Thrust arm install hints

[ConvGeorge]

So I just got done replacing my thrust arms, just a couple of helpful hints that may make it quicker for the next guy. Not a whole write-up, that's been done.

So this is actually a pretty easy job, there are really two sticking points. They are getting the ball joint out from the front, and removing the bolts in the back bushing. I recommend doing them in this order for removal, and do the bushings first when installing.

To start - the ball joints. People claim they had no luck with the pickle forks. The secret is the angle. You have to position the fork so you're driving it from the center of the car outwards. If you try to use it so the fork is going front to back, you'll hit something under the strut that prevents it from moving far enough to pop the ball joint free. Once I had the right angle, two whacks of the hammer and they popped out.

Second - the bushing bolts. The passenger side one is pretty easy, you just have to have the wheels in the right position, and the bolt will slide right over the tie rod. The driver's side one is trickier. No matter what position the tie rod is in, the bolt won't come out. The secret is to loosen the pitman arm from the steering box. Once this is done, you can slide it down about 1/2 way, and then there is enough clearance to slide the bolt out. I took the trouble of marking the position of the pitman arm, but didn't really need to, since it didn't come all the way off. Remember not to turn the wheels unless the bushing bolt is all the way in, or you'll bend the bolt (pretty amazing, it's a huge bolt, but I did it the first time I did this job when I first bought my car) as the tie rod swings by. Put the new thrust arm in, put the bolt back in the bushing and then slide the pitman arm back up and tighten.

Remember not to tighten the bushing bolts until you have the full weight of the car on the wheels.

[RIboater2]

You're right on several counts. I just did these and lower control arms. I suggest also changing the lower control arms at the same time as these all seem to wear out about the same time.
You can use a pickle fork as long as you're on the right angle. It will hit the bottom of the strut preventing it from popping the joint.
You can remove the driver side bushing without dropping the pitman. it's trial and error to move turn the wheel just right to give the clearance needed to slide the bolt out just far enough. You can't and don't need to fully remove it. I've done it both ways and YES, if you have the bolt out and turn the wheel you will bend that bolt. Did the same thing as you first time doing the job. You live you learn lol.
Also installing the bushing first is easier as you'll have play in the ball joint to get it inserted and seated.

[Narlift]

Common mistake a lot of people have made- don't forget to take the big long bolt all of the way out before turning the wheels or youll bend it and need to get another.

[ConvGeorge]

You're right on several counts. I just did these and lower control arms. I suggest also changing the lower control arms at the same time as these all seem to wear out about the same time.
You can use a pickle fork as long as you're on the right angle. It will hit the bottom of the strut preventing it from popping the joint.
You can remove the driver side bushing without dropping the pitman. it's trial and error to move turn the wheel just right to give the clearance needed to slide the bolt out just far enough. You can't and don't need to fully remove it. I've done it both ways and YES, if you have the bolt out and turn the wheel you will bend that bolt. Did the same thing as you first time doing the job. You live you learn lol.
Also installing the bushing first is easier as you'll have play in the ball joint to get it inserted and seated.

I had replaced the lowers and the tie rods earlier this year, so no change of those was required. Now that I think about it, it is indeed possible I could have just pulled the drivers side bolt out just enough, but given how easy it was to lower the pitman arm (just loosen one bolt, takes all of 30 seconds) and then I wouldn't have to worry about bending the bolt while it was slid out, I'd just lower the pitman again.