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Thread: Question on changing upper oil pan gasket?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    91 850i, & 87 924S

    Question on changing upper oil pan gasket?

    I'm working on getting to the oil pan gasket and am following Max Lumen's procedure. I believe I have everything but the steering box out of the way. The improved way is to drop only one side and leave the box attached to the cross member.This requires undoing a couple of lines, oil pump, and taking the steering universal off. Are the 2 bolts holding the steering box really that hard? Seems easier to completely remove the cross member (and that would also make it easier to clean the 25 yrs of crud in the area). Is the only bad part holding the nut for the horizontal bolt? No other surprises?
    Last edited by maint; 12-15-2018 at 11:27 PM.

  2. #2
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    On the E32 M70 we drill holes and the trans can stay in, here some pics
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/732523/
    here we made the holes smaller http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/874322/
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/873996
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
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    91 850i, & 87 924S
    I put the holes in the pan already as I had to tighten the bolts to slow the leak until I could tackle it. Trying to find the best way to get the pan off; completely remove the main cross member or drop the passenger side. To me, not having done it, it seems easier to completely remove the crossmember
    Came up with another question as I sit and look at the car in the air. It will be weeks to get gaskets here and I've decided I don't want to leave the motor hanging by the transmission for that long. Where do you attach a engine hoist/ support to the motor?

  4. #4
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    completely remove the crossmember is probably easier, we did it that way. But it might be struck when bolts are removed. If so, hit from top with a long bar on the cross member like this http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...mpwZw==/?ref=1
    The engine has hooks for a support or hoist, good pics here
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ssing-anything

    One of the is item 10 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_1430
    1 is in front, the other at the rear of the engine.
    Last edited by shogun; 12-15-2018 at 10:29 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    coquitlam,BC Canada
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    91 850i, & 87 924S
    Thanks Shogun those were the pictures I was looking for. I was reading your reply sitting under the car so I took both steering box bolts out and loosened the cross member ones. Left side drops under engine weight, right may take some persuading. Couple of R side bolts are very rusted, hope the dowel isn't. I had just loosened the upper pan and I am amazed the "gasket" kept any oil in (feels like paint chips). Waayyyyy overdue.
    Tomorrow I'll fab a engine support, put the stand under the transmission and I should be good to remove it all.

  6. #6
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    Had a 1991 BMW 850

    In for a Penny

    I dropped both crossmembers along with all of the steering gear. Took the opportunity to replace every front end piece. I would drop the steering box unless it is bone dry and get the seal kit and reseal it. You can also replace the crush washers that go to the hoses.

    You have to drop the subframe to get to the back bolt that runs north and south The other one is easy once you drop all the steering gear. Or hard if you have to go over the front to get to the top to hold it still.

  7. #7
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    The dowel pins of the cross member usually rust a bit and stick, so the cross member needs some hits from the top to get lose, here you see the details where the pins are https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/31111139662/
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  8. #8
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    On the hoist it was easy to remove the cross member and it gave good access to clean the grime off. It did take hits on a 2x4 to free the R side. The horizontal bolt on the steering box was fairly simple; I held the nut with a piece of coat hanger twisted around it to start then got a open end on it. This might be hard without the hoist as you need to get on to just the right angle to see and tighten. Maybe would have been a bit easier to do with the lower pan off but I had already put it on to keep dirt out as I cleaned.
    I was checking the repair manual for idler arm torque and it says 32 21 3AZ, which I assume is a page or procedure number, but where? If I tighten as tight as I think it should be the arm seems to lock.
    https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/721en/

  9. #9
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    here all tightening torques from the E32 for the front axle and steering parts, incl. the idler arm, same for the E31 http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-vorderachse.htm
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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