arm bushes are part of the job too, so I'm taking the trailing arm completely off the car.

Unless I'm tasked with replacing either the handbrake cables and/or shoes, I don't disassemble them__it's a hateful task.

[solimans]

The leather boot lifts up (that's #1), remove two jam-nuts (#s 2 & 3), remove two adjustment nuts (#s 4 & 5) and finally, remove the plate-washer (#6). Six (6) "bits" and that's for both sides.

I pull the cables out, because if I'm doing wheel bearings, that trailing arm bushes are part of the job too, so I'm taking the trailing arm completely off the car.

Unless I'm tasked with replacing either the handbrake cables and/or shoes, I don't disassemble them__it's a hateful task.

I see. Makes sense. Bigger job. The e-brakes were the most hateful part. haha

I would have left mine on but I replaced the splash shields...so they had to come off. I'll probably upgrade the brakes at some point and have to do this again. They were pretty worn. Probably original.