Greetings. Recently I replaced my steering box and central steering bar. I went to the tyre shop to align it, and found these results: Foto1415.jpg
This kinda worries me, as nothing in the rear end is adjustable. Subframe bushes have already been replaced with Lemförder's, and the control arm bushings still look OK (no cracks and don't feel weak). Any advice here?
Last edited by megastihl; 02-22-2021 at 02:44 PM.
worst case, but check more: we had 2 cases of bent rear subframes on E32 Alpina B12. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-trailing-arms we replaced the complete subframe, as I had a spare one.
K-Mac has some kits: BMW.. E23, E24, E28, E32, E34 Rear Camber & Toe Bush Kit Bushing https://k-mac.com/product/bmw-e23-e2...-bush-193326h/
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW...orshlag-turner
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/861562/
abt. 8 years back I bought such a correction kit for a buddy which had a small accident, someone crashed in his rear tire/wheel. We changed a lot of parts but still a slight uncorrection. Found this here and bought 2 sets, as it has to be welded on:
Rear camber and toe correction kit, weld on, For BMW e28, e30, e32, e34, e36 318ti, Z3, CNC laser cut and bent brackets. Factory BMW hardware. Set of 8 brackets and 4 bolts with hardware. Professional installation recommended
#RTTC30F from this shop https://www.akgmotorsport.com/select-model/
also check these
02 Set rubber mounting eccentric D=44MM 33329058824 ENDED as per realoem, but still available https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/33329058824/
http://bmwteilekatalog24.info/Classi...21/33329058824
02 Set rubber mounting D=44MM 33329061946
plus # 6 dogbone
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_0222
Last edited by shogun; 12-18-2018 at 11:40 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
This post is gold. Thanks shogun! I was also thinking about eccentric bushings from powerflex. I love poly, but not for my E32, as E32 should be leaning towards comfort, and not sporty driving. These eccentric bushes on ECStuning don't look eccentric on the image, but if they are, this might be my best bet for now, but the problem is: if it fits, it fits. It's not like you can adjust them while on the alignment bank like you can with a lot of poly-variants. Otherwise, that weld-on set might also do the trick, but it involves more work and another pare of hands as my welding skills are a disaster.
Thanks for the reply!
Last edited by megastihl; 12-19-2018 at 02:03 AM.
I hope this won't be a double post. Had some issues while replying.
I replaced my rear trailing arm bushings. Well, I'm in the middle of it. Had to take the entire arm off as I couldn't get the bushings out. They were too tight and my threared bushing remover got bent trying to press the bushing out.
Arm is out, removed it that way. Before removing the old ones I remembered how they were fit, because one side of the metal sleeve sticks out further than the other one. The sleeves stick out towards the inside of the car. Strangely, on the other arm (still underneath the car) the bushings' sleeves point towards the OUTSIDE of the car. So I'm starting to think that the last person who replaced them inserted them the wrong way, causing the arm to sit a few millimeters more outwards, maybe causing the toe to be more negative.
I'll let you know the result once it's all done. Just wanted to share this with you guys. The more info out there, the better.
Interesting, make some pictures of the repair and the old and new ones.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
old ones are already out. I'm in the middle of trying to get the new ones in, but it's the tightest fit I've ever seen. One is halfway in and can't get it any further. My threaded rod is bending and can't take it under my 20 ton press. I might have to take the arm to a shop that has a bigger press. I'll report back when all is said and done.
The other side (which is not urgent as there was no play or alignment issues there) I will do in the future, as I really had enough for now. Had to drill/saw the old bushings out.
I'll add some pics soon
Couldn't get it under my press, broke off 2 M12 threared rods trying to press the bushing in with a threaded press push/pull tool. Took it to a shop asking if they could press the bushings in. If it doesn't fit their press (pretty large trailing arm) I might have to take it to a truck shop. I've pressed many bushings, but these are by far the most stubborn ones I've ever done.
Took the trailing arm to a shop, they kinda ruined it, bent it, by pressing one bush in, and letting it rest on the other one, so the other side of the arm. So yeah, it bent, I could have said that from the start.
So I improvised. I used a push/pull threaded rod kit to replace bushings, and placed it in between the 2 holes where the bushings go. That way it couldn't bend if I put it under my press to press the bushings in. And it worked! Took a shitton of force to get them in. By far the most difficult ones I ever had to press in. After that I tightened up the rod/metal sleeves that were in between to bend the arm back to its original shape. It was only 4 millimeters bent but that might have been enough to ruin the alignment specs. So luckily it all went well. I'm not frustrated by getting the E-brake springs back on there. Something I truly hate.DSCN6673.jpg
What bushings are you putting in to get proper toe angle, eccentric ones you mentioned?
I am out of spec as well and maybe I follow your solution.
Thanks
I used Meyle (OEM replacement) ones, no eccentric ones (yet) I thought the toe might have been off simply because the bushings were completely shot. I'll report back and if this shit didn't help, I'll have t oget eccentric ones (strongflex probably)
we had a press, but actually we used a u-clamp from Harborfreight like Erwin shows here, that works http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/507089/
search for C-frame ball joint press
https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-j...les-63279.html
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
that thing would have snapped. I used an M12x1.5 threaded push/pull thing at first, and had to use a 1 meter breaker bar to apply enough force for the bushing to actually start moving (before the threaded bar snapped in half). Even with my hydraulic press I had to apply quiet a few tons of force before it started to move.
Last edited by megastihl; 02-27-2021 at 03:30 PM.
Succes. Trailing arm installed, torqued while under load, took it for a quick drive and my first impression is that the rear toe is ok now. I had to turn my steering wheel to the right to drive straight, now my wheel is close to straight, if not straight. But what I did notice is that one of my subframe bushings is slightly more downwards than the other. See picture. As if the inner sleeve sunk around the rubber. Both bushings are only 15k km old, Lemförder, and torqued to spec. Any input here? Is one of them gone and should I replace it?
Anyone?
e32.jpg
Were the subframe bushings Chinese Lemförder or German? A couple of years ago I got a set of Chinese ones that looked like bottom-barrel junk with a Lemf logo on it. Sent them back, got genuine ones made in Germany, also with a Lemf logo on them but even an untrained eye could've seen they were much higher quality.
Those bushings are some of the tightest I've ever pressed. Here was my solution:
I agree that these bushings are the tightest ones I have ever done. Period. Your solution seems even easier. Unfortunately I did not have this stuff at my disposal :P
The lemförders from the rear subframe, I assume they were legit. Original box and original logo and stuff. Don't shoot me if I'm wrong, I replaced them 5 years ago, but the car only has 15k miles on it ever since.
Last edited by shogun; 03-12-2021 at 06:49 PM.
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