530i radiator failure question

[BAM3]

Hello all!
2003 530i cooling system was refreshed in 2013 at 80,000 miles. Radiator (Behr), expansion tank, water pump, thermostat, hoses were all replaced.

Car now has 126,000 miles on it. I noticed coolant on the ground yesterday and got a low coolant light on start up. I jacked the car up and the only possible leak I could find was on the driver's side where the metal meets the plastic on the radiator.....see picture.

I filled up the reservoir and let the car get back up to temp. Of course, nothing leaking. Is it safe to assume the radiator is toast?

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[mxchris727]

My mother's E93 had a similar leak on a recently dealer-replaced radiator where the metal and plastic is molded together. My guess it was a bad casting. I would replace it because her car drove fine with the on and off leak, but one day exploded in a parking lot and left her stranded. You also don't want to run the risk of introducing air into the system and cause an overheat.

[1gr8e39]

Any modern e39 radiator unfortunately is just bound to fail. The plastic end tanks expand and contract every time the car is driven and they just tend to be garbage and fail. After 2 failures on recent rads, I just sourced an all aluminum old school rad and had it re cored. They do suck. The aftermarket does offer fairly inexpensive options that are much better than the OE Units. Be glad it lasted the 46k Miles that’s a full life for these modern factory replacements. Bmw radiators are on a similar scale to dog years. Don’t sprain your brain trying to understand why. Best of luck


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[BAM3]

Any modern e39 radiator unfortunately is just bound to fail. The plastic end tanks expand and contract every time the car is driven and they just tend to be garbage and fail. After 2 failures on recent rads, I just sourced an all aluminum old school rad and had it re cored. They do suck. The aftermarket does offer fairly inexpensive options that are much better than the OE Units. Be glad it lasted the 46k Miles that’s a full life for these modern factory replacements. Bmw radiators are on a similar scale to dog years. Don’t sprain your brain trying to understand why. Best of luck


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Any recommendations on a decent aftermarket unit that won't break the bank? I have a mishimoto on my E36. Not sure of the go to brands for E39

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[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Any modern e39 radiator unfortunately is just bound to fail. The plastic end tanks expand and contract every time the car is driven and they just tend to be garbage and fail. After 2 failures on recent rads, I just sourced an all aluminum old school rad and had it re cored. They do suck. The aftermarket does offer fairly inexpensive options that are much better than the OE Units. Be glad it lasted the 46k Miles that’s a full life for these modern factory replacements. Bmw radiators are on a similar scale to dog years. Don’t sprain your brain trying to understand why. Best of luck


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Well Goddamn! Look what just crawled out of the compost heap! Where’ve you been man?

[makenzie71]

Any recommendations on a decent aftermarket unit that won't break the bank? I have a mishimoto on my E36. Not sure of the go to brands for E39

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Won’t be poplular, but i’m about to install one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19-X-27-NEW...72.m2749.l2649

I threw one on my E36 328i after someone drive a Dodge Ram through it...ran great for nearly 100k, and was still running great for theenxt owner last i saw it.

[1gr8e39]

Well Goddamn! Look what just crawled out of the compost heap! Where’ve you been man?

Hey buuuuuuuddy. I’ll start another thread to catch up.
OP I would not do as the gentleman above me did and just measure a rough measurement, make sure your hoses are on the correct side top and bottom and order a cheap aluminum eBay rad. Not much room under the hood for “massaging” and so just buy a no namer replacement. It’ll be a third the cost of a name brand so paying someone to fab a couple end tank will still come in half of what a good full alloy unit costs. In the meantime you can JB weld the entire crease where it’s leaking and should hold up a bit longer. Do you have a Stant pressure tester? If not borrow one from Oreillys and pump the system up to 20 or so PSI and find the leak. Make sure it’s dry and not cold and Jb weld the heck out of it to last until the new one comes from China
Here
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F264040283054
Cheap with free shipping. When it shows, take it up to your local welding or machine shop and have them weld on some aluminum end tanks. Likely it’ll add another $100 or so so the cost but it’ll last. Then stab that one in your car knowing it won’t come apart for no reason. Good luck


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[cnn]

I have a 1998 528i with 170K miles.

The rad in my 1998 528i is Nissens.
I installed The Nissens in May 2006 at 90K miles.
I am now at almost 13y/80K miles later, bone-dry.

Autohausaz.com sells it the Nissens for $138:

https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c...tor?s=d&page=1

[BAM3]

I have a 1998 528i with 170K miles.

The rad in my 1998 528i is Nissens.
I installed The Nissens in May 2006 at 90K miles.
I am now at almost 13y/80K miles later, bone-dry.

Autohausaz.com sells it the Nissens for $138:

https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c...tor?s=d&page=1

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