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Thread: 2000 323i...Lost instrument cluster and hours later lost idle

  1. #1
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    2000 323i...Lost instrument cluster and hours later lost idle

    Sorry if this is a repost, but I searched and couldn't find an answer. Car was fine, started it up (car runs perfectly at the time) and no dash lights, nor cluster is working. Drove it anyway. Hours later I go back out and get about a 1/2 mile from home and car starts to die. Now it won't idle, so I rev it up enough to keep it running and limp it home. First thought it's the ECU, but upon inspection it seems fine. I scan it and get code 1402. I'm advised that a bad ECU will prevent air getting to the fuel system, causing the lack of idle. Still turns over and starts no problem and if revved up runs perfectly. Just no idle and no gauges. After more advice from a 25 year bmw mechanic...he says the ECU rarely goes out on the e46 and since both issues happened on the same day, although not at the same time, he doubts it's the ECU. Fuses and relays all seem fine, at least the ones I can find. I'm stuck. Any seasoned help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    How old is the battery? Have you done the OBC Voltage Check test #9 yet? BMW's are notorious for a myriad of symptoms that can be traced back to the battery.

  3. #3
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    Check the alternator. The car started fine but started to have issues while driving. Use a multimeter on the battery with the engine running. Voltage should be 14v (normal ideal range is 13.5-14.5v) so if your voltage is out of this range either higher or lower you will need to replace the alternator or at least the voltage regulator. If you don't have a multimeter you can use the hidden obc function to read the voltage. Google will show you how to do this.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by All2kool View Post
    How old is the battery? Have you done the OBC Voltage Check test #9 yet? BMW's are notorious for a myriad of symptoms that can be traced back to the battery.
    +1


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  5. #5
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    Battery is about a year old. Multimeter shows the voltage at 14V. As I said before, it also starts and runs perfectly it being revved. it just won't idle and no gauges.

  6. #6
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    One year old. Yes, battery voltage is 14V

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpmgmt View Post
    One year old. Yes, battery voltage is 14V
    When you first do the test, and before you start the car, what is the voltage? After you start the car, the voltage should be 14-14.2. If the car sits for 2-3 days and you do the test again, what is the voltage before starting?

  8. #8
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    What is code 1402? P1402 is an egr code. Your car does not have egr system. What tool did you use to get that code and from what module?

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  9. #9
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    Hi Randy72877. Turns out it was the battery. It tested 14.1 before and 14.2 after, after meaning after turning it over. I was able to get the dash lights and gauges back, but it still won't start. It acts like it's not getting fuel, but the fuel pump is working and it has a full tank. I'm wondering if there's something I have to prime, or reset after the car loses power. Majorly confused..lol.

  10. #10
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    Hi All2Kool. Turns out it was the battery. It tested 14.1 before and 14.2 after, after meaning after turning it over. I was able to get the dash lights and gauges back, but it still won't start. It acts like it's not getting fuel, but the fuel pump is working and it has a full tank. I'm wondering if there's something I have to prime, or reset after the car loses power. Majorly confused..lol.

  11. #11
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    Hey there bluptgm3. You were right! After changing out the battery I got the dash lights and gauges back, but it still won't start. Turns over fine, fuel pump is working, and it's got a full tank. Still acts like it's not getting gas. I'm wondering if there's something I've gotta prime or reset after the car loses power.

  12. #12
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    Oh, and by the way...after the new battery I ran a code scan again and it showed no codes. Just won't start...lol.

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