I know that feel. Speedway saved my ass with their hydraulic lines.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...610,80037.html
Nice! You're a life saver. Thank you!
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
https://www.instagram.com/p/ByA8-fbn...=1g45q9hq9h1bl
While I'm waiting for that bleeder to come in, I decided to bleed the cooling system. Still a ton of clean up work to do. And an exhaust. But once the clutch works, I wanna take it around the block and annoy some neighbors lol.
Gonna relocate the pcm to the drug bin where my fuse box is. Still need to find switched 12v for my relays. Right now it's off the stock dme which keeps the motor running for 10 seconds after the key is out. Which isn't too bad unless I need to cut the car off in an emergency.
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
One or two of the relays in the stock location turn on/off immediately with the DME, that’s where I took all my power from. I had my fuel pump and coils on the delayed one before I knew it was delayed - caused all sorts of weird problems.
Yea I've been looking for that relay. I only see 2 in the dme box and both do the delay.
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
The light green wire is the normal one, I have it going to the green relay. The lonely brown wire in the other plug is that delayed one. I honestly don’t remember if those are stock colors, I did this years ago.
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Yea but dont I need that for the dme? I guess trip a relay off of that?
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I lost function of my gauges in the process of doing my swap so maybe this has something to do with it. Not sure. I got my pinout schematics from here somewhere and don’t recall ever doing anything that would interfere with them but once again, not sure. However my EWS still functions like stock, that was the only reason I kept the DME, the GM PCM won’t get power without the DME.
I mean, I suppose i could just splice the wire and run a relay through it. The "Ground" of the relay is just the DME. Not sure I like doing it that way though. I'm trying to keep the stock DME in place as much as possible.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Turns out that relay has a second pin 87 that isn't plugged in. So I'll steal a pin from my spare harness and swap it over.
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
So that was cool. I just shoved another connector on the center pin 87 of the main dme power and that worked fine! I also relocated the pcm to the drug bin. This allowed me to put the cover on the dme box. Things look much cleaner now. Just waiting for that clutch bleeder and I can go for a drive!
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
can you install the bleeder with the transmission in?
I already have a remote bleed kit. But there's a plug instead of a bleeder. Sadly, the bleeder was 4an and I think my line is 3.... but the slave bled well enough that I drove it real quick. Enough time to was out the floor in the garage since I'll be on my back doing an exhaust soon.
Also the damn m3 diffs are different and the stubs I put in from an earlier diff leak. So I'll have to extract the broken bolts from the old stubs. But hey, it drives!
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
M3 dif is way bigger, it’s a 210mm dif aka “large” the non-M is a 188 aka “medium”
I know. And the stub lengths are different. I have 2 m3 diffs. Their parts don't interchange at all. I tried swapping innards and that failed. Even the uneven axle stubs go on different sides. Ie the short one is on the passenger side of one but the shorter one is on the drivers side on the other. Like... why... why bmw?
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
You have two identical difs that have different internals? That sounds like one was rebuilt with other parts. When someone ends up with mine, they’re gonna be very surprised to find an e32 4-clutch inside it. That stock mvar is shite.
They're both E46 M3 diffs. I just think there's a year split where they move to a slightly different design.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
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I've had a few questions about my headers so here's what i got. It's some generic LS headers custom made to fit around my custom solid mount arms. Goes straight to a 3" pipe and I've just welded on this remaining bit to complete the down pipe.
Plan is to run 2 high flow cats and flex pipes. Then hit a Y pipe just after the trans ends. Then a single magnaflow in the factory location. Since my motor/trans mounts are solid, I might solid mount the exhaust too. Mainly out of laziness and not having to buy more parts. But I'm not sure that's wise.
I also forgot how hard exhaust pipe is to weld. Even with things butting up 100%, if I weld too slow or my settings are just a tad too hot, I immediately blow through. Also my welding mask likes to get stuck on and I can't see what I'm about to weld until I strike the arc.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
There are no flex joints in the factory exhaust either. But it’s also 400 series stainless which is a lot less crack prone than other steels. I ran with no flex joints for a year with poly mounts, I used a stock M3 exhaust center section. After hitting a wall and smashing the exhaust, I felt very lucky that it didn’t crack my headers, so I added flex joints.
Good point. I'm doing 304 stainless with flex joints. I'll add rubber mounts.
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Random note. The thaniel module won't work for me. Sooo I'm gonna make my own.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Because you kept your DME right? I bought one from him but I never ended up using it for that reason.
Yea I think you can disconnect the can wires from the cluster and do it that way. But it also uses the ls obd2 port. But I use that for datalogging.
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Starting on the exhaust. Having 2 kids kinda limits my time. Pie cut like a mofo for the down pipe. I'm not a great welder and I hate doing exhausts so advice is welcome. Is it bad to do a flex pipe and then the cat?
Planning on temporarily hard mounting the y pipe to where the csb used to mount to. That way I can fully weld that half of the exhaust before doing the rest. One cat will be where the fuel filter is but on the passengers side. The other will be welded to the y pipe. Probably affects efficiency but oh well. No space for the cat before it.
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Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
First pic is the installed drivers side of the exhaust. My new chop saw blade came in so I can stop doing pie cuts with an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. I'm happy with how tight it fits.
Second pix is my cluster with dme plugged in but the can wires snipped. I think I can use my arduino to finish this. Anyone know if the cluster speed wire is 12v or 5v?
Third pic is my son's first ls1 lol. Got it for free. No idea what to do with it. He has a dual motor i8 right now so this isn't needed.
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Last edited by protomor; 06-22-2019 at 06:09 PM.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
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