Where's a good place to pull 'switched' power from, near steering column?

[jpilk99]

I know I've been beatin' a dead-horse with my Heated Steering Wheel travails, so I thought I'd post a short 'n sweet question on where folks would go for a good "switched" power source; ideally near the steering column. I saw one DIY where someone went off the ash-tray in the center console. Seems like a bit of work to run the wire back to the steering wheel area.

Any great ideas are well appreciated!

Jay

[racer2086]

Use one of the empty pins on the ignition switch. I'm pretty sure (can't remember 100%) that pin 10 on that connector is used from the factory for the heated wheel. You can verify with WDS.

You can remove the pins out of a junk car. To do it, buy the pin removal tool at the auto parts store. Then unplug the connector, disassemble the outer plastic of the connector, and use the pin removal tool to remove a few pins that you can cut out and solder to your steering wheel leads.

This is the tool I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-T.../dp/B0009OR906

[jpilk99]

Use one of the empty pins on the ignition switch. I'm pretty sure (can't remember 100%) that pin 10 on that connector is used from the factory for the heated wheel. You can verify with WDS.

You can remove the pins out of a junk car. To do it, buy the pin removal tool at the auto parts store. Then unplug the connector, disassemble the outer plastic of the connector, and use the pin removal tool to remove a few pins that you can cut out and solder to your steering wheel leads.

This is the tool I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-T.../dp/B0009OR906

Thanks racer; just ordered one.

[jpilk99]

Use one of the empty pins on the ignition switch. I'm pretty sure (can't remember 100%) that pin 10 on that connector is used from the factory for the heated wheel. You can verify with WDS.

You can remove the pins out of a junk car. To do it, buy the pin removal tool at the auto parts store. Then unplug the connector, disassemble the outer plastic of the connector, and use the pin removal tool to remove a few pins that you can cut out and solder to your steering wheel leads.

This is the tool I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-T.../dp/B0009OR906

So. I went back in to try and complete this upgrade and was surprised to see that the purple wire in that ignition wiring connector which I'm tapped into for POS (see picture) not only has 12V switched power, but, it also had about 10ohm resistance with the battery disconnected. I guess this is why I'm not an electrician, but, I thought the NEG had 0 resistance and any POS wires should be on the other end of the scale, (infinite). Again, while the battery was disconnected, I wanted to confirm that my 2 wire connector for the heated wheel was "in correct working order" so I tested the brown NEG wire and got a lovely zero ohms resistance, but, when I tried the POS green wire, I got the 10ohms mentioned.

Is this my problem?

At this point, I'm considering tapping into one of those red wires, full-time POS, with a 30A inline fuse and getting my power from that. I'm assuming the only downside to this is if I leave the heated wheel on ...it will stay on?

[jpilk99]

Use one of the empty pins on the ignition switch. I'm pretty sure (can't remember 100%) that pin 10 on that connector is used from the factory for the heated wheel. You can verify with WDS.

You can remove the pins out of a junk car. To do it, buy the pin removal tool at the auto parts store. Then unplug the connector, disassemble the outer plastic of the connector, and use the pin removal tool to remove a few pins that you can cut out and solder to your steering wheel leads.

This is the tool I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-T.../dp/B0009OR906

Good morning. Please forgive my stupidity, but, I got that tool you mentioned and ...just want to confirm how to use it. I assume I use the proper sized "tube" portion that just fits within the inside diameter of the white plastic connector and outside the wire itself to allow the wire to slip out the back? It wasn't working on first attempt and I didn't want to force anything. Thanks.

In my other ...longstanding post about this heated wheel, I posed the question about the resistance I measured (with battery unplugged) on the purple pin I'm currently spliced into (I think it's the #10 you mentioned) and was surprised that there was about 10ohm resistance between that pin and ground. Does that make sense? I'm considering just tapping into one of the "always on" red wires, with a 30A inline fuse, to see if that will work. Obviously, not ideal, but, I'm almost at my wits end.

Thank you!